Taulman Nylon Bridge Large Parts Warping

Hello,

I am trying to print some very large parts with Taulman Nylon Bridge for a customer. These parts are around 12" x 8" x 2" thick. I cannot seem to get rid of warping though. I am fairly new to using Nylon.

I run a Hexagon hot end at 245 C, heated bed at 110 C using Elmers glue stick on a glass print surface. I have an enclosure, that's gets to around 35 C ambient due to the bed heat. I have used a 5mm without much luck.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to get non warped parts that are this big?

I am currently testing a print using a Garolite print surface. The warping seems less overall but the Garolilte is very difficult to get a good first layer on since it's not perfectly flat.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!
James

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/29/2014 01:41AM by MrRocketman.

My experience with a Grolite like bed (Tufnol) was that once it sticks it is very difficult to get the printed part off without damaging it.
The first thing i would do regarding warp is increasing the chamber temperature to 50°C or more.

---

[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

I wasted almost a full roll of Taulman bridge filament trying to print a part for a customer, I tried all possible bed materials (Garolite, glass, cardboard, etc.) tried also to print it with rafts, skirts, and all other alternatives, I have a enclosed chamber and tried with different temperatures from 60 to 100 degrees, after failing miserably I refunded the money and talked to the customer and explained the problems, I finally was able to print the part, but was heavily modified in the bottom part to "work around " the warping and required plenty of post processing to get it right.
Nylon is a beautiful material, but some designs are simply impossible to print with it without modifications.
If the customer don't mind, very low infill percentage helps a lot, used the minimum amount of perimeters as possible, escape from the plague of "square" designs.
What i did: "not easy to do " you need to be very sufficient at cad software, curb upward the bottom of the part by 1 or 2% depending on the part (or measure your current warping and use it in the opposite direction) and add "cylindrical" parts to every corner at least 3 layers high. Once printed the natural bowing of the part will make it straight at the bottom and then cut and sand the cylinders (hot wire even better) .
If the part it's simple enough, you might get it done just with the flaps in the corners, but if complex then be ready for serious work.
Good luck.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 10/29/2014 08:31AM by ggherbaz.

Save timee andmoney use a gluestick and apply it to the surface.
ithelped me. Although I never used nylon it may be a cheap alt