Need help in Bowden for Slic3r

I've been having issues with setting up slicer for bowden drive and the current printer would be the tevo tarantula single extruder type.

i tried some of these settings

infill before perimeters on and off
avoid crossing perimeters on


speed as follows
perimeters 50 and 60
infill 40 and 60

extrusion width for infill 0.6 and 0.8mm

printer nozzle 0.4mm

retraction setting
length 5mm
speed 45mm/s
extra length 0.5mm
minimum travel after retraction 2mm
retract on layer change off

Here is the result [share.pho.to] and the model is from here [www.thingiverse.com]

Another would be the infills inside is kind of stringy and if i compare it with my direct drive, the infills were great and pretty much solid and I'm attaching my slic3r config bundle and the profile would be the fast bowden quality, default abs buildtak and tevo tarantula, everything else please just ignore them

I'm new to the bowden drive setup and slicer settings, any helps would be greatly appreciated

Hello,

I would try to slow down the infill, and see if it ends up stronger. I would also slightly reduce the retraction amount, by a couple of mm. If infill still doesn't look right, try increasing temp just a little.

okay, i'm going to try with retraction at 3mm, infill at 30mm/s, perimeters at 60mm/s

Results are here, the finishing are still the same and during observation of printing the infills, they're pretty consistent and good except reaching the eye height there, the infill thread started to lose a little bit for a while.

Retraction at 3mm produces stringing and blobs between the body and tail.

The head are still the same, unable to close the gap properly.

Got any ideas on this one?

I also going to print this model on my direct drive printer as well with my default print setting to see how well it fare.

you can reduce strings by increasing travel speed, would try making the infill extrusions wider so it prints fewer of them and puts down more filament

One thing I've noticed on my CoreXY printers that use the Bowden tube. The tube for the filament needs to be stiff between the motor and the hotend. Try and make it as short as possible without restricting the travel. If its too floppy, it'll be very ruberbandy and might require a lot of retraction. For instance, on my 200x200 CoreXY with a very short Bowden tube I use 3mm retraction. On my 300x300 CoreXY it still uses a long bowden tube (as I haven't cut it down yet) and it uses 10mm of retraction. On the long tube, I can see the retraction actually lift the bowden tube up in the air. On the shorter tube machine, I don't see any flex in my bowden tube during retraction.

If your retraction is too long with a stiff bowden tube, you'll end up with gaps and holes in your print, or even missing sections on short extrusion lengths. I experienced this myself when printing the Marvin keychain before I cut my retraction down to 3mm as it would not print the top half of his head or the keyring section due to too much retraction.

So it might be worth making sure your bowden tube is cut to size and not too long.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2016 05:11PM by PDBeal.

I printed mine last night, and the finish were significantly better on my direct drive, although with 0.2, it almost closes the gap while 0.1 at the head starting 47mm, still does better than bowden but not better than 0.2mm

About the teflon tube there, the hotend supplied with the kit here is like e3d's cyclop/chimera mashed with e3d lite 6 where the teflon tube will go into the heater block on the same level with the heater cartridge. both the hot end and the extrude got pneumatic lock thingy there for the teflon so the teflon tube didn't get slip away. I forgot to say that at lower speed printing, the head were done better, the feed rate were around 60% that time upon reaching the mouth of the charmander