advice on printing this spool spindle

Hi,
Ive been trying to print the spool spindle for this filament holder.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Ive printed the hub with no problem
Im now trying to print the spindle but the thin part at the tip as it rests on the bed will not stay stuck to the bed.
Everything else ive tried to print in the last few days has stuck to the bed without any problem.
I think its because it has a small area at the tip in contact with the bed and when the printer gets too the overhanging part
of the profile it pushes it and it rocks a little breaking the fix to the bed.
You can see the tip tapers with a partial round profile.

Ive tried with and without a brim but its not enough to hold it from moving.
Ive tried slowing the print down as well.

Im using a prusa i2 ive built myself.
Ive levelled the bed and set the offset with a piece of paper.
Its 3mm glass mirror.
Its been printing really well as ive got it more set up and ive had really good be adhesion.
Cant shift the prints till the bed has cooled a lot.

Im running marlin and slicing with Cura
Printing in Pla
0.1mm layer
Ive tried hot end temps of 190c and 200c with bed temps from 60c to 80c
The fan is off for the first few layers then on at 50% for the rest.
Its cooling both the print and the j-head. Will be using seperate fans soon for each job when i print a fan holder.
Ive tried now at least 5 times. The best got a good hour into the print before it broke away.

Has anyone got any advice for me?

Thanks
Gordon

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/20/2014 06:14PM by gordonendersby.

Should i be looking at support structures?

will they also anchor overhangs so they dont curl up?

Thanks

Gordon

There's often a problem with layers curling up in designs like the snap-fit end of the spindle. Once it curls up the hot end can come in contact with the extruded plastic and knock it loose. Putting a support structure in would help.

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[3DKarma.com] - suppliers of quality, affordable 3D printer kits and filament for the UK market.

Thanks for confirming that ill give it a go.
Ive been finding out that my .3mm nozzle will be great for detail once ive got it tuned.
But it takes soooo looonggg to print.

Gordon

Last time I tried a .3mm nozzle I had endless problems with filament starvation. Hope it works well for you.

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[3DKarma.com] - suppliers of quality, affordable 3D printer kits and filament for the UK market.

Ive been wondrring if theres a way to swap out the smaller nozzle for a larger one for bigger prints.
Its a j-head with one piece heater block and nozzle.
Some kind of quick release extruder and carriage would be useful.
Another modification to think about later.

Ive got other problems at the moment.
Looks like the arduino mega in my ramps 1.4 controller is failing now.
That or all my stepper controllers are failing at the same time.

Got to wait for some bits to be delivered before i can make any more progress.
So much for building on a budget.
But i wouldnt be doing it if it wss easy.

Gordon

Here's a quick release extruder set-up by Richrap..

[www.thingiverse.com]

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Waitaki 3D Printer

My hotend has one of these plugs attached to it [www.amazon.com] . Two screws slide out the plate and pop in a new print head.

Thanks Mike

Interesting, but you have to swap out the motor with the whole extruder setup.
Mind you being able to swap in a milling head for pcb production appeals.
I think it would be more efficient to swap out the J-head itself for changes in filament size or tip size.

Cablec onnectors of the correct rating would be a good idea. Also handed and locking.
Ive got pc power supply molex connectors in my parts bin, both male and female that would be up to the job except for locking.

Plenty to think about and read up on till my parts arrive.

Gordon