loads of problems with my prusa i3

Hello fourm, so I finally got my new ramps board in and drivers and completely redid my wiring, and yet im still having the same problems. My y-axis works flawlessly. Works without a problem.. my x axis moves on every other command and only travels about 4 inches then wont move anymore. My z axis moves a little but for the most part makes a loud ringing noise until I turn the printer off. Can someone please help me with these problems! Heck ill pay you 50$ send my printer to you and you fix it if you that would even work because ive been working on this pronter for 3 months now with very little progress.. somone please help me get this printing..

Did you adjusted the trim pods on the drivers?
Did you checked that no switches shows triggered?
Which feed rates are set in marlin?
What size threaded rod are you using?
Are all the steppers wired the same way? Color by color the x and z steppers looks the same as your y one?
Can you post some pictures of your printer? Take pictures of your board too.

Do an air print, and while printing adjust the drivers pods go all the way CW untill your steppers whine and back it up slowly untill works smooth (use only a plastic screw driver)

If we cannot get it right from here, you can send it to me with a return label and I will work with it for free. Just be sure to package it right, I don't want to be blamed for any broken part.

Ok thanks! Im taking pictures right now. I really appreciate the help!

I had to soder all of the wires because the people I bought this kit from for some reason never send me the connections, all my wiring is correct I know that for a fact, I did work with the drovers and did exactly what you said. And still nadda, also on the x axis the plastic modled parts broke on me while putting the rods in so I had to do some homemade adjusting like you see in the pic. Also the xaxis parts that move it up and down became stripped so I had to superglue some nuts in so it ables the x axis to move up and down along the threaded rods. This is a brand new ramps board along with brand new set of drivers (just got them 3 days ago) and im still running into similar problems. Ill copy & paste my coding in a sec.. if you need more pictures let me know.

This is my configuration h. file


#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configurtion file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//User specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during startup.
//Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made
//to this build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " 8-15-13 " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(FOLGER TECH, 8 i3 Prusa Config)" //Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000
//#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8 = Teensylu
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 270
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 245
#define BED_MAXTEMP 200

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define PID_MAX 256 // limits current to nozzle; 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
// is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
#define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255 //limit for the integral term
#define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
#define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
#define DEFAULT_Kd 114

// Makergear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same ferquency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you proabaly
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delived to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 256 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 256 // limits duty cycle to bed; 256=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED



//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// corse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignord if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 185
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 50, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.11444921316166,80.06863025450386,4012.841091492777,90} // default steps per unit for ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200*8/3,760*1.1}920
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 500 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console

//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PC
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PC
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 225
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255


#ifdef ULTIPANEL
// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4

#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H

Quote
ggherbaz
Did you adjusted the trim pods on the drivers?
Did you checked that no switches shows triggered?
Which feed rates are set in marlin?
What size threaded rod are you using?
Are all the steppers wired the same way? Color by color the x and z steppers looks the same as your y one?
Can you post some pictures of your printer? Take pictures of your board too.

Do an air print, and while printing adjust the drivers pods go all the way CW untill your steppers whine and back it up slowly untill works smooth (use only a plastic screw driver)

For some reason it wont let me post pics on here, can I email them to you?

Quote
theinsainepops
I had to soder all of the wires because the people I bought this kit from for some reason never send me the connections, all my wiring is correct I know that for a fact

While soldering the wires to the board, what components did you have attached to the board?
What kind of soldering iron did you use?

Well, I know it's kinda silly question if you're a pro electronics solderer, but I don't know that

The fact that you solder the cables to the board makes me wonder if something get overheated or any link broken, I'm not saying that you don't know how to solder, it's just that can happen to anyone. Having the pins so close to each other they might be touching or creating interference, did you used heat shrink tubing?

Please email me to ggherbaz@yahoo.com your photos and please take good detailed ones of the parts you had to fix and board.

Your configuration h. Looks right so I'm guessing more of hardware issue than any othe thing.

Quote
ggherbaz
The fact that you solder the cables to the board makes me wonder if something get overheated or any link broken, I'm not saying that you don't know how to solder, it's just that can happen to anyone. Having the pins so close to each other they might be touching or creating interference, did you used heat shrink tubing?

Please email me to ggherbaz@yahoo.com your photos and please take good detailed ones of the parts you had to fix and board.

Your configuration h. Looks right so I'm guessing more of hardware issue than any othe thing.

yeah I did use heat shrink tubing, thats actually exactly what I was afraid of. & ok im sending pics to your email.

Did you ever receive the email?

Yes I did, and I think its best for you to re order some of the damaged parts (they are of really poor quality) and will affect your printing capabilities, and get some connectors from eBay or Aliexpress and re wire your printer. It looks like you did a good solder job and covered most of the soldered connections with heat shrink tubing (assume you are changing stuff around for testing), but it will be too hard from just few photos to find out if any of the wiring get switched around or if you got any cold solder or a broken link.

After seeing the photos I can understand your frustration, it looks like the printer is falling apart before you can get it printing.

OK, before I tell you to send me the printer, I want you to do few things:

1 steppers models
2 wiring order from motor to board.
3 start an "air print" and while printing I want you to turn your drivers pods clockwise all the way until the steppers whine, then back it up 1/4 turn do this for x and z.
4 move your axis out of homing position and in pronterface do M119 and be sure no switches shown triggered.

Let me know

Quote
ggherbaz
Yes I did, and I think its best for you to re order some of the damaged parts (they are of really poor quality) and will affect your printing capabilities, and get some connectors from eBay or Aliexpress and re wire your printer. It looks like you did a good solder job and covered most of the soldered connections with heat shrink tubing (assume you are changing stuff around for testing), but it will be too hard from just few photos to find out if any of the wiring get switched around or if you got any cold solder or a broken link.

After seeing the photos I can understand your frustration, it looks like the printer is falling apart before you can get it printing.

OK, before I tell you to send me the printer, I want you to do few things:

1 steppers models
2 wiring order from motor to board.
3 start an "air print" and while printing I want you to turn your drivers pods clockwise all the way until the steppers whine, then back it up 1/4 turn do this for x and z.
4 move your axis out of homing position and in pronterface do M119 and be sure no switches shown triggered.

Let me know

What do you mean by Stepper models?, and alright ill send pics of the wiring order to your email. And is it possible you can give me a link for a air print if possible? and also im sending pics of what i got through pronterface when i did the m119 test. And about the plastic parts i asked for them many times and they have yet to reply to im thinking about just buying some off ebay or somthing.. I really just want this printer to print!!

With an air print I meant just print any file you want without putting filament in the extruder, so the printer will do all the movements without any mess from the plastic, as it tries to print adjust all the way up your trim pods on the drivers until you can hear them whining.

Need the model of the steppers to see their amperage consumption and coils order.

Read all the reviews of the vendor you will get the parts from before buying. But wait and see if we can get it to work, you might be able to print the new parts, they will not be perfect at first but you will be able to do some iterations of your parts until you get them perfect.

Alright, and im trying to do this air print but everytime I out it through pronterface it doesn't do anything

Ok if that doesn't work do a G1 X150 F600 (be sure X is in home position) if works at that speed and does move then increase F by 200 each time until it fails.

After you find out the failing speed, go to the previous speed and been fast but careful adjust the trim pod on the driver clockwise every more and more until the motor fail with a whining noise the back it up some once you have it doing it right, go up to the speed that was failing and verify that is working properly.

Do the same for Z but start with really small speeds like F20~50 and increas until you can move it without problems at F200.

OH my god, thank you. This thing was driving me nuts on how freakin loud the Y-axis was. I thought it was something in the carriage that was rattling.