Printing problem

I have problem with my new printer RepRap, [www.youtube.com]

Looks like the bed isn't close enough to your nozel. Try adjusting your Z-home upwards.

We can't see what is happening at the business end. Lower the camera to bed height.

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Waitaki 3D Printer

[youtu.be] this is video.

Set your Z home to .1mm between the tip and bed.
Use a normal sheet of paper to gauge the .1mm distance. You should feel a light drag when pulled.

ive managed to set the distance on 1mm but it is still doing the same thing. Any other thoughts ?

I have this but I don't know where to put them..

0.1mm*
1mm will be far too far.
Check your slicer for Z-offset settings and make sure it is 0.

Hello I check my slicer for Z-offset and it is 0.. Any other thoughts ?

Its hard to see from the vid but is the extruder extruding any filiment? When you calibrated your printer, did your extruder put out filiment? When you told it to extrude 20mm of filiment did it feed 20mm or whatever you told it to during setup? The bed height dose look to be a bit too high, but it seems to me that there is not much filiment coming out.
As for the springs they are so you can change how much tension is being applyed by the bering against the filiment against the drive grear to feed in the filiment into the extruder.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2014 04:52PM by romon.

Did you do what Floyd said? 0.1mm between nozzle and bed, not 1mm. Do the adjustment when the bed and nozzle are up or close to temp.
Also, as Romon said, is the extruder actually pumping out any plastic?

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Waitaki 3D Printer

Mm no actually the extruder is not extruding anything at all.. but reading your post made me realized i havent actually done the basic calibration for the extruder and if im honest i dont know how to. I guess i need your help again.
Thanks guys

Ok what kind of printer do you have? From your vid I think you have some type of the reprap mendel? Is it a kit or self build. Need some info about your printer before I/we can help much. But for a start google for whatever type of printer you have and read and read it again then ask for help.

I have heacent reprap prusa mendel 3dp02 and couldnt find anything for it on google..I bought it as DIY assembly kit and so far everything is working except the extruder wont extrude .
Thanks

Ok will need the value you have set in Marlin or whatever firmware your using for your hotend thermistor,

\hi, apologies for the delay. Im currently using Slicer and the value ive set is 230. Would you possibly give me the calibration settings for the extruder?
Thank you

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2014 08:56AM by spamcho.

I have not been able to find the manual that came with your printer, but when you bought your printer did all the software come on a setup disk?
In your firmware, Sprinter, Marlin ect., not sli3er or pronterface, what value do you have your hotend theristor setting set at?
When you are trying to use your printer in pronterface when you turn on your hotend dose it show the correct temp?
Did this printer come with any setup instructions, did it take you threw the calibration and setup?
Need some more info about your setup, link to a manual, list of software are you using.
Need more info.

Hello, all the software did come on a CD, but there are not programs such as Marlin or Sprinter ect..There are just Pronterface, slicer, Repetier-host..The temp is being shown in pronterface and it's 230. The instructionsfor my printer took me through the calibration, but just for the axes, not a single word for calibrating the extruder, and since I'm newbie, I didn't realize thats really important.

Ok have you got your printer to print yet? Have you set the bed to hotend gap to the right hight, print bed level? What software are you using to setup the hardware part of your
printer, that you use to set the type of hardware you have, your steps for your motors ect? I use Marlin, what do you use for your firmware? marlin, sprinter, teacup ect to setup and calibrate your printer.

This question was posted a long time ago and Im sure youve got your answer, but if not (Ive seen hundreds of unanswered questions on forums) those look to be the springs that fit inside the plastic blocks that rise and fall on the threaded rods and elevate/lower the horizontal X-Axis double rods with the Extruder mounted on them. You fit the threaded rods by screwing a nut onto each one then pop the spring into the printed plastic blocks, raise the blocks as far as you can (awkward as you're trying to do sides at the same time..) then screw another nut underneath and shift that up as far as it can go, all the while compressing the spring up as hard as reasonably tightens things up, then when the lower nut can no longer be tightened any more vertically up the threaded rod, ie. it hits the hexagonal plastic hole and can no longer be turned, that's when you release the block so each side now sits with an upper and lower nut and one of your springs fully encapsulated within the block, so when the motors turn, they rotate the threaded rods together and the railed bed rises and falls equally. It's very important to get the bed set level and to have those parallel rails perfectly level to it whether the plate is forwards close to you or away. Since the rails are FIXED and can't be tilted (if built correctly) it's the heated plate you adjust using the four corner screws to make it's surface completely parallel to the extruder passing back and forth overhead.