Ordered Kossel Mini v3 from TP3D - prebuild suggestions?

Pretty excited,

Been lurking for a while, but just placed an order for a Kossel Mini kit from Think3DPrint3D (TP3D), their v3. Getting the Panel Due with it.
The have a 10 day lead time right now, then shipping to me half-way around the globe.

I'm new to 3D printers, but competent with electronics. Been reading TP3D's build instructions, DC42's blog and posts, and other forum posts (including this really useful one for an XL build - The first beta machine based on DC42's Kossel XL) . I won't be going XL, but the post was chock full of helpful info.

I'm trying to keep notes to help the build be accurate and initial operations go smoothly. My goal is to print functional pieces, as opposed to vases and other pretty pieces. Will probably be trying out some new materials like ColorFabb's PLA/PHA, XT or NGen.

Have, ordered or collected a few things that seem to be recommended:

1) Digital micrometer
2) Accurate ruler
3) Blue tape and glue stick
4) Filament
5) DMM

I'd love to hear what you more experienced folks would recommend for things i should watch out for during the build. I'm most likely going to stick to the build guide, but am will to listen to variations that would be suggested.

Looking forward to the start of a new time-sink.

--adam

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Honolulu, HI
TP3D Kossel Mini v3 (being built)

12" square

I recommend ball ended hex screwdrivers in 2 and 2.5mm sizes. The kit includes ball ended hex keys, but soft-handle hex screwdrivers are quicker and more comfortable to use for most of the screws.

A square is also an excellent suggestion, to help avoid leaning towers

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Hex screwdrivers sound like a good idea.

Question about squares:
I have a Stanley 16" combination square. I was considering getting a more compact 6" double square as well (Amazon) - any thoughts (not needed? not square enough)?

--adam

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Honolulu, HI
TP3D Kossel Mini v3 (being built)

My suggestion would be, do your build on a solid surface, and take your time (I built mine over 3 or 4 evenings, so was probably about 10 to 12 hours in total), double check everything you do, and measure things as accurately as possible. Also, the support from T3P3 was excellent, I had a minor problem and they were quick to help out and get me going again!

I also took a copy of the SD card as it came from T3P3 and used the copy in the printer - kept the original card safe so I can always go back to it.

I built mine around 6 months ago now, and have been getting on well with it - but as you'll learn, you never stop tweaking a kit built 3D printer! Mine has had a few upgrades...

* Lighting (IKEA Dioder LEDs)
* Side mounted filament spool (the top mounted solution, while it works, couldn't take some spools I have which had smaller centers)
* Smoke Alarm (safety first - mounted on the underside of the original filament spool)
* PanelDue
* E3D Titan extruder replacing the T3P3 printed one

T

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Current Printer: T3P3 Kossel (modified with E3D Titan and lighting)

My 3d Printing Blog - [codiourso.wordpress.com]

I know you have already ordered the printer but I don't personally see the need for the panel due, I preferred to spend the extra on the aluminium robotdigg corners. The web interface is great as long as your printer is near your PC or you have a laptop to put near your printer.

Thanks again for replies.

Quote
codiourso
* Lighting (IKEA Dioder LEDs)
* Side mounted filament spool (the top mounted solution, while it works, couldn't take some spools I have which had smaller centers)
* Smoke Alarm (safety first - mounted on the underside of the original filament spool)
* PanelDue
* E3D Titan extruder replacing the T3P3 printed one

I checked out your log pages - thanks. I tend to be pretty methodical in my kit building, so things go a bit slow, but sure.

The IKEA LEDs look good - was deciding how to do lighting. Actually, didn't know that IKEA had online ordering - no IKEA's near me . . . Arrggh - USD$40 to ship to Hawaii. . Still need to figure lighting . . .
Hopefully won't need another fliament spool. We'll see - I have 3 spools of ColorFabb XT and PLA/PHA filament here, and the printer kit is now enroute from the UK.
Do you get false triggers with the smoke alarm?
I'll start with the TP3 printed extruder - and consider upgrade in future.

Quote
mightymouth
don't personally see the need for the panel due, I preferred to spend the extra on the aluminium robotdigg corners.

I debated about shelling out for the PanelDue , but decided I liked the "always available" aspect of it without having to access it on laptop.

I had seen the robotdigg corners, and was tempted. . . . . I guess what stopped me most was not knowing for sure if TP3 had modified their printer corners which would cause me to run into issues during the build using their build guides. Remember, I have no experience in 3D printers. This is something i may go to in the future, I'm guessing changing them out will be a bit of pain, but by that time there may be other things i will want to modify.

I agree metal corners will be much better than printed ones. Panel due might not be required, but it definitely makes the printer pop.

Besides material, is there any difference in the design of the corners that would necessitate changing the build or operating procedures?

Eg, would tensioning of belts proceed in the same manner?
I understand the robotdigg parts come with idlers, but not the flanged bearings (at least according to their web page - i'm assuming the bearing from the TP3 is still used - is that correct?

Thanks.

--a

I want to be clear, I think the Panel Due is fantastic and will be a part of my build in the future but I think if you are on a budget like I am then the important thing is an accurate build, the niceties can wait.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2016 06:39PM by MightyMouth.

I have the T3P3 Kossel R3, too. I bought the metal corners. They're nice, but they're slightly deeper than the stock ABS corners. This means that the Duet PCB no longer fits between them, which is a pain. I solved it by raising the base and putting the Duet below, but it's not a great solution. Keep this in mind!

Thanks.

Roland at Think3DPrint3D also informed me about the redesign and the issues it would raise.
I'm going to hold off on the metal corners.

--adam

Sorry for the late reply on this - No false alarms from the smoke alarm - it's more there to reassure my partner that this thing won't burn the house down if something goes wrong - given that it's a home-assembled kit - and I've had no problems...

If I built another one I probably wouldn't bother with a printer-mounted alarm (and just rely on the house alarms instead)