FLSUN from AliExpres

Quote
Gordon W
Grateful for all advice and suggestions - I am quite new to this metier - but I have a reasonable background in machine automation. When the MINTEMP error first occurred I checked the connections and seating. It re-occurred so I replaced the thermistor and cable. It recurred - but only on long infills - say a raft for a 180 mm circle. I saw that as the head approached the brim the display would dim; sometimes it would not extrude properly; and sometimes it would MINTEMP. It only occurs when the bed is heated as well. I have concluded (admittedly from a limited knowledge base) that the power available was less than required. So it is fixed to the extent that it can be avoided if the bed is not heated or I don't try large infills. I've found this printer works well for about 30% of the theororetical build area (i.e. up to about 100mm diameter). I'm thinking of either power the heated bed separately (having the arduino outputs switch a relay instead of powering the heated bed. Or buying a more robust controller.

Regards

Gordon

If the display is dimming then the 5V rail is not stable. Does your printer have a graphical LCD or a servo attached? If so, this is a common problem (system design fault) with Arduino/Mega/LCD-or-servo setups. An electronics upgrade will indeed fix it, but it is not the only way. See [reprap.org]. It's just possible that the 12V supply is the problem (and it dropping enough that the 5V rail dips in turn), but it's more likely to be the 5V regulator.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2017 12:03PM by dc42.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
spinor

Quote

The printer sounds quite mechanical and it's noticeably louder than my prusa. My guess is that it's motor tuning and belts too tight.
But this is minor and having come from CNC and Prusa printers the delta killed my brain. I don't think I could've got it working without your work.

My flsun was also noisy, so I printed these stands and put the printer on them. Couldn't believe how much quieter it became. For a moment I actually thought I had developed a hearing problem! It wobbles a bit during printing, but that doesn't seem to cause any issues.

I'll definitely print those stands, they look like a great addition.

I can feel the mechanical vibration (holding the printer in two hands in the air) and the noise of the steppers doesn't sound right (when compared to the same steppers on the prusa. Once I tune them and adjust belt tension I'll post back any gains, if any, that I get.

Quote
Gordon W
Grateful for all advice and suggestions - I am quite new to this metier - but I have a reasonable background in machine automation. When the MINTEMP error first occurred I checked the connections and seating. It re-occurred so I replaced the thermistor and cable. It recurred - but only on long infills - say a raft for a 180 mm circle. I saw that as the head approached the brim the display would dim; sometimes it would not extrude properly; and sometimes it would MINTEMP. It only occurs when the bed is heated as well. I have concluded (admittedly from a limited knowledge base) that the power available was less than required. So it is fixed to the extent that it can be avoided if the bed is not heated or I don't try large infills. I've found this printer works well for about 30% of the theororetical build area (i.e. up to about 100mm diameter). I'm thinking of either power the heated bed separately (having the arduino outputs switch a relay instead of powering the heated bed. Or buying a more robust controller.

Regards

Gordon

I may have missed it but are you powering it from the jack plug or are you using the hard wire connections? for heated bed you can't use the jack plug.
have you run a multi-meter across your power supply to check it's giving enough voltage?

Quote
tablefx

Quote
spinor

Quote

The printer sounds quite mechanical and it's noticeably louder than my prusa. My guess is that it's motor tuning and belts too tight.
But this is minor and having come from CNC and Prusa printers the delta killed my brain. I don't think I could've got it working without your work.

My flsun was also noisy, so I printed these stands and put the printer on them. Couldn't believe how much quieter it became. For a moment I actually thought I had developed a hearing problem! It wobbles a bit during printing, but that doesn't seem to cause any issues.

I'll definitely print those stands, they look like a great addition.

I can feel the mechanical vibration (holding the printer in two hands in the air) and the noise of the steppers doesn't sound right (when compared to the same steppers on the prusa. Once I tune them and adjust belt tension I'll post back any gains, if any, that I get.

Have you tried checking your stepper driver voltages with a multimeter? If you have an MKS mini-b, Vref should be around 0.5V. But I think it may just be normal for this printer - mine was certainly very noisy until I used the suspension feet.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2017 06:28AM by spinor.

Thank you very much LVD i will try it! Sorry for the late reply !!

so I was running the end stop calibration and was getting this error.

Can't achieve accurate probing - adjust probing precision upward

and the following values

READ: z-Height: 	284.73			Ex:0.00      	Ey:-0.05      	Ez:-0.38
READ: Radius: 	102.89
READ: Calibration OK - to save these settings use M500

on the last probe point the printer makes a repeated fast beeping before homing.

has anyone else experienced this?

// EDIT //
Rookie error.
Just needed to screw the probe screw in to reduce the amount of movement required to trigger it.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2017 06:27AM by tablefx.

what are most people running for the delta_radius?

I've gone from 105 to 95 with no difference.
Have run bed levelling auto.
Have manually levelled the bed to be within 0.01mm at each of the bed adjustment points.
Have confirmed the bed is flat with a machinists square.

I can't seem to get the middle of the bed to play nice.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2017 09:23PM by tablefx.

Hey,

Quote
Gordon W

When it is printing long infills on a heated bed with the LCD operating, sometimes it will stop with a MINTEMP error. I suspect there is a problem either with the power supply being too weak or the motherboard (Arduino based) not having sufficient capability.

I had exactly the same problem. It's very common my friend has the same even on another 3d printer. They require to be plug in a single outlet (pas de multiprise). As they are quite sensitive and require a lot of power, power stip (multiprise) are made to block the power if the maximum amount is reached.

Now my flsun has his own outlet and i never had this problem again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2017 11:48AM by Inissa.

Quote
LVD
This should get rid of the errors - and uncomment #define SDSUPPORT in configuration.h

Hi LVD,

I tried but i still have errors. Even if i uncomment SDSUPPORT or if i comment it.

I get:


In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:8,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:36:

SdBaseFile.h:38: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

exit status 1
using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

Then I suspect you do not have the latest version of Marlin-AC

so I stand corrected.
adjusting the limit switch screw didn't help with the calibration steps. I'm still getting the following:

Can't achieve accurate probing - adjust probing precision upward

I'll try and take a video to show.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2017 12:47AM by tablefx.

Is your bed mounted on springs? If so it could be they are pressed down when probing.

Hey guys! So I have this printer, and its giving me some problems.

I'm using the Marlin-AC firmware. With the previous firmware (Marlin) it worked OK, but with this one the hot end get to the bed, and when it comes to the config temp (200 C), it wont start printing. It stays there... forever (?).

Can anyone help me with this? Its driving me mad.

Thanks!!

Quote
tpichierri
Hey guys! So I have this printer, and its giving me some problems.

I'm using the Marlin-AC firmware. With the previous firmware (Marlin) it worked OK, but with this one the hot end get to the bed, and when it comes to the config temp (200 C), it wont start printing. It stays there... forever (?).

Can anyone help me with this? Its driving me mad.

Thanks!!

Maybe you have a message on the LCD "Waiting for user..."?
Press the button.

Quote
Aamo

Quote
tpichierri
Hey guys! So I have this printer, and its giving me some problems.

I'm using the Marlin-AC firmware. With the previous firmware (Marlin) it worked OK, but with this one the hot end get to the bed, and when it comes to the config temp (200 C), it wont start printing. It stays there... forever (?).

Can anyone help me with this? Its driving me mad.

Thanks!!

Maybe you have a message on the LCD "Waiting for user..."?
Press the button.

I will try this today when I get home.

Thanks

which setting should I adjust to compensate for curvature across the heatbed?
it is behaving like the "delta radius" setting here: [wp.boim.com]
adjusting DELTA_RADIUS has had no effect thus far.

In the centre of the heatbed the hotend is approximately 0.25mm higher than the outer edge.
Around the outer edge the hot end dips approximately 0.1mm in front of one of the towers.

I have tried everything from 0 to 200 and it quite literally made no change at all. Everytime I connect to the printer (after making a configuration.h change and uploading) and get the initial dump of settings the radius is listed at 102.92.

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 02/10/2017 07:53AM by tablefx.

Quote

If the display is dimming then the 5V rail is not stable. Does your printer have a graphical LCD or a servo attached? If so, this is a common problem (system design fault) with Arduino/Mega/LCD-or-servo setups. An electronics upgrade will indeed fix it, but it is not the only way. See [reprap.org]. It's just possible that the 12V supply is the problem (and it dropping enough that the 5V rail dips in turn), but it's more likely to be the 5V regulator.

Hi

Thanks for your help. I am now more certain that there is a power supply problem. I bought some PrintBite (which is a wonderful product BTW) and the installation required heating the bed to 110 - I couldn't get it to go past 90. And then when I tried to print with a bed temperature of 65, I couldn't get the extruder temperature above 200. Do you think using a separate power supply for the bed heater might be a step in the right direction (using the current bed outputs to only drive a relay)?

Regards

Gordon

Quote
tablefx
I have tried everything from 0 to 200 and it quite literally made no change at all. Everytime I connect to the printer (after making a configuration.h change and uploading) and get the initial dump of settings the radius is listed at 102.92.

Write it to EEPROM with M502 M500

Quote
Gordon W

Quote

If the display is dimming then the 5V rail is not stable. Does your printer have a graphical LCD or a servo attached? If so, this is a common problem (system design fault) with Arduino/Mega/LCD-or-servo setups. An electronics upgrade will indeed fix it, but it is not the only way. See [reprap.org]. It's just possible that the 12V supply is the problem (and it dropping enough that the 5V rail dips in turn), but it's more likely to be the 5V regulator.

Hi

Thanks for your help. I am now more certain that there is a power supply problem. I bought some PrintBite (which is a wonderful product BTW) and the installation required heating the bed to 110 - I couldn't get it to go past 90. And then when I tried to print with a bed temperature of 65, I couldn't get the extruder temperature above 200. Do you think using a separate power supply for the bed heater might be a step in the right direction (using the current bed outputs to only drive a relay)?

Regards

Gordon

It's very common for cheap 3D printer kits to have under-powered PCB bed heaters. Also if it uses RAMPS electronics then it probably has the usual poorly-specified mosfet, made worse by the problem of your 5V regulator being overloaded and giving less than 5V. Unless you want to spend significant money on better electronics, I suggest you proceed as follows:

1. Use a multimeter to check the voltage on the 5V rail, to verify that you have a problem with the regulator overheating. If it isn't at least 4.75V and stable, you have that problem. See the link I gave you previously.

2. After you have fixed the 5V supply, if the bed heater mosfet is still getting hot (not merely warm), replace it by a better type.

3. If you are getting significant voltage drop between the power supply and the electronics bed power input, or between the bed heater output and the bed heater, use thicker wires.

4. After that, if you are still short of heating power, then you can turn up then power supply voltage if the power supply has enough spare power capacity.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks for all this help

Quote
dc42

It's very common for cheap 3D printer kits to have under-powered PCB bed heaters. Also if it uses RAMPS electronics then it probably has the usual poorly-specified mosfet, made worse by the problem of your 5V regulator being overloaded and giving less than 5V. Unless you want to spend significant money on better electronics,

It is a MKS Base V1.5

Quote
dc42

I suggest you proceed as follows:

1. Use a multimeter to check the voltage on the 5V rail, to verify that you have a problem with the regulator overheating. If it isn't at least 4.75V and stable, you have that problem. See the link I gave you previously.

Sorry for asking what might be a dumb question do I make this measurement when the machine is running or at rest? At rest it is a stable 4.95V and stays that way when the heater and extruder heater are turned on.

Quote
dc42

2. After you have fixed the 5V supply, if the bed heater mosfet is still getting hot (not merely warm), replace it by a better type.

Only slightly warm - definitely not hot.

Quote
dc42

3. If you are getting significant voltage drop between the power supply and the electronics bed power input, or between the bed heater output and the bed heater, use thicker wires.

This might be an issue - I have 12.2 coming out of the supply and 11.9 at the board - I will upgrade those wires. There's no meaningful drop between the heater output and the bed.

Quote
dc42

4. After that, if you are still short of heating power, then you can turn up then power supply voltage if the power supply has enough spare power capacity.

Sorry this one loses me completely - I don't seen any place to adjust the output voltage.

So #1 and #2 are OK, #3 could use a little improvement but isn't too bad. For #4, what sort of power supply are you using? If it's a PC power supply, you can't easily adjust the voltage. If it's a typical 12V Chinese PSU with a row of terminal blocks at one end, some for mains input and the others for outputs, there is usually a potentiometer at one end of the terminal block for adjusting the voltage. Turning it up to 14V will give you 36% more heating power. This applies to the hot end too, so you may need to auto tune again. The 12V fans are normally OK at 14V although ideally you should connect a couple of 1n4001 or similar diodes in series with them to drop the voltage back to 12V.

All this assumes that the MKS board is happy with the voltage increased to 14V. It probably is, but I haven't seen the specifications for it.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
So #1 and #2 are OK, #3 could use a little improvement but isn't too bad. For #4, what sort of power supply are you using? If it's a PC power supply, you can't easily adjust the voltage. If it's a typical 12V Chinese PSU with a row of terminal blocks at one end, some for mains input and the others for outputs, there is usually a potentiometer at one end of the terminal block for adjusting the voltage. Turning it up to 14V will give you 36% more heating power. This applies to the hot end too, so you may need to auto tune again. The 12V fans are normally OK at 14V although ideally you should connect a couple of 1n4001 or similar diodes in series with them to drop the voltage back to 12V.

All this assumes that the MKS board is happy with the voltage increased to 14V. It probably is, but I haven't seen the specifications for it.

You're a genius. Changed the 1mm2 wire to 2.5mm2 and adjusted the voltage to 14. The printer now prints large fills perfectly - no flickering screen, no loss of extrusion, no MINTEMP errors.

Thank you so much.

I will definitely be buying your products for the printer I am building now because I can be sure of great product knowledge and support.

And hopefully this thread will help anyone else having similar problems.

version 11

- Some minor bugs fixed.
- Configuration for 1 and 2 fans included
- Configuration for old and new design effector

(just copy the files from the appropriate subdirectory)

Hello all,

First of all, grateful thanks for LVD for the beautiful v11. I however, don't have a problem with the fan_pin issue so I copied my working pin.h over to v11 and it is working beautifully.

However, there is a minor issue with the delta radius set to 75, I can do auto-calibrate but if I set it to 105 (my bed is a 220mm) I got an error message "cannot converge..."?? and SD set to 0.11. I saved whatever result from the auto-calibrate with M500 and the it seem ok. Not sure if that is the intention or not of the auto-calibrate. It is working so I did not bother with it. (Anyway, I normally level the bed after 10 or so prints, the yanking of the prints tend to slightly move the 3-screw spring hotbed)

Here's a problem which I somewhat created and solved. My FLSun delta came with a brick PSU. I thought I "tune" it down to 12V and all sorts of weird problems cropped up ranging from stalled prints to temperature bouncing all over the place. So, the moral of the story under-voltage give rise to grief. Now my power supply is set to 12.5V. I now have a little voltage meter attached permanently to the PSU and mounted on the 2020.

Cheers to all and thanks for the great work/contribution everybody has made to make this thread so much interesting.

When I try to do G33 calibration, I get errors Can't achieve accurate probing - adjust probing precision upward I then adjusted the screw and I think I eliminated that but as the iterations continue the probe is slammed into the bed then it runs off the bed so hard to one of the corners it broke the belt. What's is going on here?
I am wondering if the fact that they now ship with a different board is having any effect. My unit came with an MKS Ramps plus2 board which I can find almost no info about other than is similar to a ramps 1.4 however some of the pins don't map out the same. Any help would be appreciated. I am unable to access the EEPROM via repetier is that normal? Is there a way in the menu tree?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2017 02:23AM by agitprop.

Hello,

I got the same board. Not sure what you mean by different pin mapping? I'd only used marlin and it is working well. Don't really have a reason to muck around too much. I can't really comment on Repetier. Haven't tried it.

The original menu tree is pretty redimentary and I don't think you find any eeprom settings there to play around.

Well for starters how can I control the fan speed on the connector marked fan it seems to be on all the time. There was a point where I was able to adjust it but I can't find and mapping info for that board. (There is a possibility that the CPU data line is shorted open and it is holding the fan on all the time) Second, unless my printer has become sentient and is trying to kill me why is the auto calibrate (G33) so violently destructive? On the EEPROM issue do you have some way of adjusting specific parameters outside of a reflash

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2017 11:25AM by agitprop.

The G33 slamming into the bed is most likely due to the endstop not triggering or being stuck. And all EEPROM parameters can be set with the appropriate Mxxx commands.

@Agitprop,

Other than what LVD pointed out about the endstops, maybe (only if you want to) you can try my configuration out since both of us have the same Ramp 2 plus board. Please note that this configuration.h needs a bit more finetuning for the print quality is not as good as my older firmware (RC2). I need time and some good eyesight to make a file comparison with LVD version vs. my older working RC2 which does not have autoleveling but the print quality is much better.

My hotend with LVD version seem to skew more at the edge of the bed (the hotend is not straight) when the older fw does not.

Hope this helps?

New version based on Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 is available here

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2017 09:31AM by LVD.