RepRap host + Mega2560+Quadstepper(sparkfun)+stepper(from old epson)

Hellow!
I want to build RepRap, but first I want to deal with electronics. I have Mega2560+Quadstepper(sparkfun) and stepper motor from an old printer epson. (Just for experimenting )
I connected it all together, but RepRap host does not want to connect to the Arduino. I think the problem is not in the rest of the electronics. I loaded Tonokip firmware in Arduino. In firmware i configured the type of motherboard (3), using of mega2560 , port speed , in host i config port#

BUT host does not send moving (step) signals ... why???? ,
И если можно по русски!!!

The RepRap host is quite quirky. I recommend you try out pronterface (or repsnapper if pronterface fails).
Good luck and keep us posted!

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-Nudel
Blog with RepRap Comic

Thank for advise ( I`ve installed pronterface)! As I understand i have to use kliment-Sprinter firmware. So I`ve got last and installed it on mega2560.
Print screens of settings:


- I'm using the right pins?
- i commented....
Print screens of pronterface:

"Printer is now online" - in window
connected to quadstepper
pressing "x+10" button
signal led on quadstepper BLINKING!!!!! (i think its going to work)

Why didn't you just use RAMPS with the Arduino Mega 2560?

firstly I do not have RAMPS
secondly I am interested to understand the principle of mechanics and electronics and do something myself!
So i have made Mega2560+Quadstepper(sparkfun)+stepper(from old epson) to work but it turns only in one direction... "x+10, x+100," and don't turns x-100 - ???

OK. I asked because the Quadsteppers seems like it would end up costing more and taking more time.

If you can only go in one direction, it's probably because the firmware is set for endstops and you don't have one. Or, more correctly, it thinks all the axes are at the endstops because the digital IO pins that it uses to sense the endstops is telling it that it's at the end already. You can enable the software endstop in the firmware towards the end of configuration.h:

//Endstop Settings
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS 1
const bool ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true;
const bool min_software_endstops = true; //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than zero.
const bool max_software_endstops = true;  //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
[/quote]

I have endstops so I don't know exactly how others who don't use their printer. I assume one way is to manually position the nozzle at the lower left corner of the bed and the set the z-height correctly before turning on the electronics.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2011 03:51PM by brnrd.

What you want to do if you're not using endstops is go into the pins.h file and look for the following:

x_min_pin 18

or something like that... change it to something like this:

x_min_pin -1 //18

So comment out the old pin assignment and change it to -1 so the firmware doesn't keep looking for endstops... Make sure your min_software_endstops = true... other than that... in Skeinforge use relative position and you'll be fine.

Big Thanks to brnrd and NathanB, i have made it(motor) turning in both directions!
now i have another question about endstops:
1. what signal gets mega when the axis riches endstop and closes it (logic high or low)/
2. why we need max endstops (as for min i`ve understood)

so i`m interesting what i can print with simple bed and what with heated bed (why to heat it???)

ukrduino Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Big Thanks to brnrd and NathanB, i have made
> it(motor) turning in both directions!
> now i have another question about endstops:
> 1. what signal gets mega when the axis riches
> endstop and closes it (logic high or low)/

You can do it either way but I think for mechanical switches, positive logic is preferred: switch is normally ground and then pulled high when endstop is activated. You want to twist the wires together or use ribbon cable to minimise noise pickup which can give you a false reading. This is changeable in the firmware also.

> 2. why we need max endstops (as for min i`ve
> understood)

Although max endstops are supported in the firmware and most electronics, I don't think many people use this. It's common to only use the min endstops. With the firmware that you're using, you would save some time editing your pins.h file if you use the same pin assignment as RAMPS.

>
> so i`m interesting what i can print with simple
> bed and what with heated bed (why to heat it???)

Without a heated bed, you can print PLA on blue painters tape (3M works). I think acrylic can be used for ABS but I've never done that. With a heated bed, glass is the preferred surface for PLA and Kapton or PET tape is the preferred one for ABS. A heated be gives more consistent result than unheated bed. It also reduces warping. I suggest reading up in the reprap wiki in addition to the forum. Other's blog, like Nophead's is also filled with information. There's also a nice video from Adrian showing how well heated glass works on PLA.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/14/2011 08:09AM by brnrd.