Repetier problem with x, y movement in corexy printer

Hi,

I have uploaded the last dev. version of repetier, i found an very strange problem:
moving in x or y, the motor make the movement and then the y motor simply do not stop.
installed the stable version and the problem do not happens..

my configuration file:
Configuration.h

Do i have something wrongly configured or is an nasty bug

Edit: Found the problem, i have put an lcd in the configuration file and no lcd connected to the board..

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2015 07:07PM by filipeCampos.

Hello.
I have core xy, on arduino 2580, ramps 1,4, DRV8825( avg. 1,2 -1,3A set up) in 1/32 mode, engine 1'8 deg (1,7A), 20 teeth pulley and gt2 belt.
In theory the steps on axis x and y should be 160/mm.
I have used printrun to send move commands +10/+100.
When i set up to higher value i can't move axis more then 20mm.
If I set up 1/16 then max movement is sometimes 72mm.
I have already placed the a4988 with 1/16 set up and it's the same. I have used other ramps and it's the same. (All 5x a4988 and ramps - different set)
There is any restrictions due to the movement at that configuration? Maybe I miss it.
Also what I have noticed, if I'm taking fast movement on x or y axis from controller, after few turns one by one it show me move aprox. 280mm, and the movement according even this 72mm/or something, is not equal.
It's possible to take a look on this?
Thanks.

I have search on web for similar configuration, to test kinematics. I have found version for Marlin and Repetier of same printer. When I have uploaded both of them Marlin was moving 100:100 OK, Repetier had same problem 100:38.
[www.thingiverse.com]
Maybe that can help to find what could I change in my Repetier.
When I use repetier host +50mm i get aprox. +20mm.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2015 06:17PM by j.fabianski.

Hi,

I have checked your configuration.h file and found some possible problems:
1)The step/mm of your x and y motor is set to 500, if you have an 20T pulley, motor 1.8º and 1/32 steppers them is must be 320. If your are using 1/16 steppers set to 160.
2)The z axis was an max speed travel of 2mm/s, this is to slow...
3) you have configured 6 endstop, do you have them installed in your printer?
4) Heated bed was the heater pin was "digital pin 11", almost sure is not correct.. normally is heater pin 1
5) you have 2 extruder in your printer?
6) Are you using an GLCD? is an very bad combination to use an ramps and GLCD for an corexy printer. In the past i have this setup an lots of speed problem. The ramps do not have the necessary computation power to drive corretly the printer.
The best is to disconect the lcd or use an lcd 20x4. In the future you can consider to upgrade to an 32 bit board (duet, radds, smoothieboard, etc..)

good Luke with your printer

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 05:34AM by filipeCampos.

Hello.
Thanks for fast take a look on this.
AD 1. I was testing different values, I know it should 80/160/320.
AD 2. I will increase it maybe to 4 or 5, but I have m8 drive.
AD 3. I have only 3 end stops at minimum
AD 4. pin is correct, I have 5V relay controlled by servo pin
AD 5. Yes I have 2
AD 6 I'm using full graphic controller, maybe i will change to smaller in that case.

I will try to implement this changes and see if have movement 100:100 as marlin.

hi,

3) if you only have 3 min endstop, them remove from your configuration the max endstop. Not sure if you have used my configuration files was base, but i my case i have 6 endstop.
6) for the lcd, you can remove the animation, it help a little...

Can you explain what is movement 100:38 and 100:100? still do not understand what is your problem with the movements.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 08:47AM by filipeCampos.

The 100:100 (software movement - steering : real move of axis measured on printer).
I will try to also remove animations.

I have switch off animations, corrected steps to 320 on XY, and removed max end stops.
Software 100mm: 10mm reality. It seams it's going only 10%

I'm sure this is software issue, because after many tries to exclude hardware, I have used different software to double check( [github.com] Configuration_Overall.h) on same electronic and it works in XY ok.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 09:39AM by j.fabianski.

If you have enabled EEprom settings check that these settings (in Repetier) are the same as you are bootloading with.
EEprom is overruling default settings if enabled.

so... when you say your problem on repetier you have and problem 100:38, you send an command to move 10cm and the printer only move 3,8cm?
This is the problem reported on the point number 1, you must set for x and y the steps/mm to 320 (1/32 steppers) or 160 (1/16 steppers). This value are different for marlin and repetier firmware, in repetier you must multiply by 2 the steps/mm.

example for the 1/32 steppers:
Marlin: x=160 y=160
repetier: x=320 y=320

example for the 1/16 steppers:
Marlin: x=80 y=80
repetier: x=160 y=160

And very important was justcurious indicate, you must change the eeprom from 1 to 2 or vice-versa. If you do not do this change, when uploading to firmware to the ramps it will not change the value.

Yes, that it
I have disassemble eprom and it goes according to software.
By the way how to clean old values by formatting from arduino? or switch to eprom2?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 09:53AM by j.fabianski.

You simply switch the eprrom value (1 or 2) every time you make an modification on the firmware.
But if you are using repetier firmware, you can do this "on the fly". Connect ramps board to your computer and using repetier server you can modify directly all these configurations without the need to compile and upload the firmware. Octoprint was an nice plugin that allow to do the same.

It appears you are trying marlin and repetier firmware, you must decide by yourself what you prefer.
But for me i consider repetier is a lot better, the performance is a little superior, more easy to configure, very good support of the user called "repetier" and lots of nice functionality.
But both repetier and marlin have rock solid performance and reliability.

I curious, what printer do you have? can you send some photos?

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 10:15AM by filipeCampos.

When I decide to build my second printer, (first Prusa I3-marlin) I get thru different designs and firmware.
I decided to rather go for repetier acc. functionality and the abilities of software as you mention above. The core XY was new for me, different then configuration of I3.
I still need to go thru the calibration process and as usual it will take small wile but it's almost finished.

Some photos:
[clip2net.com]
[clip2net.com]
[clip2net.com]
[clip2net.com]

wow.. really nice printer... You have done an great job.

lots of nice upgrades: mini power switch, led light, the metal panels, big bed, big lcd, etc.. look like to be a great printer.
The panels are made of what type metal? how do you have them cut?

Still missing the fan? if you want to print pla this fan is very important.

You are using metal bearings, they do the job but make a lot of noise and vibrations. I have them in my printer at first, but upgraded to an plastic ones (igus). these igus bearing are far better and not very expensive. They have the exact same dimension, is an direct upgrade.
Other nice upgrades you can make is to install dampers one the x and y motors, they reduce the vibration and noise a lot.
You can add to the feats something soft to reduce the noise and vibrations to the table.

With a so nice printer you must install an 32 bit board... You gain print quality, speed and regular movements.

This print is your design?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 11:07AM by filipeCampos.

Prototype of this was a printer which I made like maker bot,(after consideration it takes a lot of space on laying position), but according to upgrades possibility and installation issues i decided to go for typical frame system.
The printer is made from aluminium extrusion 20x20, all bolted plates and bed are aluminium. Usually 2mm, bed 6mm. Silicone heater 450w 220V.
I used some plastics from design on web, to not draw them from scratch, but I have modified the general dimensions, designed dual extruder wagon, cooling and some z bracket.
The CoreXY is typical system, no need of modifications according to functionality.
Plates I have ordered cut as rectangles and make hole pattern manually.
The printer frame I was starting as main it must be solid, because this generates errors after calibration.
I already have trapezoidal screws for z drive and Bluetooth modules, but this after calibration.
The idea of plastic bearings and dumpers is very good, I need to take a look.
When I'm 100% satisfied I will think of 32bit but this later, first I need to have solid basis.
About PLA cooling, I have on I3, when I make a part for cooling, I have left additional flow area, hope it's ok, if not I will make some distributor and connect to free wires at wagon.


[clip2net.com] - nozzle with additional space (I will check it's enough for cooling PLA)
[clip2net.com]

About the 32 bit board...

I have build my corexy printer using an ramps 1.4 board and overall it works.
After some time, decided to buy an 32 bit board because i have problems of micro stop when my full graphic lcd was connected to the ramps. All my prints have little blobs because of this microstops and the external walls was not very good. After more testing i decided to complete disconnect the lcd from the ramps and only print from the SD card reader. This have give me the best result and i have good results.
I receive and installed my radds board, after making my first print with the new board i noticed the result are like night to day. The board have made an big improvement in the overall print quality, this improvement was much superior i was expecting.

Most people think wrongly this 32 bit board are only useful to deltas printer or if you want to print fast. The main vantage you gain and i was not expecting is the speed and movement constant of the print.

Resuming all this talk: if the goal of building your printer is to make an good printing machine, them an 32 bit board is a must. With an ramps board you never get the full potential of your printer. The igus bearing or dampers are nice to have but will not make any difference in the print quality, the board will make a big one.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2015 07:03AM by filipeCampos.