Welcome! Log In Create A New Profile

Advanced

Zonestar D810B from AliExpress

Posted by frankvdh 
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 09, 2016 08:19AM
Hi guys!

Could some1 send config of D810 for Cura?
I can not print any model. My Extruder freezes at about 1 cm from the bed and does not move while plastic is extruded.
But with test gcode files it starts printing.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 09, 2016 08:25AM
Quote
tidehunter
Hi guys!

Could some1 send config of D810 for Cura?
I can not print any model. My Extruder freezes at about 1 cm from the bed and does not move while plastic is extruded.
But with test gcode files it starts printing.

1- for Cura plugin on Repetier ? or for Cura ?
2- If you're on repetier, do you see the sliced version of the object after pushing the slice button ? (I'm asking because if it don't slice anything, Repetier will only execute "pre-print" code of Cura, which is a homing, starting the hotend close to the bed)
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 09, 2016 09:07AM
I mean for Cura (software)
all necessary settings

update:
I have also download repitier, but I don't know where should I get all settings.
There is no any information in manual.. and I'm new in this.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/09/2016 11:19AM by tidehunter.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 09, 2016 06:19PM
Does it work OK printing from SD card via LCD?

I haven't tried with Cura, but mine works fine with Repetier Host.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 09, 2016 11:14PM
no, from sd card is the same, I tried to make gcode with Cura and Slic3r.
It works only with test gcode files, that is why I think that the problem is in settings.

Could you screen me your printer settings, please?
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 10, 2016 01:24AM
Quote
tidehunter
I mean for Cura (software)
all necessary settings

update:
I have also download repitier, but I don't know where should I get all settings.
There is no any information in manual.. and I'm new in this.

Hi I'm not a Cura user, I'll make some screenshot of my cura plugin on Repetier host configuration after work.

In the mean time I can tell you that :
- You need to setup your printer in Repetier Host like in Cura (speed communication, port etc etc)
- Cura in repetier host is a plugin, so to access Cura configuration you need to go to the right tab called "Slicer" and at the bottom right corner of the BIG button there's a button called "configuration" , there are new tab at the left of the main windows where you can setup Cura. Here the official tutorial with screen shot : [www.repetier.com]

One important thing is, even if it's obvious, Cura plugin works with profile files, each time you modify something don't forget to save this configuration to the current or another profile (the upper part of the Cura modification window) and there, before slicing the object, select the right profile to slice with (there's a combo box bellow the BIG slice button)
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 10, 2016 02:21AM
Thanks a lot for the explanation, also I need all printer setting like Travel Feed Rate, Z-Axis Feed Rate etc.


update:

when I slice the model I get the coordinates with nulls like these:
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000

What do I do wrong?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2016 03:08AM by tidehunter.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 10, 2016 02:01PM
All those 0s are obviously wrong. It's almost as if the scaling is out by some large factor. Make sure that Cura is working in mm, not inches. Can you post your Gcode?

Attached is a Gcode file I generated to print 3DBenchy that worked for me on my D810. I use Slic3r rather than Cura. At the end of the file are the Slic3r settings as comments. If you want to continue with Cura, you should be able to figure out the corresponding Cura settings.
Attachments:
open | download - 3DBenchy G Layer 0.2 Walls 3 Fill 10 Slic3r Delta.gcode.zip (571.8 KB)
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 10, 2016 02:31PM
Quote
tidehunter
Thanks a lot for the explanation, also I need all printer setting like Travel Feed Rate, Z-Axis Feed Rate etc.


update:

when I slice the model I get the coordinates with nulls like these:
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000

What do I do wrong?

"X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 " With that your printer won't move to the middle of the bed at 15 mm smiling smiley defintly something wrong

Here are screenshot of my printer config (in "Connection" / "Port" it certainly be another value due to your computer) , you'll find also my cura preferences called "Delta 1" which is the profile I use most of the time, use the "import" button in Cura configuration to import it

Link to printer and Cura configuration

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2016 02:33PM by Hergonoway.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 11, 2016 12:41PM
Thanks you guys, as I thought my setting were wrong.
It works now but the quality is very bad and for now I'm trying to improve it.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 12, 2016 11:30AM
Quote
Hally
Hi Hergonoway,
The new version effector need some custom components, include:
1. 3 pcs "spring generating"
2. 1 acrylic piece to mount the hotend module
3. 1 metal piece to mount the extruder fan and heater sink.

We will put this upgrade module on the racks of our store in the next week.

Hi Hally,

When are u going to store it?
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 12, 2016 05:02PM
Just a quick thought for Hally...

I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.

People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.

Frank
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 12, 2016 11:54PM
Quote
frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...

I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.

People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.

Frank

personally I''ve changed this system to a printed wheel adjustment below the bed. basically the V shape screw is locked to the hexa threaded spacer with loctite (just the tip of the screw to keep the benefit of the spring movement), there I've printed an adjustment wheel which is place on the hexa spacer and then I change the screw below the acrylic plate to a longer one and block it with a autolock nut. Now I can align the hotend to the tower and easily adjust the bed from below, without moving everything an screw it from above smiling smiley

This method keep the same "possible spring movement" on each tower axis whatever the bed level is.

I'm currently working on an improved version in order to stack a glass plate of the same size or bigger onto the bed.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2016 12:28AM by Hergonoway.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 13, 2016 04:18AM
Quote
Hergonoway
Quote
frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...

I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.

People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.

Frank

personally I''ve changed this system to a printed wheel adjustment below the bed. basically the V shape screw is locked to the hexa threaded spacer with loctite (just the tip of the screw to keep the benefit of the spring movement), there I've printed an adjustment wheel which is place on the hexa spacer and then I change the screw below the acrylic plate to a longer one and block it with a autolock nut. Now I can align the hotend to the tower and easily adjust the bed from below, without moving everything an screw it from above smiling smiley

This method keep the same "possible spring movement" on each tower axis whatever the bed level is.

I'm currently working on an improved version in order to stack a glass plate of the same size or bigger onto the bed.

could you show some pictures, please?
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 14, 2016 07:15AM
Hi guys,

Long time no see.
Sadly my Problem with these Endstops is still there.

For Reference:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,662062,674266#msg-674266

Maybe someone can help.

Regards
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 15, 2016 02:46PM
Given my problems with leveling, I did a bit of reading about Delta geometry.

Summarising:
  • The effector should be horizontal at all times. The horizontalness of the effector is called the "effector stability". Clearly mine isn't horizontal when displaced from the centre. http://forums.reprap.org/addon.php?178,module=embed_images,file_id=78462
  • Each pair of arms should be parallel to make the effector horizontal.
  • The minimum arm angle (when the effector is at the maximum diameter) is important for effector stability, precision and carriage speed. A low angle means that a lot of carriage movement is needed for little effector movement, and decreases effector stability. Generally, 20° is considered a practical minimum angle. (I haven't yet checked what it is in the D810).
  • The "arm space" is important for effector stability. Best stability is obtained with the minimum "offset", with the maximum possible arm space for this offset (minimising b dimension).
  • The position of the hotend is important to minimize the consequence of effector tilt. The nearer that the nozzle is to the effector plane, the less that it will be affected by tilt. However, care should be taken to limit the raising of the center of gravity, to avoid creating dynamic moments.
  • Stiffness of the effector may be important, as is minimizing forces and moments (i.e. minimizing friction and weight).

I now believe that the lack of effector stability in my printer is the real cause of the "bed-leveling" problems. I'll look at the carriages and effector to see if my repairs have made the arms non-parallel,

Looking at the D810 effector, it appears that the arm space could be increased somewhat, so that "b" is about the diameter of an M3 screw head (say 5mm). Since the arms must be parallel, the carriage would need to be redesigned to match.

Improved infill in the effector should make it more rigid, at the expense of increased weight. Possibly a "space-frame" effector could be designed to maximise stiffness and minimize weight.

My plan had been to measure just how far my nozzle was deviating from the bed by printing an effector to mount a dial indicator gauge with the same geometry as the hotend. However, my dial gauge is 55mm in diameter, and placing the tip at the nozzle position would put the dial right in the middle of the effector, where there just isn't room. I think I'll build an effector for my dial gauge so that the tip is as low as possible. I may yet try another effector for the hotend that lifts it a couple of centimetres

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2016 03:08PM by frankvdh.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 15, 2016 03:12PM
I have ordered some small bulls eye spirit levels from Chinese eBay suppliers to help check that the effector remains level.

The most common causes of varying effector tilt are I believe:

1. Bearing spacing at the carriage end of a pair of diagonal rods not the same as the bearing spacing at the effector end.

2. Diagonal rods in a pair not of equal lengths.

3. Play in the joints, coupled with the varying sideways force exerted by the Bowden tube.

4. Carriage rotated slightly about the Z axis, due to warped carriages or unequal wheel spacers if using wheeled carriages.

5. Carriage rotated slightly about the perpendicular axis so that the two bearings are not at the same height.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2016 03:12PM by dc42.

Delta printer calibration calculator, mini IR Z probe, and colour touch screen control panel: [escher3d.com]

Large delta printer, and other 3D printer blog postings: [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]

Full disclosure: I have a financial interest in sales of the Panel Due, Mini IR height sensor, and Duet WiFi/Duet Ethernet.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
June 15, 2016 04:23PM
My print are now very good,

the "b" value is important when you've got big effector, in our case it's a small one so you don't need to care about.

If I can suggest something, here's my personal experience, especially when using auto bed leveling :
- 1 : G or M 131/132S2 is a mandatory step before even manually correcting the flat level of the bed, it will make the effector horizontal to it's X/Y movement.
- 2 : springs on rods must be very close to the effector and the carriages, also rods must be parallels.
- 3 : my 230mm rod length geometry was good (DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD) but the projection value on the bed (ROD_RADIUS) was a bit wrong, so I had a curvature effect. Basically your effector is moving like being on a dome or in a hole instead having a flat movement,it can be tricky and almost impossible to see with naked eyes. Your auto leveling will be totally fu**ed up if you're in this case, trust me, I've been there. So I've made 3 scripts in order to go at 1cm away from each screws toward the center of the bed, at 1cm above the bed, I'll call them "calibration coordinates" ; first I go on each of these 3 calibration coordinates and manually calibrate the bed level where Z = 0 , like carefully with a sheet of paper and of course where Z is the same for each point. Then I go back to the middle and do a Z calibration (Z=0), homing, then I go check these coordination points and carefully reaching Z=0, if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 or the opposite you've got a curvature effect due to bad geometry input. I've observed that if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 you have a dome shape and you need to increase the ROD_RADIUS value, and decrease it if you've got a hole shape (the hot end do'esnt touch the bed at Z=0). I suggest doing 1mm correction at a time, then 0.5 then 0.2. ROD_RADIUS can be directly modified in EEPROM through Repetier, don't need to compile the firmware each time.
- 4 : 3mm aluminium bed is very "non flat" especially when it's hot, a glass bed over it improve the calibration a lot.
- 5 : tower must be parallel and have an angle of 60° to each other, I my case they are parallel and with the right angle, so I can only suggest you to use the "advance calibration delta" tool available on thingiverse to check and do corrections.
- 6 : if you do every thing above, in fact you almost don't need to auto level anymore grinning smiley

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2016 03:02AM by Hergonoway.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 05, 2016 06:43AM
Hi, FYI

if you want to drive your hotbed from the main board after you've set HAVE_HEATED_BED to 1, you have to change HEATED_BED_SENSOR_TYPE from 1 to 4, the temp resistor is 10K (instead of a common 100K)
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 14, 2016 04:33PM
Passing along a bit more of my experience...

1. Retraction should be set to about 8mm. 10mm is too much... that causes the filament to retract back past some kind of 'step' in the hotend, so the subsequent extrusion jams. Less than 5mm results in a lot of stringing.
2. Apart from the above, I've had a couple of hotend jams due to the filament breaking inside the "cone" cavity in the top of the heatsink. Or maybe the filament breaks inside the Bowden tube, and when the break reaches hotend the two parts separate laterally. The filament in the hotend is no longer being pushed, and blocks the hole in the bottom of the cone, so that the pushed filament can't move.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 26, 2016 08:09PM
[www.aliexpress.com]


Hally Zhong
***********************************
Shenzhen Zonestar Innovation Tenchnology Co., Ltd.
E-mail: zonestar@163.com
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 26, 2016 08:11PM
Quote
tidehunter
Quote
Hally
Hi Hergonoway,
The new version effector need some custom components, include:
1. 3 pcs "spring generating"
2. 1 acrylic piece to mount the hotend module
3. 1 metal piece to mount the extruder fan and heater sink.

We will put this upgrade module on the racks of our store in the next week.

Hi Hally,

When are u going to store it?


[www.aliexpress.com]


Hally Zhong
***********************************
Shenzhen Zonestar Innovation Tenchnology Co., Ltd.
E-mail: zonestar@163.com
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 26, 2016 08:18PM
Quote
frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...

I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.

People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.

Frank

Thanks Frank, we will do it later.


Hally Zhong
***********************************
Shenzhen Zonestar Innovation Tenchnology Co., Ltd.
E-mail: zonestar@163.com
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
July 27, 2016 03:12AM
Quote
Hally
Quote
frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...

I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.

People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.

Frank

Thanks Frank, we will do it later.

+1

Its a real issue. Drilling new holes in the plastic piece won't help if you turn the bed around 60 because holes will be over the 2020 structure (I tried)

Personnaly I went with a clamp system so I was able to add a more flat surface over the bed. The holes of the bed are aligned with the trench in the 2020 (more or less 1 mm offset) which gave me the opportunity to easily keep the spring system of the bed.

Hope it helped. (Sorry for the pics they are upside down for no reason)





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2016 03:14AM by Hergonoway.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 04, 2016 10:59AM
Quote
Hally

Hi Hergonoway,
The new version effector need some custom components, include:
1. 3 pcs "spring generating"
2. 1 acrylic piece to mount the hotend module
3. 1 metal piece to mount the extruder fan and heater sink.

We will put this upgrade module on the racks of our store in the next week.

Hi Hally,

Why din't u make the set only for new components??
I don't think anyone wants to spend 20USD + delievery for the parts they already have.

By the way could you send the models of acrilic parts, please?
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 04, 2016 11:03AM
Hergonoway,

Looks like great. Could you let me know pls where did u get models and other parts of the clamp system and the glass?

and sry, but I didn't get what is 2020 structure? (I'm new with this)
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 04, 2016 02:25PM
Hi tidehunter,

2020 is the name of the aluminium profile.

Quote

I don't think anyone wants to spend 20USD + delievery for the parts they already have.

I think the idea is that these are redesigned parts... i.e. parts that we don't already have.

I'd also like to see Hergonoway's designs for the bed attachment.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 05, 2016 08:53AM
Quote
frankvdh


I think the idea is that these are redesigned parts... i.e. parts that we don't already have.

Hi frankvdh,

but most of the kit's parts we have or it could be print.



There are only few really necessary parts: acrilic part and fastening

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2016 08:54AM by tidehunter.
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 06, 2016 09:14AM
guys, I found interesting Integrated Fan Duct [www.thingiverse.com]
I printed and installed it on our printer.




In fact I fastened it only on 1 screw, because the model should be modified little bit.

[www.thingiverse.com]
Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
August 06, 2016 10:11AM
Quote
tidehunter
Hergonoway,

Looks like great. Could you let me know pls where did u get models and other parts of the clamp system and the glass?

and sry, but I didn't get what is 2020 structure? (I'm new with this)

Hi,

the 2020 are the aluminium bars, because they're 20mm*20mm. Found the Borosilicate Glass on Ebay, I took a 250mm diameter one.
I've designed myself the clamp system because the D810 has a custom sized base triangle (290mm of 2020 for the triangle wich is uncommon) and I wanted to keep the spring system in a way were the bed is clamp to the glass without using glue tape or else. There's no good designed on thingiverse to do the job for this size with a 250mm glass on top of the bed.

Still prototyping but here what's look like :




Also I've made a "clip on" support for both fan, no screws, just print and clip on the hotend. :



Green parts are existing part, blue are the printed, red are remove from blue part before printing (it's to keep holes visible when I work)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2016 10:14AM by Hergonoway.
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.

Click here to login