How to get Nylon to stick to a printplate?

Hi all,
i would like to make more use of Nylon, but so far i don't have any luck in getting it to stick to any print surface i have available.
What i tried so far:
Glas
Glas + PVA Glue
Glas + 3Dlac (Sprayglue like hairspray)
PEI Sheet
Steel
Steel + 3DLac
Ultem foil
0.4mm FR4 sheet
All tried with heatbed temperatures between 50°C and 110°C.
None of these work. Some glue solutions held for a few minutes but never until the end of a print and even the FR4, for which i had high hopes, gave up after only 3 layers.
All of this of course without any cooling and in a closed chamber.
Any ideas?

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

Have you seen this thread over in Duet-forum?
It's about a wet sanded Polycarbonate sheet that has astounding results with Acetal-POM and other filaments.

BTW: Is the FR4 plate sanded?

I did not try to sand the FR4, since i have two plates i'll give it a try.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

I sanded the FR4 surface in several steps from grit 400 down to 80. I get extreme stickyness on small parts of the print, so much that layer delamination happens when i try to remove the part, and nearly no adhesion on most others. Either way this is no success
Any more ideas?

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

higher plate temperature?

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I use 100°C and since parts of the print are sticking very well i don't think this is it.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

If parts of the print are sticking very well and others are not, then your issue might be in the flatness of your bed and not the material.

What type of bed are you using and how do you level / adjust it?

It is pretty much perfect flat, i adjusted it with a dial indicator to less than 1/20 mm in unevenenss in the worst places. All other prints stick super evenly so i am very certain that missing flatness is not a problem.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

... could be differences in extruding/fusing parameters like: compressing force, temperature, cooldown time, ...

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Viktor
--------
Aufruf zum Projekt "Müll-freie Meere" - [reprap.org] -- Deutsche Facebook-Gruppe - [www.facebook.com]

Call for the project "garbage-free seas" - [reprap.org]

If it's glass it may not be heating up evenly.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

No, i use my magnet setup for all but glas, it has the most even heat disribution i ever had.
You are rght in that the glas setup wouldn't be nearly as evenly heated.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

Maybe this? I think my printer has this for a bed and after "seasoning" it for a while, it seems to work.

[www.mcmaster.com]


Mcmaster seems to have a good selection of size and thickness at a reasonable price.

I copied this from an Ebay ad for nylon filament:

taulman3D has some of the most interesting filaments for engineering use. Taulman nylon filaments can be used for medical, casting and functional prototyping applications. taulman 645 is a very high strength, low friction material, ideal for moving gears and other mechanical uses. This filament also has a high chemical resistance. All Taulman filaments are made in the U.S.


Check to insure that your printer is capable of printing at 242C to 248C as this is a requirement for most nylons.


Notes:
1. 645 will not print/stick to glass or aluminum print tables. The best table material for a new user is a flat piece of unfinished poplar wood or blue painters tape. These are at all hobby stores or home depots. For perfect adhesion, please use garolite (LE) available at McMaster Carr.


2. 645's bonding is best at a true 245C.

I tried garolite a while back and the results were similar to what i have now with FR4. Partialy no adhesion and partialy so high that the bottom layers are ripped off on removal of the printed part.
Somehow there seems to be no middle ground with Nylon.
As for Taulman, i stopped using their filaments after i had so many bad batches where the filament was oval and practically unprintable.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

Gluestick, 60°C heatbed, 260°C nozzle and a first layer printing speed of 20mm/s has worked great for me. For thin walled items touching the plate you can't go without a raft, but with those settings and taulman 910 I haven't had anymore problems.