Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

you can get the boat here:
[www.thingiverse.com]

All the details are in the instruction text. :-)
But it is 0.3mm layer height, and 0.6mm layer width , and 115% flow.
I use the cheapest hobbyking silver PLA.

Its designed to be printed with "spiral vase", so it is printed in one sigle strand of PLA :-)
Only one wall thick , so it is thin....and light.

But you have to print them slow, otherwise it will mess up somewhere on the print eventualy, and it will all be ruined :-)










The plane parts are printed on my Malyan M150

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SJN
you can get the boat here:
[www.thingiverse.com]

All the details are in the instruction text. :-)
But it is 0.3mm layer height, and 0.6mm layer width , and 115% flow.
I use the cheapest hobbyking silver PLA.

Its designed to be printed with "spiral vase", so it is printed in one sigle strand of PLA :-)
Only one wall thick , so it is thin....and light.

Thanks, I didn't realize it's spiral vase. And thanks for the pointer, maybe I should think of printing one too ;-)

Next part did not turn out a perfect as the bow, but I will still use it.

Hwat are you guys using your Mini Kossel for ?

I realy need a bigger one.......think I will order this beast!
[www.ebay.co.uk]











Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/18/2016 06:22PM by SJN.

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hacker

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SJN
Just test printed the bow for an rc boat..... Only the bottom layer is messed up because my bed is not level..... Easy fix.

Looks disgustingly perfect! What's the layer height? And how long? And what's the filament?

+1. Beautiful print. It's amazing what these cheap printers can output when you put your mind to it.

its all in the settings....trial and error.

settings for this print , will not work as well for another object.........tick off te wrong box in the slicer, and that will mess up everything :-)

Its a real learning experiance, athat you can not prepare for realy......

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SJN
its all in the settings....trial and error.

settings for this print , will not work as well for another object.........tick off te wrong box in the slicer, and that will mess up everything :-)

Its a real learning experiance, athat you can not prepare for realy......

That's why you can take the praise personally and one can't attribute it to the machine ;-)

Glad to see some people are still having luck with these Sintron printers, I would certainly be happy with the kit if it came like that.

However after spending many months studying 3D printing mechanics I have finally learnt that I have been scammed. You see, I purchased my kit from Sintron Australia on Ebay. I assume there are many kit suppliers, however I guess some are more legit than others.

The effector I received is not only skewed, but skewed in a way only a poorly tuned delta could cause. My parts were not printed on an UP 2 machine. On top of that the parts I received look dull and weird to other kits. Maybe Sintron just give the rights away to any noob with a pile of motors.

This has left me unable to replace any parts on my printer as the first parts were useless. So now I either need new corners, carriages and effector, or a new 3D printer (I have chosen the latter to fix my current situation.

I spent a very very long time trying to fix a printer that would never ever work properly and while I learnt a lot, it has been a very painful and confusing experience.

Thanks Hacker :-)

Bummer ohfurryone. Can you show some pictures of the bad parts that you have ?
I ordered mine from Germany.

I also got mine from Germany, I doubt they have improved much since I bought my, so I tend to attribute SJN's quick success to his skills rather than to kit's quality.

Back when I had my problems, I opted out of Sintron guys sending me replacement plastic parts, because I have another printer, but they did offer it (don't that that was needed anyway, their attempt on fixing, I'm afraid, had negligible effect), have you contacted them, ohfurryone? They are pretty much a noob with a pile of motors, but they do try their best to help you get the thing together.

But well, if nothing short of the new kit works, one can only hope that you haven't paid too high a tuition for the stuff you've learned trying to get it to work.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/21/2016 02:25AM by hacker.

Printes some V2 rockets using spiral vase, and it looks great. It did mess up a few times because im printing too fast...

Haste makes waste.

Also, Cura 2.3.1 does not do spiral vase properly..... It just draws a layer normaly, and then jumps up to the next layer at the end, causing a seem on the print.
Slic3r does it properly, and gradualy lifts the z axis during the print, and prints continiously, making no seems. Great feature.... For 3d stuff designed with one perimeter.

I have tried taking photos here but they keep coming out terrible and now the camera is flat.

The measurements on the effector are 38.5, 38.6 and 38.2mm. One of the cutout sections for where the nuts go is a visible trapezoid shape. They did offer a partial refund and spare parts after I left bad feedback but I didn't want to change it. Plus they obviously have zero ability to print legit parts that work.

I don't know whether to print a new effector or put the original melted one back on to make it work slightly better lol. It's not too bad for me as I am buying an Up 2 for a future side business, if I was poorer though I would be thoroughly pissed.

I have learned a lot and with that I am slowly designing a linear printer with a conversion kit option for these types of printers. I suppose $600 is cheap compared to some books universities make you buy but I wish I had a working printer at the end of it. I spent a lot of the time thinking it was something I was doing wrong, if I had a working printer base I would have had much more consistent results with adjustments. Instead I spent many tens of hours wondering why it wouldn't print flat when the answer was it couldn't.

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The measurements on the effector are 38.5, 38.6 and 38.2mm

You can file down the effector and then use washers to make it match the carrier width. It's an easy fix and you didn't waste all the money.
There are also aluminum effectors ( robotdigg IIRC ) that fit very well. Maybe you also want to get their aluminum carriers.

Hi everybody!!

Finally I got access to this forum.. (second nick)

I am also a "victim" of a cheap priced sintrons kossel mini, got to admit that there is fault on the buyer side also (me) because I blindly bought one from amazon. I followed the link from 3dhubs and tought this is not so expensive..oh yeah right..

I have no experience of 3d printers at all, I found this forum and this thread with google.. most of the "owning kossel" time I've been reading this thread and not even touched the damn thing.. There is lots of good and usefull information in this thread, so thank you very much guys!!

In the meanwhile I have ordered sh!tload of new parts to my kossel, like aluminum effector e3dv6 hotend etc..

also I bought those traxxas rod ends. I tought I am going to use original metal rods.. but sintron has changed the size of the metal rods from M4 to M3 !!
so this Idea was doomed from very begining.. so I ordered assembled carbon fiber rods.. again some extra money wasted..

Also I have bought aluminum corner pieces and like somebody said earlier that these corners have M5 size holes so new scews and nuts are required..
Also I needed to enlarge countersink holes to make countersunk heads fit better..

I will upload some images in the future because pictures tells way more than my rally English

Welcome to the forum.

My effector, and carriages are realy not perfect either, and I can see my effector is not perfectly level beause of this

But is still prints awesome :-)
Im actualy more happy with this mini kossel than my Malyan M150 printer.....except for the build plate size :-)

Im deffinatly getting a larger delta printer in the future.

I decided not to upgrade this printer, and use any more cash on it. Just use it as it is, so it would not turn into a money pit :-)
I will probably buy some print bite for the bed though. Have it ordered for my M150, and see how it works out there first.

I've tried printbite, for ABS I wasn't happy with it. It needs temperatures of 115-120 to get good adhesion with ABS, which leads to lower wall cave-in on the parts.

I'm happy with PEI, it only requires 100-105, which isn't high enough to cause those lower wall effects.

I only print PLA, so I hope it works better.

Printed a cool canon on the kossel
[www.thingiverse.com]











Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2016 12:56PM by SJN.

Printed a 3dbenchy boat.....probably the neatest benchy that I have printed so far :-)

That... is spectacular!! You've obviously worked hard on those settings. What layer height are you using?

Looks good! But your top infill could be better?

It was my first try with 0.1mm layer height :-)

Was just amazed with the result.
There was quite alot of stringing that I removed before taking the pics.
I need to lower the temp when printing so thin layers.

settings for 0.3 :-) and 0.2mm dont work for 0.1mm :-)

Yes, could probably use a bit more material in the extruder.....needs more tweaking :-)


There is also a little ghosing if you look closely, and the is 100% due to my belts a little too loose.
I need to tighten them up.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/31/2016 10:31AM by SJN.

Hi again folks

I post here my kossel mini construction altough even almost everybody knows how it is done,
but I hope that these pictures help newbie reprapers (like me) to get started..
Like I said in the earlier post that I bought aluminum corners and these have M5 sized holes and sintron
kit has M3 holes (including screws and T-nuts naturally)

First I needed to enlarge the countersunks of the corner pieces because screws that I bought had a standard sized head and they did not fit properly


I did not had a proper countersunk tool so I did enlargement with the normal drill.. that is why countersunks are bit too wide, but I am OK with that..



secondly I inserted, or at least tried to, "standard every hardware store" M5 nuts to the 2020 beams

did not quite fit..f&@#* and have no time to order proper ones.. so I needed to wetsand all nuts that I need



after couple of hours all 53 nuts are sanded and now those nuts goes their place like dad goes into mom..



now frame assembly is like rock 'n roll



after bottom and top "triangels" are assembled its time to mount stepper motors..
while I did researching about this kossel mini 3d printer (after I had bought it [yes in this order..great me], I saw on youtube that someone had vibration dampers installed and I tracked down such things from ebay to my kossel

now some masking and painting




After paint dried I tapped dampers with M3 tap.. actually there was threads but I decided to open those because there was some paint on..



mounting damper to steper motor happens with the screws that sintron provides, but screws needs to cut to right lenght



notice that there is nut allready in because after the cutting you need to file off the excessive material and then unscrew the nut, this helps if the threads are gone bad or so during the cut job..



now do some unscrew




now idlebearing, motors and dampers are mounted



I post again some more pictures and text when I have time..

This sounds good

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Sir_Death

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GrAndAG
I can suggest buying solid state relay to connect heating bed via it. It will eliminate all problems with mosfet and fuse overheating.

Much cheaper (and easier) way is to just solder a wire to the Gate Signal of the internal MOSFET and place a IRF540Z external - connect Heatbed there....
Wire from RAMPS to GATE of MOSFET
"-" from Powersupply to SOURCE of MOSFET
"+" from Powersupply to Heatbed, other Wire from Heatbed to DRAIN of MOSFET
(Configuration is called "Low Side Switch")

IRF540Z does not need any cooling for up to 10Amps.. - I have no FAN blowing on it, and no Heatsink mounted.
Heatbed gets hot verry fast, IRF540 stays absolute cool, RAMPS stays cool too.

And with this config, you can easily change heatbed to 24V - just make sure "-" from both Powersupplies are connected together, and connect +24V direct to Heatbed like mentioned above...

Mister death could you say, that can this kind of a configuration work with single powersupply..?? I am a bit worried about same ground..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2017 02:22AM by OG.

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OG
someone had vibration dampers installed and I tracked down such things from ebay to my kossel

So, it's worth it? Do they perform well?
I ended up with 8 mm silicone leg pads. That's made my printer almost silent, just weak buzzing sound from motors.

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GrAndAG

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OG
someone had vibration dampers installed and I tracked down such things from ebay to my kossel

So, it's worth it? Do they perform well?
I ended up with 8 mm silicone leg pads. That's made my printer almost silent, just weak buzzing sound from motors.

I don't know because my kossel is still under construction.. But in this video guy says that these really reduce noise. I must rely on that infomation for now, but I inform when I get my kossel up and running..

On my various Delta builds, I've used felt pieces cut in shape to dampen vibrations. Now I'm using printed TPU dampers, with the same result.
But I'm always afraid the steppers could be mounted to loose, giving me bad results on direction changes.
The best noise reduction is a silent stepper driver, like TMC2100 or RAPS128. Noise that isn't made, doesn't need to be dampened

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o_lampe
On my various Delta builds, I've used felt pieces cut in shape to dampen vibrations. Now I'm using printed TPU dampers, with the same result.
But I'm always afraid the steppers could be mounted to loose, giving me bad results on direction changes.
The best noise reduction is a silent stepper driver, like TMC2100 or RAPS128. Noise that isn't made, doesn't need to be dampened

Thank you pal!! This kind of information is more valuable than gold for newbies like me..

Did you print this TPU filament with bowden extruder..?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2017 03:55AM by OG.

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Did you print this TPU filament with bowden extruder..?

No, in my case it was a direct extruder, but a workmate of me made some parts with a short Bowden tube ( Hobbyking TinyBoy ) and it worked. Just don't use retraction.

Hi again..
Next I tought that it is time to assemble the carriages, but as we all know wheels and bearings are bit wobbly due to M5 screw and bearing mismatch

but before I start I dip legs, that I bought for kossel, into rubber comp



I needed a soda can, so time to drink some coca cola



I measured 5mm wide stripes from soda can, one for every wheel.



Then I cut them to right size and lenght



After "hand crafting" is over it is time to try put wheels, screws and carriages together..

but first I needed to open up the screw holes



Now I could place wheels to carriages.. It was easiest to hold "shimmer" plate with tweezers and push wheel on



Now is time to tap vertical rails with M6 sized tool



Next I sat the vertical rails on


after that I put the screw legs on



And now I could slide carriages and top triangle on



Finally I could assemble diagonal rods, efector and hotend

hi again

I got to ask, maybe a stupid question, but I ask it anyway

How have you guys installed heat bed insulation have you attached insulation directly against heated bed or have you left some sort of air gap between insulation and heatbed?

no insulation on mine.....