New printbed for the p3steel

After a chunk of glass came with an object that I printed in my glass bed. I decided to
make a printbed from aluminum. Like the design from the_digital_dentist.



Had the linear bearing already more then 15 years.
Ordered the milled cast aluminum in Germany.
An a friend of my milled the bed to side, and milled the bracket for the mounting of the belt attachment.

I use the standard guide rods and bearings.
A silicon header attached with double-side tap.

Next step drilling

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2017 02:42PM by amigob.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Interesting. Do you have a drawing of the assembly?

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I have draw it in Designspark, what is the best way to put it online.



Here a picture of the drawing. in the middle is the bracket to mount the belt attachment.
This bracket will be completely tightened on the left and on the right not.
This is because the bracket will not have the same temperature as the heat-bed.
On the top side is the slider where the linear baring will be attached. I will mill out 3 or 4 mm in the middle
to reduce the bed height.

To make the leveling easy I have tapped the linear bearing only with the first and second tap, not the third.
So the M6 bold firmly fits in the linear bearing without any nut.
I will do this also on the other side, but that part is from ABS. I don't know if that will hold.

I still need to test if I put the mounting hols in the correct place. It is not symmetrical. I want to be able to use the full length 23cm of the bed.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 05:25AM by amigob.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

I'm trying to figure out what you're doing here. Do you have a drawing of the complete assembly? Is the bed going to be heated? Where does the heater go? If I understand the drawing and photo, the two bearing blocks on the lower guide rail have leveling screws in them. What prevents them from rotating around the round guide rail?

Why is the belt clamp so big and heavy?

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

I have a silicon heater 20 by 20 cm that will go directly on the bed. That is why I ( my friend ) milled the beltclamp bracket that completely spans over the heater.
So that I can mount the beldclamp in the ~ middle of the bed, if I would mount it at one or the other end, it would restrict the movement drastically.
In this way I don't have to do any modifications to the rest of the p3steel. Compared to the plate this bracket does not weigh much. And I think it is stiff enough,
but maybe I need to decrease the acceleration/deceleration a bit. :-)

So it is designed to be a drop in solution. I can easaly go back to my old bed if i want.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

It looks like you're going to put leveling screws on the bearing blocks along the lower guide rail. What will prevent the bearing blocks from rotating around the guide rail?

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

That is why I use Big M6 Bolts and 8mm aluminum plate, I can go to M8 if needed.
But I expect it is not needed the length of the levers is not big.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

The first thing that will happen is the screws will tilt as the bearings rotate. It isn't going to be stable. It worked OK in my printer because I used linear guides that were screwed to a plate and couldn't rotate. I wouldn't count on it working with round guide rails.

The most critical aspect of designing the bed support is stability. If it isn't stable you're going to be releveling the bed over and over. You may even have print quality issues if it moves while printing.

You really need some sort of carriage plate to attach the bearings, then stand the bed plate above it on the leveling screws. The carriage plate will prevent the bearings from rotating around the guide rails.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

> The first thing that will happen is the screws will tilt as the bearings rotate.

Don't agree the connection between the M6 bolt and the 8MM plate is very rigid and the bolt can't move.

Lets see. :-)
The blind bracket hols are drilled and tapped. now I need to drill the big M6 hols, Need to get enough confident, that they are in the correct place :-)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 12:02PM by amigob.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

How is it going to be possible to level the bed if the bearings to which the leveling screws are attached can rotate independently around the guide rails? What will the screws push against to raise the bed? I must be missing something...

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

no rotation at all, I will print some higher ones, and then it is very ridge.



I only have a big setback the slider of the linear baring when over the tyrap and all the bearings went over the floor

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 01:21PM by amigob.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

You're going to have a problem. The bearings have to be in line with each other in order to fit on the guide rail and roll smoothly. If you try to adjust the bed level as you have it shown, you'll won't move the bed, you'll move the bearing. If the bed can't pivot on the screw head the bearing will have to rotate on the rail and/or the bearing block will have to flex. There's nothing tying the bearings blocks together except for the guide rails that pass through the bearings. In your design, nothing prevents the bearings from rotating on the guide rail. This is why there is normally a carriage plate tied to all the bearings and leveling screws. It ensures that the bed plate moves when you try to level it and not the other parts which have to be in critical alignment for the whole thing to work.

I made something similar to this work with linear guides, but the bed plate was able to pivot on the screw heads. Even with that I found some print quality issues and eventually put the undercarriage plate back in.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 02:49PM by the_digital_dentist.

---

Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

tomorrow testing. leveling was very easy, just uses the inbus bolts on the top.
I will also changes Repetier that it will do a check, if the bed is still level and if not that it will stop the print.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

I have no adhesion of esun ABS to the kapton sheet,
cleaning it with acetone did change it
squeezing it on also not.
When I spray some 3dlac on it it works, still need to see how good :-)

I thought that ABS would stick directly to a kapton sheet ?

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Mhh stuck to good, kapton brook in the middle of the object.

But object didn't warp, although that I don't have a enclosure, yet

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

I only have one question about the heat chamber, is it a problem if the filament rolls are in the heat chamber.

---

P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder