Is it just me ?

I recently finished building my Delta and can honestly say I've had more headaches then enjoyment out of it so far, first the calibration was a pain, then the extruder wasn't putting enough filament to the hotend, now that I can actually print something at a very reduced speed due to bad extruder setup (waiting for a new setup), now my part is delaminating like crazy, I'm almost ready to throw in the towel, are others experiencing this too, or is it just me ?

Also does PLA delaminate more than ABS ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2015 06:52PM by jmf.

PLA will break along the layers if subjected to enough force. This needs to be taken into consideration when printing load-bearing parts. But in normal printing and use, I don't have a problem with PLA delaminating. Perhaps your temperatures are a bit low, so that the extruded PLA doesn't bond properly to the previous layer. What temperatures are you using?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I'm using a E3DV6 running at 200C on the hotend and around 65C on the bed, but I'm not sure if that temp is really 200C, should I bump it up and see what happens, also could it be because I'm running it very slow for now, between 15mm and 30mm per sec.

Thanks,
John

I think that it's just you. Everyone else's printers here went together without a hitch, and mine didn't even need calibration!

Seriously though, we all get frustrated at times, and most of us probably have a pile of printer parts that didn't work out for one reason or another. Take a step back, take a break, and look at every problem with a fresh perspective as they pop up.....

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vreihen
I think that it's just you. Everyone else's printers here went together without a hitch, and mine didn't even need calibration!

Seriously though, we all get frustrated at times, and most of us probably have a pile of printer parts that didn't work out for one reason or another. Take a step back, take a break, and look at every problem with a fresh perspective as they pop up.....

LOL, thanks !

At least I am seeing some progress.

I get delamination in PLA on both of my printers below 225 degrees
In fact, my best bonding and accuratesse is between 235 end 240

Thomas

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

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Replace
I get delamination in PLA on both of my printers below 225 degrees
In fact, my best bonding and accuratesse is between 235 end 240

Thomas

Thanks, I'll give the higher temps a try..

John

If you are having to print slowly because the extruder can't push the filament through the hot end at higher speeds, that could be another indication that the hot end temperature is lower than the reading you are getting. Are you sure you have the correct thermistor parameters configured in the software?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

dc42 -

That's what I'm beginning to think, I'm checking config right now.

I'm using a temp gun on the hot end and it's not even close to what I'm thinking it should be, are temp guns an accurate way of reading the hot end temps?

I increased to 220c and it seems much better, I'll keep experimenting a bit, the extruder wasn't working as hard either.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2015 10:22PM by jmf.

What I found useful when fault finding my extruder was to try and manually push filament though the length of the Bowden tube and hot end. I did it first with the nozzle removed to eliminate any tight spots or restrictions then installed to nozzle back to the heater block and tried again. Initially I found I could barely push any filament through and found there was solid plastic in the melt chamber that for some reason wouldn't melt. I removed the nozzle and heated it gently with a blow torch and by hand rotated a 2mm drill in the back of the nozzle to remove the plastic plug. This cleared the nozzle and after installing back into the head was able to easily push filament through by hand and extrude through the nozzle.

I also found the K value in the firmware was set at a default to 4022 which suits most 100k thermistors and I had forgotten to change the value to 3974.

I am using a 5:1 reduction extruder from Infill 3D found here I have run it very fast with no problems

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My delta build blogspot [d3delta3d.blogspot.com.au]

Custom Delta printer
300x500 build volume
magnetic effector
Smoothieboard controlled

d3delta3d,

Thanks for your input I really appreciate all the information I can get,
I'm not sure what you mean by the K number in firmware and why you changed the number, I'm using Marlin.

That's a nice looking extruder in the link.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2015 10:23PM by jmf.

Hi . My post was a little unclear. Some firmware will have the most popular thermistor types programmed into the them like EPCOS100K or HONNEYWELL100K and luckily mine did. These will load in the Beta Value(K) of the thermocouple automatically. Because I purchased a unbranded Thermistor the company selling it included the beta Value (K) value in the description which for mine was 3974. This meant that for my firmware I added the line temperature_control.hotend.beta 3974 which lets firmware the know how to read the resistance of my thermistor to report the correct temperature. This is how Smoothieboard deals with them, and Marlin is a little different but this post might help.

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My delta build blogspot [d3delta3d.blogspot.com.au]

Custom Delta printer
300x500 build volume
magnetic effector
Smoothieboard controlled

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d3delta3d
Hi . My post was a little unclear. Some firmware will have the most popular thermistor types programmed into the them like EPCOS100K or HONNEYWELL100K and luckily mine did. These will load in the Beta Value(K) of the thermocouple automatically. Because I purchased a unbranded Thermistor the company selling it included the beta Value (K) value in the description which for mine was 3974. This meant that for my firmware I added the line temperature_control.hotend.beta 3974 which lets firmware the know how to read the resistance of my thermistor to report the correct temperature. This is how Smoothieboard deals with them, and Marlin is a little different but this post might help.

This is true with Smoothieware but is totally different in Marlin where each type of thermistor is given a number and that is what needs to be defined to do this you really need to know what you have or replace it with a known one such as a semitec s104 (I think that's the one) these are what is used in a original E3D hotend and are number 5 in the Marlin config.

A lot of the Chinese one seem to have a beta value of 3950 and I don't think there is one in the Marlin table that matches that but I could be wrong as I use Repetier firmware.

HTH

Doug

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jmf
I'm using a temp gun on the hot end and it's not even close to what I'm thinking it should be, are temp guns an accurate way of reading the hot end temps?

If you are referring to one of the non-contact IR guns with the laser pointer, the answer is no. They measure the temperature average over a large area, even up close. Mine also wouldn't even get close to the thermistor reading.....

d3delta3d, dougal1957 - thanks for the clarification, I also have a smoothieboard waiting in the wings for another 3d printer project or I may put it into the current delta I am running with a Rambo board.

vreihen - Yeah, it's an IR gun, they really are useless for pinpoint temp readings, I wonder if there is a better way to verify actual hotend temperatures without relying solely on the thermistor.

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jmf
d3delta3d, dougal1957 - thanks for the clarification, I also have a smoothieboard waiting in the wings for another 3d printer project or I may put it into the current delta I am running with a Rambo board.

vreihen - Yeah, it's an IR gun, they really are useless for pinpoint temp readings, I wonder if there is a better way to verify actual hotend temperatures without relying solely on the thermistor.

You can get multimeters that have a thermocouple measurement probe for Temps such as Fluke 87 multimeter this wont be the cheapest device out there but should give you some idea.

Where in the World are you based it may help someone give you better advise on what is available in your country

ie in the uk This one is cheap enough

HTH Doug

dougal1957 - That's a very nice looking multimeter/probe, I'm located in NE Ohio.
Thanks for the idea, I'll check out Ebay asap..

I used a mulitimeter with a type K probe to check my temperature. The probe end is only about 0.5mm diameter. I also put heat transfer paste in the testing hole to ensure good thermal conductivity from the heat block to the probe.

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My delta build blogspot [d3delta3d.blogspot.com.au]

Custom Delta printer
300x500 build volume
magnetic effector
Smoothieboard controlled

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jmf
I'm located in NE Ohio.

That's the USA, for those who are on the other side of the pond and don't know our states.....

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vreihen

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jmf
I'm located in NE Ohio.

That's the USA, for those who are on the other side of the pond and don't know our states.....

Actually I did know that but I get where your coming from LOL

I have a [SINTRON] 3D Printer full complete Kit for Reprap Prusa i3 ,MK3 heatbed,LCD,MK8
the temp reads 499 all the time.
I metered it and I get no reading at all.
What am I doing wrong

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Paul Babcock
I have a [SINTRON] 3D Printer full complete Kit for Reprap Prusa i3 ,MK3 heatbed,LCD,MK8
the temp reads 499 all the time.
I metered it and I get no reading at all.
What am I doing wrong

posting in the wrong place, for a start

The higher the resistance the higher the temperature.
Your thermister is either broken or one or both wires to the thermistor is broken (no connection).

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
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