Zonestar D810B from AliExpress
Posted by frankvdh
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress June 10, 2016 05:31PM |
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tidehunter
Thanks a lot for the explanation, also I need all printer setting like Travel Feed Rate, Z-Axis Feed Rate etc.
update:
when I slice the model I get the coordinates with nulls like these:
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:576.7647
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.2235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.465 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.4235
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
12:29:24.505 : X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 E:577.8000
What do I do wrong?
"X:-0.00 Y:-0.01 Z:15.000 " With that your printer won't move to the middle of the bed at 15 mm
defintly something wrongHere are screenshot of my printer config (in "Connection" / "Port" it certainly be another value due to your computer) , you'll find also my cura preferences called "Delta 1" which is the profile I use most of the time, use the "import" button in Cura configuration to import it
Link to printer and Cura configuration
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2016 05:33PM by Hergonoway.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress June 13, 2016 02:54AM |
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frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...
I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.
People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.
Frank
personally I''ve changed this system to a printed wheel adjustment below the bed. basically the V shape screw is locked to the hexa threaded spacer with loctite (just the tip of the screw to keep the benefit of the spring movement), there I've printed an adjustment wheel which is place on the hexa spacer and then I change the screw below the acrylic plate to a longer one and block it with a autolock nut. Now I can align the hotend to the tower and easily adjust the bed from below, without moving everything an screw it from above
This method keep the same "possible spring movement" on each tower axis whatever the bed level is.
I'm currently working on an improved version in order to stack a glass plate of the same size or bigger onto the bed.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/2016 03:28AM by Hergonoway.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress June 13, 2016 07:18AM |
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Hergonoway
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frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...
I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.
People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.
Frank
personally I''ve changed this system to a printed wheel adjustment below the bed. basically the V shape screw is locked to the hexa threaded spacer with loctite (just the tip of the screw to keep the benefit of the spring movement), there I've printed an adjustment wheel which is place on the hexa spacer and then I change the screw below the acrylic plate to a longer one and block it with a autolock nut. Now I can align the hotend to the tower and easily adjust the bed from below, without moving everything an screw it from above
This method keep the same "possible spring movement" on each tower axis whatever the bed level is.
I'm currently working on an improved version in order to stack a glass plate of the same size or bigger onto the bed.
could you show some pictures, please?
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress June 15, 2016 05:46PM |
Given my problems with leveling, I did a bit of reading about Delta geometry.
Summarising:
I now believe that the lack of effector stability in my printer is the real cause of the "bed-leveling" problems. I'll look at the carriages and effector to see if my repairs have made the arms non-parallel,
Looking at the D810 effector, it appears that the arm space could be increased somewhat, so that "b" is about the diameter of an M3 screw head (say 5mm). Since the arms must be parallel, the carriage would need to be redesigned to match.
Improved infill in the effector should make it more rigid, at the expense of increased weight. Possibly a "space-frame" effector could be designed to maximise stiffness and minimize weight.
My plan had been to measure just how far my nozzle was deviating from the bed by printing an effector to mount a dial indicator gauge with the same geometry as the hotend. However, my dial gauge is 55mm in diameter, and placing the tip at the nozzle position would put the dial right in the middle of the effector, where there just isn't room. I think I'll build an effector for my dial gauge so that the tip is as low as possible. I may yet try another effector for the hotend that lifts it a couple of centimetres
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2016 06:08PM by frankvdh.
Summarising:
- The effector should be horizontal at all times. The horizontalness of the effector is called the "effector stability". Clearly mine isn't horizontal when displaced from the centre. http://forums.reprap.org/addon.php?178,module=embed_images,file_id=78462
- Each pair of arms should be parallel to make the effector horizontal.
- The minimum arm angle (when the effector is at the maximum diameter) is important for effector stability, precision and carriage speed. A low angle means that a lot of carriage movement is needed for little effector movement, and decreases effector stability. Generally, 20° is considered a practical minimum angle. (I haven't yet checked what it is in the D810).
- The "arm space" is important for effector stability. Best stability is obtained with the minimum "offset", with the maximum possible arm space for this offset (minimising b dimension).
- The position of the hotend is important to minimize the consequence of effector tilt. The nearer that the nozzle is to the effector plane, the less that it will be affected by tilt. However, care should be taken to limit the raising of the center of gravity, to avoid creating dynamic moments.
- Stiffness of the effector may be important, as is minimizing forces and moments (i.e. minimizing friction and weight).
I now believe that the lack of effector stability in my printer is the real cause of the "bed-leveling" problems. I'll look at the carriages and effector to see if my repairs have made the arms non-parallel,
Looking at the D810 effector, it appears that the arm space could be increased somewhat, so that "b" is about the diameter of an M3 screw head (say 5mm). Since the arms must be parallel, the carriage would need to be redesigned to match.
Improved infill in the effector should make it more rigid, at the expense of increased weight. Possibly a "space-frame" effector could be designed to maximise stiffness and minimize weight.
My plan had been to measure just how far my nozzle was deviating from the bed by printing an effector to mount a dial indicator gauge with the same geometry as the hotend. However, my dial gauge is 55mm in diameter, and placing the tip at the nozzle position would put the dial right in the middle of the effector, where there just isn't room. I think I'll build an effector for my dial gauge so that the tip is as low as possible. I may yet try another effector for the hotend that lifts it a couple of centimetres
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2016 06:08PM by frankvdh.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress June 15, 2016 07:23PM |
My print are now very good,
the "b" value is important when you've got big effector, in our case it's a small one so you don't need to care about.
If I can suggest something, here's my personal experience, especially when using auto bed leveling :
- 1 : G or M 131/132S2 is a mandatory step before even manually correcting the flat level of the bed, it will make the effector horizontal to it's X/Y movement.
- 2 : springs on rods must be very close to the effector and the carriages, also rods must be parallels.
- 3 : my 230mm rod length geometry was good (DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD) but the projection value on the bed (ROD_RADIUS) was a bit wrong, so I had a curvature effect. Basically your effector is moving like being on a dome or in a hole instead having a flat movement,it can be tricky and almost impossible to see with naked eyes. Your auto leveling will be totally fu**ed up if you're in this case, trust me, I've been there. So I've made 3 scripts in order to go at 1cm away from each screws toward the center of the bed, at 1cm above the bed, I'll call them "calibration coordinates" ; first I go on each of these 3 calibration coordinates and manually calibrate the bed level where Z = 0 , like carefully with a sheet of paper and of course where Z is the same for each point. Then I go back to the middle and do a Z calibration (Z=0), homing, then I go check these coordination points and carefully reaching Z=0, if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 or the opposite you've got a curvature effect due to bad geometry input. I've observed that if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 you have a dome shape and you need to increase the ROD_RADIUS value, and decrease it if you've got a hole shape (the hot end do'esnt touch the bed at Z=0). I suggest doing 1mm correction at a time, then 0.5 then 0.2. ROD_RADIUS can be directly modified in EEPROM through Repetier, don't need to compile the firmware each time.
- 4 : 3mm aluminium bed is very "non flat" especially when it's hot, a glass bed over it improve the calibration a lot.
- 5 : tower must be parallel and have an angle of 60° to each other, I my case they are parallel and with the right angle, so I can only suggest you to use the "advance calibration delta" tool available on thingiverse to check and do corrections.
- 6 : if you do every thing above, in fact you almost don't need to auto level anymore
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2016 06:02AM by Hergonoway.
the "b" value is important when you've got big effector, in our case it's a small one so you don't need to care about.
If I can suggest something, here's my personal experience, especially when using auto bed leveling :
- 1 : G or M 131/132S2 is a mandatory step before even manually correcting the flat level of the bed, it will make the effector horizontal to it's X/Y movement.
- 2 : springs on rods must be very close to the effector and the carriages, also rods must be parallels.
- 3 : my 230mm rod length geometry was good (DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD) but the projection value on the bed (ROD_RADIUS) was a bit wrong, so I had a curvature effect. Basically your effector is moving like being on a dome or in a hole instead having a flat movement,it can be tricky and almost impossible to see with naked eyes. Your auto leveling will be totally fu**ed up if you're in this case, trust me, I've been there. So I've made 3 scripts in order to go at 1cm away from each screws toward the center of the bed, at 1cm above the bed, I'll call them "calibration coordinates" ; first I go on each of these 3 calibration coordinates and manually calibrate the bed level where Z = 0 , like carefully with a sheet of paper and of course where Z is the same for each point. Then I go back to the middle and do a Z calibration (Z=0), homing, then I go check these coordination points and carefully reaching Z=0, if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 or the opposite you've got a curvature effect due to bad geometry input. I've observed that if the hot-end touch the bed before reaching 0 you have a dome shape and you need to increase the ROD_RADIUS value, and decrease it if you've got a hole shape (the hot end do'esnt touch the bed at Z=0). I suggest doing 1mm correction at a time, then 0.5 then 0.2. ROD_RADIUS can be directly modified in EEPROM through Repetier, don't need to compile the firmware each time.
- 4 : 3mm aluminium bed is very "non flat" especially when it's hot, a glass bed over it improve the calibration a lot.
- 5 : tower must be parallel and have an angle of 60° to each other, I my case they are parallel and with the right angle, so I can only suggest you to use the "advance calibration delta" tool available on thingiverse to check and do corrections.
- 6 : if you do every thing above, in fact you almost don't need to auto level anymore
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2016 06:02AM by Hergonoway.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress July 27, 2016 06:12AM |
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Hally
Quote
frankvdh
Just a quick thought for Hally...
I suggest that you move the mounting holes for the bed so that they're away from the uprights. Where they are now, it is awkward to adjust the bed level, since the carriages and rods are in the way. I don't think there's any need for the bed mount screws to be aligned with the uprights.
People with existing printers might want to drill new holes in the bottom acrylic to change the position of those mounts.
Frank
Thanks Frank, we will do it later.
+1
Its a real issue. Drilling new holes in the plastic piece won't help if you turn the bed around 60 because holes will be over the 2020 structure (I tried)
Personnaly I went with a clamp system so I was able to add a more flat surface over the bed. The holes of the bed are aligned with the trench in the 2020 (more or less 1 mm offset) which gave me the opportunity to easily keep the spring system of the bed.
Hope it helped. (Sorry for the pics they are upside down for no reason)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2016 06:14AM by Hergonoway.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress August 05, 2016 11:53AM |
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frankvdh
I think the idea is that these are redesigned parts... i.e. parts that we don't already have.
Hi frankvdh,
but most of the kit's parts we have or it could be print.
There are only few really necessary parts: acrilic part and fastening
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2016 11:54AM by tidehunter.
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress August 06, 2016 12:14PM |
guys, I found interesting Integrated Fan Duct [www.thingiverse.com]
I printed and installed it on our printer.
In fact I fastened it only on 1 screw, because the model should be modified little bit.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I printed and installed it on our printer.
In fact I fastened it only on 1 screw, because the model should be modified little bit.
[www.thingiverse.com]
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Re: Zonestar D810B from AliExpress August 06, 2016 01:11PM |
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tidehunter
Hergonoway,
Looks like great. Could you let me know pls where did u get models and other parts of the clamp system and the glass?
and sry, but I didn't get what is 2020 structure? (I'm new with this)
Hi,
the 2020 are the aluminium bars, because they're 20mm*20mm. Found the Borosilicate Glass on Ebay, I took a 250mm diameter one.
I've designed myself the clamp system because the D810 has a custom sized base triangle (290mm of 2020 for the triangle wich is uncommon) and I wanted to keep the spring system in a way were the bed is clamp to the glass without using glue tape or else. There's no good designed on thingiverse to do the job for this size with a 250mm glass on top of the bed.
Still prototyping but here what's look like :
Also I've made a "clip on" support for both fan, no screws, just print and clip on the hotend. :
Green parts are existing part, blue are the printed, red are remove from blue part before printing (it's to keep holes visible when I work)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2016 01:14PM by Hergonoway.
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