Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Sorry, my bad I forgot about the Vcc to 5v jumper.
In 1.4 RAMPS you have to short them to enable Servo ports.
See picture attached.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/03/2016 09:20PM by paul_delta.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Here is that part of the instruction PDF, that causes all these questions. Advise needed.
NOTE: seeing your new posting right now. Big thanks. We're getting closer. :-D
So, I have to connect the pins 2 and 3 together?



SIDE NOTE
Also making some thoughts to combine many of the Kossel Reprap 2020 parts with parts of a CLIP 3D printer (liquid resin tank), this way I could create very large parts, and around 25x to100x faster than with a filament-based 3D printer...

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2016 04:46AM by Sven.L.

Quote
spiffcow
Is your calculator code available? I'm wondering what would happen if I just plugged 100+ points into it

It's written in Javascript, so you can view the source in your browser. The C++ source it is derived from is in my RepRapFirmware github repo.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

You don't need the jumpers I Xed out. They're for E1, a second extruder, you only need the jumpers on E0, the first extruder.

Quote
Sven.L
Here is that part of the instruction PDF, that causes all these questions. Advise needed.
NOTE: seeing your new posting right now. Big thanks. We're getting closer. :-D
So, I have to connect the pins 2 and 3 together?

[attachment 71631 Photo7461c.jpg] [attachment 71632 Photo7460.jpg]

SIDE NOTE
Also making some thoughts to combine many of the Kossel Reprap 2020 parts with parts of a CLIP 3D printer (liquid resin tank), this way I could create very large parts, and around 25x to100x faster than with a filament-based 3D printer...

Has anyone tried this to get their firmware? Repetier Firmware

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Yes, I know, Legrand. My only remaining concern is, if I should connect the three pins of the X probe servo location on the RAMP board. Paul gave a sketch, where it seems, only pin 2 and 3 need to be connected to each other with a jumper. On that I need verification if I understand correctly. I have not much knowledge with electrical circuits, thus I prefer to understand fully before doing anything. I want to prevent any damage because of wrong-doing, that's why.

Paul wrote:
Vcc to 5v jumper: In 1.4 RAMPS you have to short them to enable Servo ports

"The 5V pin in that connector on RAMPS only supplies the 5V to the auxiliary servo connectors. It is designed so that you can jumper it to the VCC pin and use the Arduino's power supply to supply 5V for extra servos if you are only powered from USB or 5V. Since there is not a lot of extra power from the Arduino's power supply you can connect it directly to your 5V power supply if you have one. You can also leave this pin not connected if you have no plan to add extra servos. "

[reprap.org]

Quote
Sven.L
Yes, I know, Legrand. My only remaining concern is, if I should connect the three pins of the X probe servo location on the RAMP board. Paul gave a sketch, where it seems, only pin 2 and 3 need to be connected to each other with a jumper. On that I need verification if I understand correctly. I have not much knowledge with electrical circuits, thus I prefer to understand fully before doing anything. I want to prevent any damage because of wrong-doing, that's why.

Paul wrote:
Vcc to 5v jumper: In 1.4 RAMPS you have to short them to enable Servo ports

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Thanks. I did it this way now. Correct?


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2016 03:53PM by Sven.L.

Did you ever get a smoothieboard config? I'm in the same boat have mine hooked up and running just looking to figure out best speeds etc.

Thanks

I've finally finished the manual calibration. It's not super perfect, but it's the best I'm willing to do tonight, or until I get the push fit piece so I can print. Just to double check with how to set the Z-probe offset, if the X=26 and Y=-16 when the probe is over the center of the build plate, do I inverse the values making X=-26 and Y=16, or do I keep them as is?

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Quote
Sven.L
Thanks. I did it this way now. Correct?
[attachment 71742 Photo7470.jpg]

Yes. Cover top driver contacts that are close to heartsink with kapton tape. Heatsink may move because of heat and short these contacts destroying driver or RAMPS.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Easy to check. Go to X0 Y0 Z5 and run G30 command. The probe should move over X0 Y0 and then go down to measure the height.

Quote
Captain_Tim
I've finally finished the manual calibration. It's not super perfect, but it's the best I'm willing to do tonight, or until I get the push fit piece so I can print. Just to double check with how to set the Z-probe offset, if the X=26 and Y=-16 when the probe is over the center of the build plate, do I inverse the values making X=-26 and Y=16, or do I keep them as is?

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Quote
paul_delta
Easy to check. Go to X0 Y0 Z5 and run G30 command. The probe should move over X0 Y0 and then go down to measure the height.

Quote
Captain_Tim
I've finally finished the manual calibration. It's not super perfect, but it's the best I'm willing to do tonight, or until I get the push fit piece so I can print. Just to double check with how to set the Z-probe offset, if the X=26 and Y=-16 when the probe is over the center of the build plate, do I inverse the values making X=-26 and Y=16, or do I keep them as is?

Didn't think of doing that. Perfect, thanks again Paul. So I guess you inverse the result. Makes sense.

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Owner of a QUBD Two Up
And
Folger Kossel 2020
And
Tevo Tarantula

Kapton Take. yes, very good suggestion, will do that for sure. See the photo. Meanwhile, I added more kapton tape below the small sides of each heatsink. Thanks! And thanks, too, for your patience with me. :-)



Now another question that I need to resolve. See the other attached photo. These are some small white plastic parts, but I didn't discover in my PDF instructions manual, for what I need these parts. There are also three screws inside: two small ones, and one tiny one. What are these parts needed for?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2016 10:34PM by Sven.L.

This is set of 3 servo arms and screws to attach them to the servo. I don't know what kind of z-probe arm you have in your kit, if any. Probably you will not need these white parts at all.

PS: for example here is the arm on Thingiverse. For this arm you will need the shortest white plastic part [www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
Sven.L
Now another question that I need to resolve. See the other attached photo. These are some small white plastic parts, but I didn't discover in my PDF instructions manual, for what I need these parts. There are also three screws inside: two small ones, and one tiny one. What are these parts needed for?
[attachment 71769 Photo7471.jpg]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2016 10:23PM by paul_delta.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

I'm trying to get my offset correct as well and I tried this with mine and the probe did nothing? I ran the G29 and then sent a G30.

Nevermind. I re-read the past posts and figured it out. Thanks.

OK... How do you change the diameter it's probing at? I'm building a large delta with a 12" plate and will need to modify this eventually.

Quote
paul_delta
Easy to check. Go to X0 Y0 Z5 and run G30 command. The probe should move over X0 Y0 and then go down to measure the height.

Quote
Captain_Tim
I've finally finished the manual calibration. It's not super perfect, but it's the best I'm willing to do tonight, or until I get the push fit piece so I can print. Just to double check with how to set the Z-probe offset, if the X=26 and Y=-16 when the probe is over the center of the build plate, do I inverse the values making X=-26 and Y=16, or do I keep them as is?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/05/2016 08:20AM by Legrand.

I really like the Kossel Reprap 2020 self-assemble kit. But what I hate and see as a BIG weakness and problem, are all these bolts made of that soft metallic wax!

Alone of those M3x8 bolts, I lost over 30 of them because they are so soft, that the specialized screwdriver and the hex keys cannot rotate them anymore! Nor can I get them out the normal way in order to replace them with others of that sort. I had to purchase some kit to remove damaged screws and bolts, drill them, and use that tool.

And since I was finally so short on many types of bolts, I had to purchase new ones locally here. I made sure, that the ones I purchased, were made of steel instead of that silverish wax material. Those are strong and give me finally a good success rate in assembling. They are darker than that silverish wax, but strong.

And they are cheap, too. To replace all of those waxy bolts (same amount, that is), I paid not more than 7 US$. Why were those not included in the kit? It appears to me, there is a saving at the wrong spot. As a buyer, I really don't mind to pay 3, 4, five or even 7 US$ more, just to ensure I can complete assembly without problems and time delays and frustration and forced new replacement purchases.

This remark goes straight to the company FolgerTech. I will send it to them by e-mail, too.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/05/2016 11:00PM by Sven.L.

(deleted because I posted it twice, sorry)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 06:52AM by Sven.L.

Quote
Legrand
OK... How do you change the diameter it's probing at? I'm building a large delta with a 12" plate and will need to modify this eventually.

#define AUTOLEVEL_GRID 20

"should be less than print surface radius/3"

Quote
EvilBetty

It's looking more and more like my effector plate is also to blame. Mine measures fine in the dimensions you show, but I think it's the alignment of the holes / warping that is to blame.

I'll know for sure when the aluminum one arrives Thursday.

-EB

Ordered late Monday night.

But of course I couldn't wait, especially not knowing how long it would take for them to arrive... I began measuring and fiddling again.

There are so many things that can be configured for a 3D printer, between the hardware, the firmware, and the software. Which means plenty of things you can screw up.

First mistake I made over a week ago, was raising the probe height when I thought it was hitting the prints. That set me back big time. It wasn't until Thursday that I realized that red light on the probe was only lighting up on part of the bed. I then realized that it wasn't lighting up on the outer edges in some spots even before, specifically the ones I was having problems with the nozzle hitting the bed.

I got the probe adjusted best I could, and then spent the day trying to get the effector leveled out with little success. There was just something not right about it, and it there was too much play in my opinion.

Wednesday I tried to get the Z_MAX and Z_PROBE_OFFSET set, but with the probe not always triggering, I gave up.

Got my parts on Thursday. Very quick turn around time from Folger Tech for in stock parts. I got the aluminum effector plate, and a 2004 LCD.

Of course I have to first hook the LCD. I mean it lights up blue and shows me numbers and letters that are the same as in Repetier, and it has a SD slot! (But... I no longer have a SD card reader for my PC... worry about that later.)

Then I tear down the effector plate. Forgot what a pain in the ass that was with those little M3 lock nuts tucked up around the fan mount. I then realize the aluminum plate didn't come with any hardware as the site described. Test fit the ones from the plastic part, nope, too long. Had a bunch of shorter M3 screws leftover from the kit. First one seems to fit, great! Well not so much. Two of the holes were not threaded well, and would not accept the full length of the screws. A little dremel and some torque first using a harder M3 bolt, and it was finally done. I break out the calipers, and sure enough all sides are pretty damn close. So I compare that to the carriages. It looks like all those washers I added to match the widths on the plastic effector need to come off.

Once the washers were off, all the measurements on the effector and carriages were all within .2mm. And what do you know? The damn Z probe lights up everywhere on the bed now! Plate moving MUCH more level, and very little play.

I fire up the printer to check calibration. When that's done, I kick off a test print. Somethings not right... I notice the bed temperature is bottomed out. Just had to go and install that LCD right away... and in the process must have bumped the sensor lead on the board. It wasn't loose or noticeably "off", but a little wiggle and it was back up.

The good news is that all the prints were level and flat across the whole bed. But the first layer height was off and I couldn't seem to get it right. Resorting to fiddling with layer height and width settings in Slic3r I must of done something bad, because I ended up with a partially clogged nozzle. Extruder was clicking every few mm. So I spent the night playing with a torch and burning pretty colors from the nozzle. That was a bonus I guess.

Today I finally figured out the mystery that is the Z Probe and it's relation to the MAX Z in Marlin. Everywhere I went looking for documentation or videos, wanted you set your Z_MAX after homing, then enter various "M" g code commands to set the Z_OFFSET and level the bed. Any of those codes I entered in Repetier might as well have been in Klingon. No response in Repetier, and M203 would not show the codes stored.

I don't know about you guys but that is not how it worked for me what worked was this:

1. Set your Smooth Rod length from measurements.
2. Get a piece of paper and put a dot on it. Take your nozzle down until it's near enough you can tell it's directly over it (X0,Y0,Z3, or something)
3. Move the paper until the dot is directly under the nozzle.
4. Move your Probe with manual controls, centering it over the dot (DON'T move the paper...)
3. Make note of the new X,Y co-ordinates, and enter those for the X,Y values in the Z_PROBE_OFFSET. (For me, these values were inverse (-/+).
4. Using a piece of paper, get your Z max height. Add a couple mm to it, and enter it in Marlin as MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS, and in Repetier for Printable Height.
5. Run G28, then G29. First check and make sure you're getting values in the log window that are above your Z_PROBE_OFFSET value for Z. If it's at "-.6", you don't want to see any "-0.600"'s showing up in the log. If you do, adjust your probes physical height.
6. Repeat G28, then G29, and while the motors are still running, check your Z0 with the paper test again. If it's too high or too low, you need to adjust your Z_PROBE_OFFSET value for Z.
7. Moving more (-) lowers the nozzle. Moving more (+) raises the nozzle (this took so long to keep straight in my head.)

With all that done, you should be ready to head to Slic3r to do some initial configuration and test your first print. If it's convex / concave, or too tall / too wide, you need to adjust your DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET, until it's right.

While you're in un-comment the two EEPROM lines.

Make sure your including "G29 S2" in your Slic3r startup g code.

Hope this helps someone.

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There's No Place Like 127.0.0.1

Hi again. A question:

BELT

Now I need information or assistance in regards to the belts. Look at my photos: I wrapped the belt around the blocks, and used the black zip ties to fix it. The result is not too firm. Thus I used for the belt fixing a little bit glue in addition, but just between both belt pieces wrapped around the lower block. I did not (yet) add any glue between the two belt pieces that are wrapped around the upper block.

The instruction manual says, I need to rotate the upper screw (that one with the washer) in order to tighten the belt somehow. But doing so, I do not see any tightening effect. Do I misunderstand something in that manual? Did I do everything correctly? Please advise me. Thanks.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 01:13PM by Sven.L.

Quote
Sven.L
Hi again. A question:

BELT

Now I need information or assistance in regards to the belts. Look at my photos: I wrapped the belt around the blocks, and used the black zip ties to fix it. The result is not too firm. Thus I used for the belt fixing a little bit glue in addition, but just between both belt pieces wrapped around the lower block. I did not (yet) add any glue between the two belt pieces that are wrapped around the upper block.

The instruction manual says, I need to rotate the upper screw (that one with the washer) in order to tighten the belt somehow. But doing so, I do not see any tightening effect. Do I misunderstand something in that manual? Did I do everything correctly? Please advise me. Thanks.

You should not need to glue or use multiple zip ties on your belts. With the belt teeth facing each other as you do, and one zip tie should be enough to keep them from slipping once under tension.

Your belts are too long, and your upper truss assembly too high.

Loosen your upper assembly screws that affix it to the vertical rails.

Loosen the adjuster screws all the way, but still engaged in the nut below the corner piece.

Lower your upper assembly until the heads of the adjuster screws are are resting on top of the vertical beams.

Adjust your belts until they they are reasonably tight, without having to hand stretch anything.

You will take up the slack that is left and tighten the belts by tightening the screws or manually raising the upper assembly.

Tighten the screws that attach the upper assembly to the vertical rails, making sure the assembly is still square and parallel.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 06:27PM by EvilBetty.

Hi EvilBetty,

thanks for your answer. My appreciation.

Looking to the details of your answer, I have some questions: I followed all measures given by the instruction PDF, when I mounted the rails and cut the six arms to the length specified in the instructions. I didn't make any change to any measure given. How comes that the belts and the upper truss assembly are too high? Do you mean the distance between stopper and ceiling truss? At the moment, the distance is only 2.5 inch between the lower edge of the ceiling trust and the highest part of the stopper.

The heads of the adjuster screws are already resting on top of the vertical beams. The only option would be, to lift the entire upper truss a bit, in order to tighten the belts. on the contrary, I could not lower the upper ceiling truss to decrease the distance between ceiling truss and stopper for much. So, raising the entire ceiling truss, might do the trick to tighten the belts. Here the problem is only, that those screws on top are too soft, I cannot rotate them anymore. I wished, Folger Tech could have decided to use steel screws, and not that silverish wax material that is way too soft.

UPDATE

Okay, I raised the entire ceiling truss carefully. The belts are now wonderfully tight. I will have to find something hard that I can push into the resulting gap between the vertical aluminum rod and the washer of the screw. Maybe some small piece of hardwood or so.

UPDATE

I used pieces of some copper rod I had! Should be fine now. All belts are tight. If they are tight enough, I will have to find out later.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 02:33AM by Sven.L.

Alright, here is another question that came up - remember, I am not experienced with electrical work, and have to ask more than others here, therefore.

The wires are supposed to be soldered to the heatbed. Left and right are silver squares, to which I am soldering the red and black wire. The thermistor double cable has to find its place in the middle. But is it in any way to be soldered to the small silver squares in between the two big silver squares? Or do I have to use only the yellow kapton tape to fix it to its position? And where is the best position for that small glass head at the end of the cable? Does that glass head have to touch the surface (as I believe it has to)?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 11:36PM by Sven.L.

Quote
Sven.L
Alright, here is another question that came up - remember, I am not experienced with electrical work, and have to ask more than others here, therefore.

The wires are supposed to be soldered to the heatbed. Left and right are silver squares, to which I am soldering the red and black wire. The thermistor double cable has to find its place in the middle. But is it in any way to be soldered to the small silver squares in between the two big silver squares? Or do I have to use only the yellow kapton tape to fix it to its position? And where is the best position for that small glass head at the end of the cable? Does that glass head have to touch the surface (as I believe it has to)?
]

KosselRevBBuildGuideV1.01.pdf [drive.google.com]

Page 28 and 29.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 02:09AM by EvilBetty.

Hi Betty,

yes, I saw that manual already, but there are so many parts inside, that are different from the parts used inside my printer kit. Not only that the corner pieces are metallic there, but many parts have different shapes, different amount of bolts, and even different functions. I am not so sure, if that manual is as compatible to my printer construction as required.

I did the soldering already, yesterday. Seems I did it correctly.

But now I am facing a serious problem: it seems, some of the cables are missing.
Missing is the cable (red and black, two ends on the one side, a double connector on the other side) to be soldered onto the z probe switch.

If I would know, how that cable looks and especially how the connector is looking, I could try to purchase cables somewhere, and if I am lucky, maybe even such a connector (here in Jamaica really very difficult). I am feeling frustrated and sad.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 06:10AM by Sven.L.

This is the twin pin connector you're looking for:

Quote
Sven.L
Hi Betty,

yes, I saw that manual already, but there are so many parts inside, that are different from the parts used inside my printer kit. Not only that the corner pieces are metallic there, but many parts have different shapes, different amount of bolts, and even different functions. I am not so sure, if that manual is as compatible to my printer construction as required.

I did the soldering already, yesterday. Seems I did it correctly.

But now I am facing a serious problem: it seems, some of the cables are missing.
Missing is the cable (red and black, two ends on the one side, a double connector on the other side) to be soldered onto the z probe switch.

If I would know, how that cable looks and especially how the connector is looking, I could try to purchase cables somewhere, and if I am lucky, maybe even such a connector (here in Jamaica really very difficult). I am feeling frustrated and sad.

Thanks! And it was not among the things I received. Now I have a real problem. I cannot find any shop in Jamaica that sells those kind of things.

Quote
Sven.L
If I would know, how that cable looks and especially how the connector is looking, I could try to purchase cables somewhere, and if I am lucky, maybe even such a connector (here in Jamaica really very difficult). I am feeling frustrated and sad.

All connectors are Dupont 2.54mm style. You can buy a bunch of jumper wires like this one [www.amazon.com] , cut them and solder to your wires. If you want, you may glue 2 or 3 connectors together.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/08/2016 07:32AM by paul_delta.

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My [www.thingiverse.com] stuff, my configuration of Repetier 0.92.6: [forums.reprap.org] (use Arduino 1.6.5 to compile)

Hi,

I cannot get anywhere those 2-pin connectors, I went to more than 15 shops earlier this day. But I purchased, in hope they can fit, these parts you see on the attached photo below. Let's see and hope, at least one of these two types can fit.