Alcohol and hairspray questions

So let me ask a few questions that may seem dumb, but I'm curious.

What is the difference between ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol? I don't need the chemical breakdown, but I was cleaning the bed with ethyl and never had any problems with prints not sticking, I ran out and started using isopropyl, and it's acting like I smeared the glass with oil. Didn't even attempt to stick. It took five restarts, cleaning the bed each time, before it stuck. Coincidence? Or does isopropyl have something in it that won't allow the print to stick?

This all leads me to my next question. Since I did experience stick issues, I've decided to try hairspray to see if that helps. Question is, what kind? Or does it matter? And do you apply it before or after the bed is hot? Or does it matter?

Thanks for any feedback,
Scott

I just used suave extra hold and it works great... I've applied it both with the hearted off and on and it seems to work either way...

I

What percent isopropyl alcohol? I use 91 percent with no problem.

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Qdeathstar
I just used suave extra hold and it works great... I've applied it both with the hearted off and on and it seems to work either way...

I

Great, thanks for the info. I just got back from the store with some. I'll try it on my next print.

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Putzer
What percent isopropyl alcohol? I use 91 percent with no problem.

Same. 91%. Must have been something else. The only thing I can think of is maybe a drop of oil dripped off of one of the x axis rods onto the glass. Oh well, the part printing now seems to be holding ok so far.

Isopropyl alcohol is very propular in drug labs, so what you get in the shops is usually "contaminated" with things like aloe vera juice, perfumes or skin moisturisers - all in oil form.
Pure isopropyl alcohol can (at least here in AU) only be obtained through a special order at the pharmacy and for 100ml there I can get 4liters of methylated spirit at the hardware shop.

For all those having trouble getting the bed queeky clean:
My grandmother showed me how to clean windows - that was long before the times of special glass cleaners, wipers and sponges....
In a 5L bucket place a glass of methylated spirit and a glass of clear ammonia (don't use cloudy ammonia as it contains soap!).
Mix well and use a lint free cloth (or these a microfiber one) to clean the glass.
First just wet the glass, next round work the dirt out.
While still wet use newpaper pages (not the glossy stuff!) to polish the glass dry.

I use the above for my windows and my print bed when it is really filthy and never had any problems

Translation to English: methylated spirit == 95% ethyl alcohol + 5% methyl alcohol

Just use vodka. Preferrably Rehorst Vodka

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

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the_digital_dentist
Translation to English: methylated spirit == 95% ethyl alcohol + 5% methyl alcohol

Just use vodka. Preferrably Rehorst Vodka

No wonder vodka gives me a shocking headache, if it contains 5% methyl alcohol!

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Follow my Mendel Prusa build here: [julianh72.blogspot.com]

I use the same alcohol and the cheapest hairspray I could find. When you apply the hairspray, hold a sheet of paper up to prevent the spray from hitting the X rods and gumming up the bearings. Also, turn off the printer so the hairspray isn't sucked into the fans and heat sink. Learned that last one the hard way..... I use a borosilicate tempered plate I got from Amazon. PLA sticks REALLY good with heated bed yet pops off once bed is cold. That's what is the only aggravating part > waiting for it to cool so I can print the next thing.

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tjnamtiw
That's what is the only aggravating part > waiting for it to cool so I can print the next thing.

I have 2 glass plates so that when a print finishes I remove the plate, replace it by another one, and start printing right away. No need to use borosilicate glass if you have an aluminium heat spreader between the heater and the glass - ordinary float glass is fine, and cheap.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42

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tjnamtiw
That's what is the only aggravating part > waiting for it to cool so I can print the next thing.

I have 2 glass plates so that when a print finishes I remove the plate, replace it by another one, and start printing right away. No need to use borosilicate glass if you have an aluminium heat spreader between the heater and the glass - ordinary float glass is fine, and cheap.

Very good idea! My glass is also tempered so it is much less fragile than ordinary glass. I'll just wait until the 'boss' is ordering something from Amazon and slip in another plate.