PLA was printing almost perfect but PETG is giving me some trouble, and I have some electrical interference from a rewiring.

I decided to make a D-BOT 3D printer:

[www.thingiverse.com]

for use in my workshop, and wanted to put the Ord Bot that was in my workshop somewhere were I could watch it during long prints, so I moved my Ord Bot into my living area, the Ord Bot has its own enclosure with ventilation and speed controlled vent fan, I also decided to switch to PETG, and to clean up the wiring on the Ord Bot, before the move it was working fine with PLA.

I decided to add an external mosfet board like this one:

[reprapchampion.com]

for the heatbed thinking that this might make the Ord Bot more fire safe and take some of the load off of the Ramps board, but the rewiring and external mosfet seems to have caused problems with interference, I was thinking it was the mosfet board but an SSR still causes the electrical interference.

The electrical interference caused USB connection problems and even problems printing from SD cards, so I decided to try snap on ferrite beads, I now have ferrite beads on the stepper motor wires, hotbed power wire, hotend power wire, USB, 120v power, and LCD, I also have (+) AND (-) wire pairs twisted in an effort to cut down on electrical interference, I had the wire pairs twisted on the stepper motors before I did the recent rewiring.

The ferrite beads help enough that I can print, but I still get a few resends with G-code, maybe 2 or 3 per print, also the ferrite bead that is on the hotbed power wire is singing, the ferrite bead is vibrating inside of it's plastic cover and acting like a speaker making a high pitch fast modem like sound.

The problem I an having with PETG is kinda strange to me, I am not sure if its electrical interference, or just that I am ignorant of how to properly print PETG.

Larger prints seen to print somewhat well, but I have random blobs that seem to fall off the hotend that are sometimes burnt in appearance, small printed parts seem to look melted or look like they are printed way to hot, but lowering the temperature does not help.

Things I have tried:

I calibrated my extruder.
I tried printing slow, down to 30mm/s.
I tried printing fast, up to 100mm/s.
I tried printing hot, up to 255.
I tried printing cool, down to 235.
I tried under extruding, at 95%.
I tried different levels of infill, from 35% to 100%, with no change in print quality.
I tried printing hot at 255, 35% infill, under extrude at 95% and 100mm/s print speed, quality is a small bit better.
I tried printing cool at 235, 35% infill, under extrude at 95% and 30mm/s print speed, quality is a small bit worse.
I adjusted my retraction and speeds up and down, but seems to have little affect on print quality as long as retraction is happening.
I have disabled and removed the part cooling fan that I used for PLA.
I have tried using a 120mm fan blowing over the heatbed during the pring, all this did was make the printed part curl up at its edges.
I ran PID tuning on both the hotend and hotbed.
I made sure my hotend was secure and not moving during the print.
I tightened up the v-wheels that my 3D printer uses trying to remove any play in the X, Y, and Z rails, but made sure everything still moves freely.
I made sure nothing is binding, and I used braided sleeving to cover heatbed and hotend wires, the braided sleeving seems to move easier that split loom or spiral wire wrap.
I made sure my heatbed is level, and my hotend starts at 0.2mm to 0.15mm above my heatbed, I use a feeler gauge to check nozzle height.
I have some G-code to purge and wipe filiment before printing.
I use a soft brass wire brush to clean the hot nozzle before and after prints.


The print settings for PETG that seem to work for large parts on my Ord Bot are:

Temperature: 240 --- I left this setting in about the middle of what seems to be working
Print Speed: 50mm/s --- I left this setting in about the middle of what seems to be working
Bed Temperature: 75 --- PETG is sticking almost to well to the PEI sheet
Retraction Speed: 100mm/s --- Not sure on this - but my belt driven extruder seems to work at this speed without slipping
Retraction Distance: 3.5mm --- Not sure on this - I might try increasing this
Z hop when retracting: 0.2mm --- This seems to help but not fix all the problems
Enable Combing: All --- This seems to help but not fix all the problems

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as PETG is concerned, you can try slowing down the print a bit (I print it at 30mm/sec max and get good results) and see if it helps. Also for small parts, PETG retains heat for a while, so you either need active cooling of the part or you need to print the small parts together with something larger. When printing small parts without cooling, I can often deform them easily by hand when the print just finishes.

All in all, PETG is a great material once you have it dialed in and has very nice mechanical properties.

Quote
anvoice
As far as PETG is concerned, you can try slowing down the print a bit (I print it at 30mm/sec max and get good results) and see if it helps. Also for small parts, PETG retains heat for a while, so you either need active cooling of the part or you need to print the small parts together with something larger. When printing small parts without cooling, I can often deform them easily by hand when the print just finishes.

All in all, PETG is a great material once you have it dialed in and has very nice mechanical properties.

I may try the active cooling again, the last time I tried it with PETG it just made the edges of the part curl up but I was using a 120mm 44 CFM fan a few inches away from the heatbed, I guess I could try a smaller fan mounted near the hotend like I had for PLA.


Here is what I am getting with the small parts.

[imgur.com]

But the large parts look pretty good.

[imgur.com]

Here are some images of the 3D Printer and its wiring.

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

I was able to quiet the snap on ferrite beads by using some nylon cable ties on them.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Your small parts definitely look to be suffering from insufficiently cooled PETG. The nozzle drags the print around, warping it before it gets a chance to cool. Try printing it a bit slower, or printing several of these at the same time, or using a smaller fan to cool the part. 40mm sounds about right for that sort of job.

Unfortunately I'm not able to help much with the interference problem though.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2017 03:25AM by anvoice.

I tried some indirect cooling by aiming the 120mm fan at the 3D printer's enclosure wall in such a way that some of the air bounces back to the heatbed, like this:

[imgur.com]

and it seamed to help.

I also printed this as a test:

[www.thingiverse.com]

and I am thinking of trying it for cooling along with a variable resistor for fan speed control, this is what the print looked like:

[imgur.com]

and

[imgur.com]


This is a image of the mosfet in place of the SSR, I am getting the same amount of interference with both the mosfet and SSR, but the mosfet seems to run much cooler and does not heat up my power supply as much so I will stick with the mosfet for now.

[imgur.com]

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I added a part cooling fan, I used a SPST mini toggle switch to turn the fan on/off and a SPDT mini switch to switch between full power and power controlled with a variable resistor, the bracket was made from a computer slot cover, here is what that looks like:

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

and I printed that small part again

[imgur.com]

The small part looks pretty good, no major flaws, I had the part cooling fan switched to on, with the fan power set just a small amount above were the fan would stall and stop moving, I turned the variable resistor down until the fan stops, then back up till just slightly over were the fan starts spinning again, the fan needs to run fast enough that its not over heating, but not to fast for the PETG.

The part cooling vent that I printed does not fit very well on my Ord Bot, the X axis carriage stops it from moving in all the way, but it does stay in place and it works.

Here are my settings in Cura:

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I keep having having random issues with PETG, I am getting blobs of PETG dropping off the nozzle and messing up the printed parts, and yesterday I had a slight amount of Y axis shifting, but today I cant make the Y axis get shifted layers even when I try to saw off one of the blobs during the parts being printed.

I have even tried reducing the extrusion flow to 95%

Here are some images of the print problems:

This is the dirty nozzle:

[imgur.com]

The parts finished, and don’t look to bad, but later when removing them from the heatbed one of them broke, extrusion flow was 98% and fan was running, but very slow :

[imgur.com]

This is what it has been doing today, I get a huge blob that falls off the nozzle and sticks to the printed part, and that sometimes knocks that part lose, extrusion flow was 95% and fan was running, but very slow :

[imgur.com]

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was able to keep the nozzle clean and stop the blobs by doing three things:

(1) Fine tuning the retraction, I was able to keep the nozzle clean but have messy parts by turning retraction to 0mm, but I wanted clean parts, so I slowly turned the retraction up from 0mm in 0.5mm steps, 2mm seemed to work best.

(2) Going slow seems to help, I have it set at 30mm/s, I will try to up the speed later.

(3) Printing hotter also seemed to help, I went up to 260.

(*) I also have a part cooling fan running as slow as it can.

Here are what my parts look like now:

[imgur.com]

and my nozzle after that print:

[imgur.com]

And my Cura Settings:

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Today the electrical interference problem caused a few failed prints, but the printer was working just fine yesterday, it even failed when printing from the SD card, I have USB ground isolator and some tinned copper metal braided sleeving on order, I plan to rewire the 3D printer using the copper metal braided sleeving on the main 12v power wires, and maybe covering more wires as needed.

I also tried using an old ATX power supply, but I still had the problems, I normally use this cheap power supply:

12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w

[smile.amazon.com]

and I also tried a Mean Well LRS-350-12 12V 29A power supply, and had the same problems with this power supply, that leaves the Ramps board, I will try switching it out tomorrow with a extra I have and see what happens.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I did some rewiring today, I was able to drill a hole in the MakerSlide aluminium extrusion that my ORD bot is made from and route the 12v power wire inside the MakerSlide aluminium extrusion, I was then able to have all of the power wires on one side of the printer, and all of the stepper and endstop wires on the other side of the 3D printer.

I did some checking with a volt meter and the entire 3D printer looks well grounded and my power supply is attached to the metal frame of my 3D printer, and every axis except X is grounded, the X axis is not grounded because its attached with plastic rollers, but I get low resistance all the way back to the power plug anywhere except the the X axis when I check on my 3D printer.

I tried connecting the 3D printer to USB, and the 3D printer's power supply bogged down and the USB cable got warm to the touch, I believe that means I have a ground loop, but I have the 3D printer and computer powered with the same outlet, so I am not sure what’s going on.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I got the USB ground isolator in today and tried it out, I was not able to connect to my 3D printer, but I was able to connect the USB ground isolator to thumb drives and other devices and they worked, so I believe I fried the USB port on my Re-ARM controller, I have been printing with the SD Card and it works well now without problems, I believe that putting the power wires all on one side and putting them inside the MakerSlide aluminium extrusion have solved the interference problem.

I got looking at Re-ARM PDF pin-out found over here:

[panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]

and it seams that there are serial pins on the Re-ARM board, and I was able to connect to my printer using the (UART) pins, I used a 3.3V FTDI USB-to-TTL Serial Cable and the USB ground isolator, this will not however allow access to the micro SD card that has the firmware on it, but you can use software like Cura to print with over USB.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote
will1384
I was able to keep the nozzle clean and stop the blobs by doing three things:

(1) Fine tuning the retraction, I was able to keep the nozzle clean but have messy parts by turning retraction to 0mm, but I wanted clean parts, so I slowly turned the retraction up from 0mm in 0.5mm steps, 2mm seemed to work best.

(2) Going slow seems to help, I have it set at 30mm/s, I will try to up the speed later.

(3) Printing hotter also seemed to help, I went up to 260.

(*) I also have a part cooling fan running as slow as it can.

Here are what my parts look like now:

[imgur.com]

and my nozzle after that print:

[imgur.com]

And my Cura Settings:

[imgur.com]

[imgur.com]

I found that on larger prints the fan made for more strings, so I now leave the fan off on large prints, I also found that I had a slight amount of warp on larger prints with the heat bed at 75, this might be from a vent fan that I have inside at the top of the 3D printer's enclosure, so now my heat bed is set to 85.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The PETG glass transition temperature is about 78C, so you may want to be careful with those parts until they cool: they'll be quite soft due to the bed heat otherwise.

Quote
anvoice
The PETG glass transition temperature is about 78C, so you may want to be careful with those parts until they cool: they'll be quite soft due to the bed heat otherwise.

I have been printing parts for the D-Bot 3D printer I am planning on building, and I set most of the parts to 100% infill, I have been removing the parts just a short time after printing and it seems easier to remove the parts when they are still a little warm, the PEI sheet sticks to PETG so well its a struggle to remove the printed parts, I have not yet printed a PETG part with an infill lower than 35% to 40% but the parts seemed very strong even when a little warm.

I have had some warping at the corners of larger parts, but the warping always seems to be on one side near the door of the 3D printer's enclosure, so I am thinking its the enclosure's vent fan sucking air through a crack around the enclosure's door, I turned the vent fan down a bit and the heatbed up a small amount in an attempt to fix this.

Another problem I have is with the 3D printer's temperature sensors, even with the proper settings for my heatbed in my firmware, and doing the PID autotune, my heatbed is still not the correct temperature, I have a infra-red thermometer that shows my heatbed is off by 10 to 15 degrees or more, 85 set in Cura shows up as 67 on my infra-red thermometer, and I also know that the infra-red thermometer is not 100% correct so its a guessing game on what the real temperature is, and my hotend is the same way.

I guess I need to look into better thermistors or temperature sensors, my hotend temperature sensor is a Semitec 104gt-2, and the heatbed temperature sensor is a NTC 3950.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had a sudden attack of interference again, not sure if I moved or bumped the 3D printer the wrong way and a wire got closer to another wire and caused the interference problem or what, and in my testing to find the problem I decided to try a few different power supplies, I borrowed a power supply from my dad, it was a Mean Well LRS-350-12 power supply, and suddenly the printer printed without problems, I checked the voltage and I found that my dad had set the power supply to 13.8v for some equipment he was using, so I adjusted it back down to 12v and adjusted it so that even when heating both the bed and hot end it would still be 12v, and did another print, this time the print failed, so I adjusted it back up to 13v, and the print worked.

Well that's strange, the printer now only works trouble free at 13v and above, maybe a part is slowly going bad or something.

I decided to keep the printer at 13v and see what happens, I also got thinking about the interference problem and remembered that the original design of the Ord Bot had a lot of the wires inside of the MakerSlide aluminium extrusion and the rest of the wires were in long springs, like long door springs, so I got some long door springs and modified then to work on my Ord bot, like this:

You can see one of the metal springs attached to the X-Axis carriage in this image:
[reprap.org]

And here is what I did:

Front view
[imgur.com]

Top view
[imgur.com]

Side view 1
[imgur.com]

Side view 2
[imgur.com]

Back view
[imgur.com]


And I am posting my Cura settings and Smoothieware config.txt files, I have been wondering if Smoothieware's watchdog settings could also be part of the problem as the printer often stops because Smoothieware's watchdog thinks it detects a fault, however why does this not happen at 13v?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2017 12:58AM by will1384.

---

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3D Printer = ORD bot ---- [reprap.org]
Controller = Re-ARM with RAMPS ---- [panucattdevices.freshdesk.com]
LCD = RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Drivers = DRV8825 ---- [reprap.org]
Stepper Motors = KL17H248-15-4A ---- [www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]
Extruder = Bowden type 00str00der ---- [reprap.org]
HotEnd = E3D v6 ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Nozzle and Block = E3D v6 Volcano with 0.6mm nozzle ---- [wiki.e3d-online.com]
Heatbed = MK2b PCB Heatbed ---- [reprap.org]
Heatbed Insulation = 1/4-Inch thick cork tile ---- [www.quartet.com]
Heatbed Insulation Adhesive = Silicone RTV 6500 ---- [www.silco-inc.com]
Print Surface = Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet ---- [gizmodorks.com]
Print Surface Adhesive = Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Sheets 8" x 8" ---- [gizmodorks.com]
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