Mount a Kossel XL

Hi to all.
I want to build a Kossel XL from the follow link:

Kossel XL

Is this kit a good start to mount the Kossel?

Kossel XL Kit

In the motors, i want to buy the JK42HM48-1684:

Motors

Heater Bed - 24v 350w:

Heater bed

or this is better?

Option bed


About the controller, please i see many things and opinions. Please leave a sugestion.
Regards.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/17/2016 10:13PM by ralex.

I suggest you take a look at my series of blog entries on building a large Kossel. The first is at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. Key points:

* Use metal corners, not printed ones. Either the Robotdigg ones, or the sheet metal ones described at [groups.google.com].

* A mains-powered bed heater is more practical when the bed size is large, and it allows all the electronics and the power supply to be put under the bed. If you are not comfortable doing mains wiring, then use a 24V heater. 350W is about the right power for a 300mm diameter heater. If you go for the 500W one in your second link, then it may reach excessive temperatures (above 200C) if you ever get uncontrolled heating.

* Duet electronics provides the most advanced delta firmware, including segmentation-free delta kinematics, least squares fast auto calibration, and a good web interface (full disclosure: I implemented the first two of those features, and I maintain a fork of the firmware).

One change I would make if I were building it again is to use 2040 verticals instead of 2020, possibly V-slot..

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

you have some 2020 extrusions in your bom as well as some 2060 extrusions inout bom.

are you suggesting all of the 2020 extrusions be 2040? would the 2060s stay the same? also, what would change in your BOM if we went with vslot extrusions.. what are th advantages?

I would change the three vertical extrusions to 2040. I don't know whether this would make a significant difference because with the metal corners the printer is probably already as rigid as it needs to be; but now that metal corners for 2040 vertical extrusions are available, it is an easy and relatively inexpensive change to make.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
I suggest you take a look at my series of blog entries on building a large Kossel. The first is at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. Key points:

* Use metal corners, not printed ones. Either the Robotdigg ones, or the sheet metal ones described at [groups.google.com].

* A mains-powered bed heater is more practical when the bed size is large, and it allows all the electronics and the power supply to be put under the bed. If you are not comfortable doing mains wiring, then use a 24V heater. 350W is about the right power for a 300mm diameter heater. If you go for the 500W one in your second link, then it may reach excessive temperatures (above 200C) if you ever get uncontrolled heating.

* Duet electronics provides the most advanced delta firmware, including segmentation-free delta kinematics, least squares fast auto calibration, and a good web interface (full disclosure: I implemented the first two of those features, and I maintain a fork of the firmware).

One change I would make if I were building it again is to use 2040 verticals instead of 2020, possibly V-slot..

Thanks to all sugestions.
dc42, i have already look your site. After that, i decided to put a heat bed 24v and buy the JK42HM48-1684 motors. In your link to the heater bed, do you put anything in the notes to the seller?

And with the frame:
3x 750mm Black OpenBeams
9x 360mm Black OpenBeams

Can i have a area of 30cm to print?

Regards.

Quote
ralex

Quote
dc42
I suggest you take a look at my series of blog entries on building a large Kossel. The first is at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. Key points:

* Use metal corners, not printed ones. Either the Robotdigg ones, or the sheet metal ones described at [groups.google.com].

* A mains-powered bed heater is more practical when the bed size is large, and it allows all the electronics and the power supply to be put under the bed. If you are not comfortable doing mains wiring, then use a 24V heater. 350W is about the right power for a 300mm diameter heater. If you go for the 500W one in your second link, then it may reach excessive temperatures (above 200C) if you ever get uncontrolled heating.

* Duet electronics provides the most advanced delta firmware, including segmentation-free delta kinematics, least squares fast auto calibration, and a good web interface (full disclosure: I implemented the first two of those features, and I maintain a fork of the firmware).

One change I would make if I were building it again is to use 2040 verticals instead of 2020, possibly V-slot..

Thanks to all sugestions.
dc42, i have already look your site. After that, i decided to put a heat bed 24v and buy the JK42HM48-1684 motors. In your link to the heater bed, do you put anything in the notes to the seller?

And with the frame:
3x 750mm Black OpenBeams
9x 360mm Black OpenBeams

Can i have a area of 30cm to print?

Regards.

AliBaba gives you an option to contact the seller if you click on the seller name. Use that to request a quotation.

I was getting 300mm diameter printable area when I had Traxxas joints. The printable area is a little smaller after I changed to Igus joints and printed a larger effector.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
ralex

Quote
dc42
I suggest you take a look at my series of blog entries on building a large Kossel. The first is at [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. Key points:

* Use metal corners, not printed ones. Either the Robotdigg ones, or the sheet metal ones described at [groups.google.com].

* A mains-powered bed heater is more practical when the bed size is large, and it allows all the electronics and the power supply to be put under the bed. If you are not comfortable doing mains wiring, then use a 24V heater. 350W is about the right power for a 300mm diameter heater. If you go for the 500W one in your second link, then it may reach excessive temperatures (above 200C) if you ever get uncontrolled heating.

* Duet electronics provides the most advanced delta firmware, including segmentation-free delta kinematics, least squares fast auto calibration, and a good web interface (full disclosure: I implemented the first two of those features, and I maintain a fork of the firmware).

One change I would make if I were building it again is to use 2040 verticals instead of 2020, possibly V-slot..

Thanks to all sugestions.
dc42, i have already look your site. After that, i decided to put a heat bed 24v and buy the JK42HM48-1684 motors. In your link to the heater bed, do you put anything in the notes to the seller?

And with the frame:
3x 750mm Black OpenBeams
9x 360mm Black OpenBeams

Can i have a area of 30cm to print?

Regards.

AliBaba gives you an option to contact the seller if you click on the seller name. Use that to request a quotation.

I was getting 300mm diameter printable area when I had Traxxas joints. The printable area is a little smaller after I changed to Igus joints and printed a larger effector.

Hi dc42.
So, in the link of heated bed i put "350w - 24v" in the notes to the seller?
In the arms, i saw many options. Wich is the best alternative to the linear guides? They are a little overpriced to my country.
Regards.

Quote
ralex
Hi dc42.
So, in the link of heated bed i put "350w - 24v" in the notes to the seller?
In the arms, i saw many options. Wich is the best alternative to the linear guides? They are a little overpriced to my country.
Regards.

If you are ordering the exact size shown in that listing, with the same options (thermistor or not?) then I guess the price will be the same and a note to the seller should suffice. Otherwise, use the "contact seller" option I described earlier to ask for the price.

I don't use linear guides on my delta, I use wheeled carriages. If you go this route, make sure you use good quality Delrin wheels of an appropriate size for your extrusions. Linear guides might be better, but I think only if they are of high quality.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42

Quote
ralex
Hi dc42.
So, in the link of heated bed i put "350w - 24v" in the notes to the seller?
In the arms, i saw many options. Wich is the best alternative to the linear guides? They are a little overpriced to my country.
Regards.

If you are ordering the exact size shown in that listing, with the same options (thermistor or not?) then I guess the price will be the same and a note to the seller should suffice. Otherwise, use the "contact seller" option I described earlier to ask for the price.

I don't use linear guides on my delta, I use wheeled carriages. If you go this route, make sure you use good quality Delrin wheels of an appropriate size for your extrusions. Linear guides might be better, but I think only if they are of high quality.

Hi. I saw magnetic joints for the Delta. Is better or the same as the wheeled carriages?
Regards

Quote
ralex
Hi. I saw magnetic joints for the Delta. Is better or the same as the wheeled carriages?
Regards

Magnetic joints are an alternative to Traxxas or Igus joints or spring-loaded ball and socket joints at the ends of the rods. You still need either linear sliders or wheeled carriages, or some other way of constraining the carriages to move up and down the towers.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
I would change the three vertical extrusions to 2040. I don't know whether this would make a significant difference because with the metal corners the printer is probably already as rigid as it needs to be; but now that metal corners for 2040 vertical extrusions are available, it is an easy and relatively inexpensive change to make.

Hi dc42.

So, i need to buy this corners to put the frame. I live in Europe and cannot found a alternative seller.
Regards.

Corner

I bought my corners direct from Robotdigg. They took several days to arrive, and the carriage was expensive. The latest info I have seen on the sheet metal alternative corners is in this thread [groups.google.com].

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
I bought my corners direct from Robotdigg. They took several days to arrive, and the carriage was expensive. The latest info I have seen on the sheet metal alternative corners is in this thread [groups.google.com].

Hi.

Can someone tell me if this kit allow me to use vertical 2040?
Regards.

Corners

No, those corners are for 2020 verticals. Look on the Robotdigg site for similar corners for 2040 verticals.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
dc42
No, those corners are for 2020 verticals. Look on the Robotdigg site for similar corners for 2040 verticals.

Thanks dc42.
I have to buy from Robotdigg. About the sheet metal alternative corners, i didn´t found any shop. I think buying the electronic first and leave the frame to last.
Regards.

Hi.
Can someone tell me if this motor exists? JK42HM48-2404. I cannot found any information. Or is better to buy the motor in the second link?.
Regards.

Motor


Motor

From the ref of the motor, this is a 48mm long motor, with a nominal current of 2.4A. This current is excessive for most printer electronic boards. You shall prefer 1.68A steppers.

The second link is for a 2A stepper, better, but still a bit high in current.

It depends from your board.
Pololu driver may not exceed much 1.2A~1.4A with serious cooling, Duet may go 1.6A (may be more, to be tested) and Smoothie may go near 2A . Use ~85% of the nominal stepper current or less.

These steppers are a bit costly, if you place an order to RobotDigg, you may order them your steppers.
Anyway, you may have a look at this page : [reprap.org] to choose stepper and voltage.

Quote
dc42
No, those corners are for 2020 verticals. Look on the Robotdigg site for similar corners for 2040 verticals.

Hi dc42.
Can you tell me if can trust in this seller?

Kossel

I cannot found other link to buy Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit in Europe.
Regards.

I can Vouch for this supplier in fact he is the Manufacturer of the 25K Brackets mine arrived in 5 days once they Shipped.

Glenn (From NCC) is the only person you can get them from Currently if you are outside of the USA/Canada.

Doug

Hello,

I actually build my second Kossel with 2040 extrusion and Robotdigg's aluminum corner for 2040. Very strong and rigid.
[www.robotdigg.com]
About the controller, I definitely use DUET for all my printers (Delta and cartesian). Some reasons : first the web interface, very helpful to control printer without USB connection. You can either use ethernet cable or Wifi connection with tablet. second : the PanelDue, very nice with Color Touch screen and the usability to control the printer without connection (ethernet or Usb). If your STL files are already stored on the SD card, you can launch printing without computer.
and last reason : configuration is very easy by changing the configuation text files, no need to download firmware like Arduino/Ramps. You modify your config file and sometimes for some files, , you just must reset the controller and all is gone again.

For Z probe, I use the mini IR sensor (thank you DC42), it has a very high accuracy and works fine.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/23/2016 01:35AM by lolocaledo.

Hi.
My problem is order Robotdigg's aluminum corner for 2040 from outside Europe. In Portugal, sometimes the taxes of the produts in customs costs 2 or 3 times than the produt. Can someone tell me if there is a alternative in Europe to buy Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit or the aluminum corner for 2040?
Thanks a lot!

Hi.
Can someone help me about this questions?
Thanks a lot!

1) I finally got a Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit. This material is enought ?

3x 750mm 2040 V-Slot Rails
9x 360mm 2020 V-Slot Rails

Or i have to buy 12x 360mm 2020 V-Slot Rails?

2) To mount the Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit, can i follow this guide?

Manual

3) And about the motor, is these a good choice?

Motor

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2016 06:56PM by ralex.

The motor looks to me to be a good choice, assuming you will be using 24V power and 32 but electronics.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
ralex
Hi.
Can someone help me about this questions?
Thanks a lot!

1) I finally got a Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit. This material is enought ?

3x 750mm 2040 V-Slot Rails
9x 360mm 2020 V-Slot Rails

Or i have to buy 12x 360mm 2020 V-Slot Rails?

2) To mount the Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit, can i follow this guide?

Manual

3) And about the motor, is these a good choice?

Motor

You will need 12 not 9 pieces of 20x20 and you could use 40x40 for the vertical's if you want the extra stiffness.

Doug

Hi.
Thanks a lot!

Doug, can you tell me if to mount the Kossel 25000 Metal Bracket Kit, it´s the same as the normal kit of the Kossel?
Regards.

Hi.
Can someone tell me if i can use a V-Slot Gantry Plate (Option: 20mm) in alternative of a HIWIN MGN-12H 400mm in a v-slot 2040?
Regards.