Swap z probe for hot end

I've tried to search but can't seem to find specific details about how to calibrate like this. Basically, I have a new E3D V6 hotend I'm looking to install. However I can't use it and my z probe together due to the height differences. I see some folks put the z probe in the effector like a hot end to calibrate.

So my question is, When you swap back to the hotend, is it as simple as doing an m306 z0 on a sheet of paper to set the nozzle zero and then start printing?

Thanks, Rob.

Rob,

I am actually design a z probe at the moment that is super accurate and will be lifted by servo built into it. I want to build the servo drive into the z probe so it can be retracted on/off with having to config your mother board to control RC servo's, just essentially flick a switch. The bane of 3d printing is the calibration and bed height, plus the extruder with a bowden setup.

Andrew

Most delta printer users seem to use either my mini IR sensor mounted on the hot end, or force sensitive resistors under the bed supports.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Its all about supply and demand, if there are only two types of z probes for delta printers, then these will be used. If a new design comes out and its far superior to anything else then this might become the standard, even E3D online maybe interested. I have tried both, your mini IR sensor and FSR's under the bed supports.

Andrew

Andornot, I've gone down this path before as well.

Like you I don't like IR sensors, they aren't accurate enough for me, and require a lot of bed preparation to get them (sort of) working.
I don't like nozzle sensing mechanisms, there are a few different types, and all of them are sensitive to a bit of plastic ooze coming out of the nozzle when calibrating. They can also harm your print surface. Many of them are also quite difficult to get working properly, and usually involve some form of 'floating' the bed.

Two links to check out:
1) BLTouch. I have one, it's a great idea, but I found it wasn't accurate enough for me: [www.indiegogo.com]

2) My own zero offset Z sensor. This works amazingly well, I've installed it on two printers, and I've now updated to a 2 gram servo (I haven't updated the thingiverse link yet). Unlike just about all the other Z sensors out there, this one is totally unaffected by effector tilt. This one has accuracy and repeatability of around 0.01mm (yes, really). [www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2016 09:03PM by nebbian.

Nice design Neddian, i see you use an optical sensor to detect the z probe moving. My design uses a pure mechanical break, the accuracy of the one i knocked up in the garage was +/- 0.005mm, i am hoping for nearer +/- 0.001mm or less with proper bushed version.

I will keep you posted when its available.

Andrew

Good stuff, I look forward to seeing what you come up with. There's always room for a better design of Z sensor.

Just clip a endstop/microswitch under the hotend, you need to manually remove it but its super simple and has served me well so far.

The problem with a standard micro switch is the inaccuracies between switching unless you buy an accurate one and they are not cheap. I will post my z probe when it has been fully tested, maybe send out a few for beta testing if anybody is interested.