Building a Kossel: Need advice on final parts

You do realise as well that that TW-04-12-LLZ is 10,52 EUR for only one carriage right? The price for a TW-04-12 with a rail of 600 mm (same length as the Robotdigg ones) is 28,51 EUR. For 3 of those rails with carriage it would be 85,53 EUR already, which is actually more expensive than the Robotdigg ones and with less certainty how they will perform because not a lot of people use them.

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titeuf007
yes it fit i have checked it s not for nothing if i had them on my list!
for carriage it s compatible with 20*15mm that you can find on aliexpress
the size is identical with robodig or hiwin

All the carriage designs I have come across - including the Robotdigg metal carriages with built-in belt tensioners - use 20x20mm fixing centres. The corresponding Hiwin parts are called "long body" carriages. Perhaps Igus has those too.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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Riggi
You do realise as well that that TW-04-12-LLZ is 10,52 EUR for only one carriage right? The price for a TW-04-12 with a rail of 600 mm (same length as the Robotdigg ones) is 28,51 EUR. For 3 of those rails with carriage it would be 85,53 EUR already, which is actually more expensive than the Robotdigg ones and with less certainty how they will perform because not a lot of people use them.

i don t know how you calcule..it s 68usd without shipping cost and duty taxes! you live in belgium so you are pretty sure to have taxes!
[www.robotdigg.com]

you will have perhaps 34usd to paid for shipping cost (i have checked) so almost 100usd without taxes..
lots of people or company use igus rail..you should check a little


dc42: i have checked but i ve found nothing for 20*20mm only 20*15 but you have carriage available for this size it s not a problem i think

I'm already buying quite some parts from Robotdigg (for example the corners, carriages, ...) so the shipping costs will be do-able. I might be able to split the shipping costs partly with a friend of mine if he decides to buy stuff as well for the printer he's planning on building.

Also I've just taken a look at the technical drawings of the carriages, and the holes on the carriages never align with the holes on the metal carriages for open ended belts I was going to use from Robotdigg, even when I compare them to all the other igus carriages available in their T rail guide systems. Maybe I missed an igus rail and carriage that does fit, but it seems like the igus rails and carriages won't fit my Robotdigg metal carriages. I'd have to use 3D printed carriages otherwise, but I think I prefer not to go for plastic ones.

so riggi what did you order?

I haven't ordered the parts yet. Current thing I'm looking into is my power supply, wiring and the screws and nuts I need for the build. When I compare different screw/nut kits for Kossels, or just BOM's in general, I notice that almost everyone has some kind of difference in the amount of screws and nuts they use for their printer. As a result, I'm not sure which screws or nuts and how many of them need myself.

[fr.aliexpress.com]


you should buy this model..
a long review has been made check youtube

I think Thomas Sanladerer built one of these on his live stream tonight on youtube. Still live right now 22:26 GMT 12-02-17.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2017 05:26PM by DjDemonD.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

for the price it has everything you search without brainstorming
you have great build design,large print surface,smoothieboard,etc etc

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titeuf007
for the price it has everything you search without brainstorming
you have great build design,large print surface,smoothieboard,etc etc

It's not a Smoothieboard, it's the MKS closed-source rip-off of the open-source Smoothieboard design.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

From what I can gather it's probably not too bad but you get a cloned hotend, cloned extruder, the mks board, 1.8deg motors. If you want to build your own it's basically a rip off of my printer which I built for about what that cost, but it's better as you can afford 0.9deg motors, genuine e3d gear, duetwifi.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

Yeah I've seen this Tevo Delta printer as well, but there is the price tag though, which is higher than what I'm looking for and just like DJDemonD mentioned, it probably has a clone hotend, extruder, ... which aren't as good as the originals.

Lot of people said clone hotend are not as good... but they never test one. I made the choice to start with a clone to reduce the cost of the machine and then upgrade later, but guess what I dont feel the need to upgrade so far the clone I have give me superb print in PLA,Ngen and TPE I bet you cant tell looking at the final result if a clone print it or a original. I will go as far as saying my clone print better print than most printer with an original I see around in this forum. Ok maybe the overall machine construction help a little bit, but its not the nightmare people think it is.

A clone extruder well that a first, a extruder is not that complex I never consider any extruder as a clone and never will they just different model and even a printed one will do the job alright and will not affect the quality of the print at all if it working and pushing enough filament for your speed.

Buying a clone hotend to start and save money to put it elsewhere like better electronic or rails or magnetic joint will help you get better quality print than getting an original and buying poor electronic or bad RC car joint because you try to cut corner to save money. A hotend is the easiest thing to upgrade later, we cant say that for rails/frame or joint or others parts of the printer.

You are said you are tight on budget so start with good component where it count, get it running and printing THEN upgrade the inferior component later specially the one that dont require a rebuild of the machine/frame. (hotend,extruder,heatbed and electronic are some component you can upgrade easy but I can argue that starting with bad electronic/firmware is not the way to go, some can be very hard to setup and tune to give good result but there nothing wrong starting with a old computer PSU you have laying around then upgrade to a 24V one later or starting without a sensor and do calibration manually with a piece of paper or starting without a heatbed if you dont care much about ABS ( PLA,TPE and even PETG work on blue tape)

I am not one of the people who say cloned hotends are not as good, without trying one. I started off with a cloned v6 hotend and got a years printing out of it. There were a few jams, but it printed fine. I have a cloned volcano on one machine now as I wanted to try the volcano heater block arrangement without spending a lot. However I will buy a genuine e3d volcano as/when the clone gives up. I am always careful to say that clones are a perfectly reasonable way to go, provided you don't always expect "out of the box" reliability and are happy to finish them off properly, which teaches you the principles of how a good hotend works. And I also argue that in my case at least, buying a few clones has resulted in greater sales for e3d now that I prefer to buy genuine.

As for cloned extruders. I am talking about the E3D titan. This is a very good extruder and a real step forwards. Its fairly reasonably priced too at around £45. The Trianglelabs clone which is around £30 might/might not be as good, I've ordered a couple as I want to see how they work and you can buy a y-adaptor to try out twin extruder printing. Sure you can print an extruder - I have some of these as well, and some do nearly as well as the titan, some do not. How many printed extruders are geared at this optimal 3:1 ratio with low-wear, precisely engineered gears, have a fully guided filament path, are very easy to load/swap filaments with and happily run off a pancake stepper saving 200g of mass for delta/corexy and are happy to print flexible filament?

I would always advise people starting out that spending money on a good frame/rails/good electronics is money well spent and that saving money on hotend/extruder etc.. is a reasonable compromise. They can (and probably will) be upgraded later. When you start out £50 for a hotend is too much, once you are printing a lot its not a big spend, to get reliable extrusion, with the minimum of jams/rebuilds.

I started out doing 3D printing on a shoestring, and have also tried spending a lot more money. Both approaches have their merits.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

Yeah I think it's just that I thought it would be quite possible to be able to get the genuine hotends/extruders with my tight budget. I guess I'll take another look at all my parts and see what I'll do next. Thanks for your advice!

If you go for the E3D Lite 6 than you can more easily stay within your budget. If you mostly print PLA, it may be the better choice anyway because it is less likely to clog if you use too much retraction.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].