How to test Hot-End after broken thermistor.
Posted by kappa
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How to test Hot-End after broken thermistor. September 02, 2015 12:26PM |
Hi to all,
I mount a sanguinolu V 1.3 and I heard (and quite saw) a crack on the printing head while I was printing.
I found the thermistor completely brocken, so I tried to understand whitch one.
I'm not sure avout, but I saw a little of red on the two side of the broken parts of thermistor,
so I bought this one.
I tried to start printing after mounting new thermistor, but I receive this error on Repetier-Host (v1.0.6 because of xp SO limits for newer versions):
After some M999 i read many errors, most of all from 0 to 20, but never solved by restarting.
I read many forums about: "Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !",
but I really don't understand how to test my Rep-Rap Hot-End parts.
- I tested the thermistor wires and they gives: 4,6V and 90 Kohm (both: board and thermistor terminals)
- I receive a constant value of temperature (4°C)
- also after many tries of M999, nothing changes.
So I would be able to understand if:
I tested also a new resistor and other new thermistor, but they gived the same results.
Please, help me.
tank you.
The most important important thing is how can I prove what is broken or unsetted...
I mount a sanguinolu V 1.3 and I heard (and quite saw) a crack on the printing head while I was printing.
I found the thermistor completely brocken, so I tried to understand whitch one.
I'm not sure avout, but I saw a little of red on the two side of the broken parts of thermistor,
so I bought this one.
I tried to start printing after mounting new thermistor, but I receive this error on Repetier-Host (v1.0.6 because of xp SO limits for newer versions):
18:01:38.859 : OpenGL version:1.1.0 18:01:38.859 : OpenGL extensions:GL_WIN_swap_hint GL_EXT_bgra GL_EXT_paletted_texture 18:01:38.859 : OpenGL renderer:GDI Generic 18:01:38.859 : Fast VBOs for rendering not supported. Using slower default method. 18:01:47.765 : start 18:01:47.765 : echo: External Reset 18:01:47.765 : Marlin 1.0.0 18:01:47.765 : echo: Last Updated: Sep 18 2013 16:01:54 | Author: (none, default config) 18:01:47.765 : Compiled: Sep 18 2013 18:01:47.765 : echo: Free Memory: 1322 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 18:01:47.765 : echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded 18:01:48.765 : start 18:01:48.765 : echo:Marlin 1.0.0 18:01:48.765 : echo: Last Updated: Sep 18 2013 16:01:54 | Author: (none, default config) 18:01:48.765 : Compiled: Sep 18 2013 18:01:48.765 : echo: Free Memory: 1322 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 18:01:48.765 : echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded 18:01:50.062 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:[www.mendel-parts.com] PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 18:01:50.109 : Error:0 18:01:50.109 : : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered ! 18:01:50.109 : Errorrinter stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) 18:01:50.109 : echo:Active Extruder: 0 18:01:50.187 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:[www.mendel-parts.com] PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 18:01:50.218 : echo:Active Extruder: 0 18:01:50.296 : echo:Active Extruder: 0 18:01:50.359 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
After some M999 i read many errors, most of all from 0 to 20, but never solved by restarting.
I read many forums about: "Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !",
but I really don't understand how to test my Rep-Rap Hot-End parts.
- I tested the thermistor wires and they gives: 4,6V and 90 Kohm (both: board and thermistor terminals)
- I receive a constant value of temperature (4°C)
- also after many tries of M999, nothing changes.
So I would be able to understand if:
- i bought a similar thermistor but, beeing not exactly the same as before, I shoud calibrate the new sensor (in this case I ask you how..)
- I wired my hot end in wrong pins, so the extruder as reconized as off (i wired the resistor on 1°(negative) and 3°(positive) pins on the left side as shown here)
- I broked also the resistor (in this case I would understand how can I check it)
- I broked the board (I think not, because the software reconizes it, but when I test voltage on resistor Hot-End pins, I receive 0v.. I think it because the printer stop it for safety after not receiving °T. value).
I tested also a new resistor and other new thermistor, but they gived the same results.
Please, help me.
tank you.
The most important important thing is how can I prove what is broken or unsetted...
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Re: How to test Hot-End after broken thermistor. September 02, 2015 02:22PM |
You've bought an axial thermistor (wires at both ends). It's better to buy one with radial wiring (wires at the same side). The difficulty with thermistors is, unless you know exactly the brand and make with a matching datasheet with a lookup table what resistance corresponds with what temperature, you'll need a temperature reference, a DVM with a thermocouple for example. You can then measure in 10 degrees increments what the resistance is to build up a lookup table for the sensor.
It would be much simpler to order a thermistor from the same source where you got the hotend. It's a drop-in replacement so no adjustments are required.
The other possibility, if your board supports it, is to buy a thermo couple and thermo couple board. The board contains a chip that converts the thermo couple signal to a micro controller compatible signal including compensation. The end result is a sensor that's accurate within at least 2 degrees, and doesn't need calibrating. The advantage is that it can run at higher temperatures, allowing you to print different kinds of filament like Nylon (I run mine at 280 degrees, which is in the danger zone for thermistors). An all metal hotend is recommended!
This is the thermistor I'm talking about, the product includes glass fiber insulation. Be very careful though, the thermistor wires are very fragile, best to order a couple.
Thermistor
This is an example of a thermo couple:
K type Thermo Couple
And the converter board:
External thermo couple board
I got the above thermocouple and board and it works very well. I checked it with two other thermocouples connected to a DVM and the temperatures matched within 2 degrees. Another advantage is that a thermo couple is much less fragile and better fits into the E3D V6 heater block. I've crushed a couple glass bead thermistors, and when I managed to fit it in, it shorted the wires. I could've used kapton tape and stuck it to the outside of the block but the maximum temperature will be too low for nylon. So no more thermistors for me
YMMV.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 02:25PM by imqqmi.
It would be much simpler to order a thermistor from the same source where you got the hotend. It's a drop-in replacement so no adjustments are required.
The other possibility, if your board supports it, is to buy a thermo couple and thermo couple board. The board contains a chip that converts the thermo couple signal to a micro controller compatible signal including compensation. The end result is a sensor that's accurate within at least 2 degrees, and doesn't need calibrating. The advantage is that it can run at higher temperatures, allowing you to print different kinds of filament like Nylon (I run mine at 280 degrees, which is in the danger zone for thermistors). An all metal hotend is recommended!
This is the thermistor I'm talking about, the product includes glass fiber insulation. Be very careful though, the thermistor wires are very fragile, best to order a couple.
Thermistor
This is an example of a thermo couple:
K type Thermo Couple
And the converter board:
External thermo couple board
I got the above thermocouple and board and it works very well. I checked it with two other thermocouples connected to a DVM and the temperatures matched within 2 degrees. Another advantage is that a thermo couple is much less fragile and better fits into the E3D V6 heater block. I've crushed a couple glass bead thermistors, and when I managed to fit it in, it shorted the wires. I could've used kapton tape and stuck it to the outside of the block but the maximum temperature will be too low for nylon. So no more thermistors for me
YMMV.Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 02:25PM by imqqmi.
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