Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

One of the things I wanted to upgrade was the bed, so after I got my laser cutter I cut this piece and assembled the bed as follows.

Video showing the aluminum bed is NOT flat!! It's bowed in the middle.





Silicone rubber mat between hotbed and wood.



Wood underneath the mat



Bed mounted into position and cleaned up



Side shot of the bed after mounting.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2015 12:13AM by thevisad.

All of the acrylic has been replaced on the machine now, all the endstops top and bottom are 6 mm aluminum. Some test parts being verified for size and proper shape to mount the new optisensors.





Moving the filament to the top of the printer instead of mounting it on the side, which would allow for mounting multiple extruders on top.





The size of the old effector next to the new effector



The new metal effector from Robotdig, yes it is slightly smaller then the original effector.



New metal carriages from Robotdigg, I used the same style (closed loop belt carriages) that Folgertech had originally provided and did not get the tightening version for non closed loop.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2015 12:14AM by thevisad.

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thevisad

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cman8

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tadawson

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cman8
Can anyone whom uses the lcd tell me how to print from sd card. I can't get mine to print no matter what I've tried.

Click for the menu. Scroll to 'Print from SD', click to select. Scroll to the file you want to print, click to select. The printer should home, heat, and print at this point. If not, verify that the temps it is trying to hit are rational . . . it won't start until both extruder and bed are up to temp.

- Tim

Tim. Everything works as should but when it comes time to print, the nozzle comes down as it's written in my g code but never starts to print. I'm starting to think this lad doesn't actually work as my conversations with folgertech and reading here don't seem to look very promising. I really would like to just print form the lcd but looks like I might just be hooking up and old computer to print from.

If I remember correctly, the printer will do this and wait there until temps are stable. If you look at the feedback in the software, it should give you a feedback about how hot the end is, the bed is and the last item is a number. This will count down from 9 when it's ready to print. If you have your bed or hot end too high and it can't reach that, it will just sit there trying to get to temp.

Got it to work. Thanks for the input. Apparantly I had to plug the USB into an external power source to juice the LCD. No biggie since I have a USB port on y bench thats always unused, till now.

Thevisad, did you get my PM by chance?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/25/2015 11:38PM by cman8.

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cman8

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thevisad

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cman8

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tadawson

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cman8
Can anyone whom uses the lcd tell me how to print from sd card. I can't get mine to print no matter what I've tried.

Click for the menu. Scroll to 'Print from SD', click to select. Scroll to the file you want to print, click to select. The printer should home, heat, and print at this point. If not, verify that the temps it is trying to hit are rational . . . it won't start until both extruder and bed are up to temp.

- Tim

Tim. Everything works as should but when it comes time to print, the nozzle comes down as it's written in my g code but never starts to print. I'm starting to think this lad doesn't actually work as my conversations with folgertech and reading here don't seem to look very promising. I really would like to just print form the lcd but looks like I might just be hooking up and old computer to print from.

If I remember correctly, the printer will do this and wait there until temps are stable. If you look at the feedback in the software, it should give you a feedback about how hot the end is, the bed is and the last item is a number. This will count down from 9 when it's ready to print. If you have your bed or hot end too high and it can't reach that, it will just sit there trying to get to temp.

Got it to work. Thanks for the input. Apparantly I had to plug the USB into an external power source to juice the LCD. No biggie since I have a USB port on y bench thats always unused, till now.

Thevisad, did you get my PM by chance?

Yeah the USB is just not enough to power the LCD on some of the Ramps. The two pin Jumper that you connect for the servo can instead be connected to an external power supply to power up the 5v rail.

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wrangellboy
Thanks for the reply. I'll keep trying to figure out what's wrong with that corner.

On an unrelated note, I tried to use your updated version of marlin and was unable to get the z axis to zero out. Like another poster the closest I could get it even with negative z values was about 10mm above the bed. Running the folgertech firmware everything works just fine, all my other measurements check out as far as the build. Any thoughts?

Thanks again!

I would check both set screws, I bet its slipping under higher torque.

Folgertech firmware was using the wrong steps per mm, so if you built your machine with that and then calibrated, you will need to recalibrate once you convert to mine. You may even need to move the rails down a bit if they are too high, which is sounds like they are. When I built and configured my machine I found that the Folgertech firmware showed it at 240mm when it was really at 256mm due to the misconfiguration. This is why I recommend grabbing a yard stick (Harbor Freight has a solid aluminum one that starts at the edge for 3.99), placing it on the bed and lining up the tip of the hot end to measure the distance visually. It should be roughly 253 + - a few mm.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2015 12:07AM by thevisad.

There was a recent post with a link for a different filament spool holder that rests on top of the machine - i've created a filament guide to use the spare rods that come with the folgertech kit. Let me know what you all think! [www.thingiverse.com]

I am currently printing a couple sets out now and will post some pics soon

I think I've narrowed it down to one of my linear rails sucking. One of the three has always been worse and I think that's the root cause. I think it was causing my stepper on that tower to overheat and skip steps. I've finished a couple 1/2 hour or so prints now by turning down the speed and putting a bag of ice on that stepper.

Folgertech warns against taking the sliders off the rails, how hard is it to take them off and check/clean/repack the bearings? I've ordered new bearings (as well as stepper motors with about 2x the torque...), but due to the warning, I'm a bit nervous about taking them apart.

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wrangellboy
I think I've narrowed it down to one of my linear rails sucking. One of the three has always been worse and I think that's the root cause. I think it was causing my stepper on that tower to overheat and skip steps. I've finished a couple 1/2 hour or so prints now by turning down the speed and putting a bag of ice on that stepper.

Folgertech warns against taking the sliders off the rails, how hard is it to take them off and check/clean/repack the bearings? I've ordered new bearings (as well as stepper motors with about 2x the torque...), but due to the warning, I'm a bit nervous about taking them apart.

Go back to page 39 and look at the second to last post, I just posted on what to look for on the bearings. You will need to buy these bearings (or from your store of choice) and look at my post. Folgertech recommends not doing this for a reason, when you slide the block off, it's very easy to loose these bearings. When you slide it back on, its very easy to strip the bearings out of the track. Even easier if you remove the wire rail inside, which some people have indicated that this helps make it smoother. I would also check your voltage on this motor and verify your within the proper range (.30-35), not sure if I saw you mention this. I found it easier to slide the block on from the top, rather then from the bottom (if you leave the rail mounted). I did not disassemble my machine to do so, simply removed the belt on that block. When your ready to put a ball in, just use your fingers and drop it on top of the wire rail, then use your fingertip to push it into place and it should "pop" into the rail. Please look at the pictures I posted previously to identify if your missing a ball or not (it seems almost all are missing 1 ball).

You can also test for this without removing the block by moving it up and down on the rail, without the belts. Allow the block to fall downwards until the balls engage and you can hear the balls moving inside (they make a light clicking noise). Then stop the block and slowly push it up and down until you feel the balls engage inside the block, do not move it past the point of them tightening and engaging. If you move the block, then start over with allowing it to drop again. You will get a section of brief movement that feels "loose" prior to the balls engaging. With no balls missing, the play should be roughly 1/4 inch or so.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2015 10:12AM by thevisad.

I've tried various different voltages on the drivers. I'm at .25 right now, which is lower than specified, but any higher and the motors get way too hot. Someone in this thread had reported better luck with the lower voltage, and so far I've actually had more luck at .25 than .35 due to the motor heat.

Thanks for the info on testing the blocks, I'll check them out when I get home from work...

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wrangellboy
I've tried various different voltages on the drivers. I'm at .25 right now, which is lower than specified, but any higher and the motors get way too hot. Someone in this thread had reported better luck with the lower voltage, and so far I've actually had more luck at .25 than .35 due to the motor heat.

Thanks for the info on testing the blocks, I'll check them out when I get home from work...

Be careful lowering your voltage too much, that will also cause the motors to overheat. I would not lower them much past .30, that might be a bit too low.

I was the guy who did .25 . . .

At .35, long prints got the motors so hot that the corners deformed . . .

At .25, I ran just warm to the touch . . . .35 really is 'at the wall' for these motors (.4A rated) so .25 really isn't down that much.

This is after 20+ hours of printing, and all my rails have loosened up and work in nicely. Were they as tight as when new, I'd be concerned about skipping steps.

In any case, I added heatsinks and fans to my motors, and run close to the recommended Vref now . . . all the torque and management of the heat problem . . .

Ultimately, I just lubed the snot out of my rails, and flushed with enough lube tomrinse the swarf out. When I stopped getting black gunk, things were pretty good . . . no idea on ball count, since, due to the length of the carriages, first I'm not certain it matters much, and second, having the clearance of one ball makes sense to me to avoid binding, so claims of 'all are missing one ball' I read as 'one ball clearance is correct and as per design' . . . the issuenis lack of slop on the rail, not will it drop 1/4" by itself . . .

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2015 02:25PM by tadawson.

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tadawson

Ultimately, I just lubed the snot out of my rails, and flushed with enough lube tomrinse the swarf out. When I stopped getting black gunk, things were pretty good . . . no idea on ball count, since, due to the length of the carriages, first I'm not certain it matters much, and second, having the clearance of one ball makes sense to me to avoid binding, so claims of 'all are missing one ball' I read as 'one ball clearance is correct and as per design' . . . the issuenis lack of slop on the rail, not will it drop 1/4" by itself . . .

- Tim

So rather then speak about stuff I am not 100% familiar with, I called the engineering division at Misumi and spoke with an engineer for the past half hour. After explaining the rail blocks we have, what the users are experiencing and what I personally saw in my own block, I was told by Greg at Misumi Engineering ( I can provide his extension for those who wish to call him) that the blocks are definitely 100% missing bearings in them. So, this is not "correct and per design, in fact when I mentioned that statement to him, he laughed and indicated that is a very common misconception. He indicated that the rail blocks should little to no space in between any bearing in the block. The fact that there are missing bearings is an indication of either the wrong rail and block combination or the wrong bearing/block combination. Having a space in the block presents an issue where the block is runningin one direction and then has to change directions causing the bearings to SLAM into the bearings in the opposite direction. This will cause flat spots on the bearings, indicated by the bearing block going "clump, clump, clump, clump" as you move the bearing block up and down. This all leads to a premature failure on the blocks and excessive lubrication to keep them quiet. I did not have a rail or the dimensions of the rail block in front of me, so he could not provide a replacement over the phone. Once I get home (unless someone can provide the L, W and H of the block) I will contact him and get a Misumi product replacement part number for these blocks.

You can see in this block there are zero spaces in between each block.




Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2015 03:47PM by thevisad.

Well,

I got mine in about a week ago. Took 3 days to build and and another 3 days to meticulously calibrate it. I only changed 1 thing from the original design, and that was to add a cork liner under the heated bed. Everything else is stock. Thanks to my Mitutoyo calipers I was able to measure everything down to the micron and be very precise on things like push rod lengths, etc. I have now run many test prints and some fun complex prints just to see how they would turn out. So far everything is within 60 microns of original spec. I'm pretty pleased considering this is my first 3D printing experience ever.

Anyone have any tips for calibrating? It seems no matter what I try the printer doesn't seem to want to work with me. And yes I did check my wiring, today I unplugged and rewire everything to make sure my axis where all plugged in where they should be.

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EdwinCal
Anyone have any tips for calibrating? It seems no matter what I try the printer doesn't seem to want to work with me. And yes I did check my wiring, today I unplugged and rewire everything to make sure my axis where all plugged in where they should be.

I would suggest you read the past 15 pages or so and go through the posts to see all of the suggestions. This page is roughly all you need to calibrate the unit to pristine measurements, but I would read over all the suggestions to understand what people have done. You can use my repo for the firmware if you like or compile your own to access the features he describes in the pages.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 08:32AM by thevisad.

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EdwinCal
Anyone have any tips for calibrating? It seems no matter what I try the printer doesn't seem to want to work with me. And yes I did check my wiring, today I unplugged and rewire everything to make sure my axis where all plugged in where they should be.

Here's the issues I ran into when calibrating.

1: Had the wrong firmware for number of teeth on the steppers. (I had 20 teeth)
2: The calibration guide has you sometimes go into negetive numbers with the G1 Z command, the firmware has a Z Min setting of 0, this will prevent you from going negetive, adjust temporarily to say -20 to allow you to go -20 on Z
3: Be as precise as you can with all your measurements, I input all mine up to the 100/th of a milimeter
4: Re-Home and measure again to make sure you have it right
5: Follow this guide (http://delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/)

I'm currently putting together my Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2002 and I'm running into an issue with mounting the hotend and end effector together.

The instructions state that the recessed part is facing down, with the compression fitting facing up. The hole, however, is not large enough to fit the ring of the hotend into the recess.

Perhaps they changed the design or sourced different parts at some point? I know they have changed suppliers on other components, such as the hardware, as the build manual pictures show different bolts in some sections. In order to bolt it in I would need hardware that is nearly twice as long, unless I enlarge that hole.

Has anyone else run into this issue?

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fattmann
I'm currently putting together my Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2002 and I'm running into an issue with mounting the hotend and end effector together.

The instructions state that the recessed part is facing down, with the compression fitting facing up. The hole, however, is not large enough to fit the ring of the hotend into the recess.

Perhaps they changed the design or sourced different parts at some point? I know they have changed suppliers on other components, such as the hardware, as the build manual pictures show different bolts in some sections. In order to bolt it in I would need hardware that is nearly twice as long, unless I enlarge that hole.

Has anyone else run into this issue?

Yup! It's called getting your knife out and carefully carving on it until it fits. You may have to do that on more then one part with this, I had to play with the carriages on mine, one wasn't quite up to par. Plastic shrinks as it cools and sometimes things are printed to perfect spec causing them to shrink a little. You can warm the parts as well which will help them slide onto the hotend a bit better. Good luck with the build, nothing like completing it and printing your first object!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 11:04AM by thevisad.

Looks like I'll have to bust out the drill bits, lol.

The hole is over 1/8th of an inch too small, I don't think it's a matter of cooling. The ring of the hotend will be <1/16" from the mounting holes for the bolts. I'm actually extremely concerned that with the center hole widened, and having to drill out the bolt holes (as I have with every other), it will fail. The ring on the hotend is just under 3/4" in diameter.

Looks like I'll have to clamp it to the drill press and widen the hole.

Thank you.

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fattmann
Looks like I'll have to bust out the drill bits, lol.

The hole is over 1/8th of an inch too small, I don't think it's a matter of cooling. The ring of the hotend will be <1/16" from the mounting holes for the bolts. I'm actually extremely concerned that with the center hole widened, and having to drill out the bolt holes (as I have with every other), it will fail. The ring on the hotend is just under 3/4" in diameter.

Looks like I'll have to clamp it to the drill press and widen the hole.

Thank you.

If it's that much, reach out to folger, they should replace it with no problems.

I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure!

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wrangellboy
I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure!

Good to know I'm not the only one.

I would disagree with the adventure part... not the level of quality control I expect of a $400 piece of equipment. Although I may be a bit bitter as my RAMPS board had bent components and broken pins, printed parts were misshapen, linear rails are borderline not functional, and incorrect bolts have been called out in the build manual. I'm hopeful from all the positive reviews despite these types of issues.

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fattmann

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wrangellboy
I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure!

Good to know I'm not the only one.

I would disagree with the adventure part... not the level of quality control I expect of a $400 piece of equipment. Although I may be a bit bitter as my RAMPS board had bent components and broken pins, printed parts were misshapen, linear rails are borderline not functional, and incorrect bolts have been called out in the build manual. I'm hopeful from all the positive reviews despite these types of issues.

Then I suggest you go source the parts from Misumi and then come back and complain about your 400$ piece of equipment. I have done exactly this and know the costs associated with making a name brand, trademarked and copyrighted product. This is what I have done and I have approval to use the iGus brand logo on my product when it comes to market (working on approval from Misumi). To buy these same items in quality parts, you will spend 4 x as much. You are buying a kit of parts that once assembled will make a functional printer. You are not buying an end product that is consumer grade, this is a kit of parts assembled. You can buy these same parts yourself for less then 275$. The rails that are in our kit can be had on eBay 3 for 45$ (Hiwin products) while the same rail from Misumi is 145$ per unit for a viable product.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 01:23PM by thevisad.

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thevisad

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fattmann

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wrangellboy
I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure!

Good to know I'm not the only one.

I would disagree with the adventure part... not the level of quality control I expect of a $400 piece of equipment. Although I may be a bit bitter as my RAMPS board had bent components and broken pins, printed parts were misshapen, linear rails are borderline not functional, and incorrect bolts have been called out in the build manual. I'm hopeful from all the positive reviews despite these types of issues.

Then I suggest you go source the parts from Misumi and then come back and complain about your 400$ piece of equipment. I have done exactly this and know the costs associated with making a name brand, trademarked and copyrighted product. This is what I have done and I have approval to use the iGus brand logo on my product when it comes to market (working on approval from Misumi). To buy these same items in quality parts, you will spend 4 x as much. You are buying a kit of parts that once assembled will make a functional printer. You are not buying an end product that is consumer grade, this is a kit of parts assembled. You can buy these same parts yourself for less then 275$. The rails that are in our kit can be had on eBay 3 for 45$ (Hiwin products) while the same rail from Misumi is 145$ per unit for a viable product.

Sorry for hijack!

Are you about to change your rails?

I tried with some rails from igus, but they were no good, those plastic bearings just have to much clearance which resulted in very inaccurate prints, at least the rails I tried with, $250 down the drain....
So I ended up ordering some middle-cheap MGN12 from china (reading reviews very thoroughly) and they were miles better than the ones that came with the kit, however I looked at misumi here in Europe and they seem affordable at least at a first glance.

Which rails and carriages are you looking for?
The ones I look at now is SSEBV13-70 they are not a direct replacement for the ones that came with the kit as the bolt-holes on the carriages are a bit off, 20X15 instead of 20X20, but as far as I can see they do not have a direct replacement for the MGN12 with the H-carriage (long carriage)

EDIT: BTW do not have to hot heatbed when printing PETG, I did and when the part cooled down it took a chip of my glassbed with it, the chip is still stuck to the part and is f***ing impossible to get of.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 02:15PM by Koenig.

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thevisad

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fattmann

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wrangellboy
I had to widen mine significantly, the bolt holes lined up fine afterwards and I haven't seen any strength issues. I also had to file the corner pieces considerably to get the towers into them. All part of the adventure!

Good to know I'm not the only one.

I would disagree with the adventure part... not the level of quality control I expect of a $400 piece of equipment. Although I may be a bit bitter as my RAMPS board had bent components and broken pins, printed parts were misshapen, linear rails are borderline not functional, and incorrect bolts have been called out in the build manual. I'm hopeful from all the positive reviews despite these types of issues.

Then I suggest you go source the parts from Misumi and then come back and complain about your 400$ piece of equipment. I have done exactly this and know the costs associated with making a name brand, trademarked and copyrighted product. This is what I have done and I have approval to use the iGus brand logo on my product when it comes to market (working on approval from Misumi). To buy these same items in quality parts, you will spend 4 x as much. You are buying a kit of parts that once assembled will make a functional printer. You are not buying an end product that is consumer grade, this is a kit of parts assembled. You can buy these same parts yourself for less then 275$. The rails that are in our kit can be had on eBay 3 for 45$ (Hiwin products) while the same rail from Misumi is 145$ per unit for a viable product.

Sure I can buy a car and put a bigger motor in it, or just buy a car with a bigger motor already in it- but those are two completely different things.

Lol at your poor attempt to justify... what every it is you are trying to justify.

Excepting poor business practices (like packaging for shipped items) because of ticket price is not reasonable, and hope you take that into consideration with your business venture.

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Koenig
Are you about to change your rails?

I tried with some rails from igus, but they were no good, those plastic bearings just have to much clearance which resulted in very inaccurate prints, at least the rails I tried with, $250 down the drain....
So I ended up ordering some middle-cheap MGN12 from china (reading reviews very thoroughly) and they were miles better than the ones that came with the kit, however I looked at misumi here in Europe and they seem affordable at least at a first glance.

Which rails and carriages are you looking for?
The ones I look at now is SSEBV13-70 they are not a direct replacement for the ones that came with the kit as the bolt-holes on the carriages are a bit off, 20X15 instead of 20X20, but as far as I can see they do not have a direct replacement for the MGN12 with the H-carriage (long carriage)

Yeah I am going to replace them I think, these things despite the work I have done on them are just still mediocre. However, I would use the Misumi part number SEBNL20-340 to replace them with. This is the direct replacement rail, but at 122 a pop, I can put that off for a bit. The igus stuff is good, but you have to match the right bearing to the job. There are dozens of bearings and some have more tolerance then others.

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fattmann

Sure I can buy a car and put a bigger motor in it, or just buy a car with a bigger motor already in it- but those are two completely different things.

Lol at your poor attempt to justify... what every it is you are trying to justify.

Excepting poor business practices (like packaging for shipped items) because of ticket price is not reasonable, and hope you take that into consideration with your business venture.

Zero justification and pure fact, when you buy this you are buying the cheapest run off junk from China that there is. I bought one and was perfectly happy with the 400$ machine I bought, it was exactly what I expected it to be. A box of parts that once assembled created a working printer. The parts in this kit cost less then 275$ (I have costs down to 245$) if you bought them all at 1 piece cost from eBay. These are the lowest quality items that you can buy and at volume, major discounts are available. I have spent the past 6 months identifying parts, upgrades and suppliers. I have talked to engineers at Misumi, igus, McMaster and a dozen other companies to identify the absolute best parts, with the best prices and actually have name brand parts. At the bare minimum, with simply replacing the rails, you would add in 385$ to the total cost of the unit. At 800$, you can expect some better quality out of the unit. Plastic parts? I wouldn't even consider using them in a "finished" product, but at kit? Sure, you can always print more parts as you need.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 02:59PM by thevisad.

Disable software_min_endstops while you calibrate, and then you can take Z negative. Depending on which Marlin version/date you have, there is/was a bug that it didn't consider M206 offsets in the soft endstops, so if you find that the base calibration puts you at Z=0 is one mm high, and do an M206 Z1 to get it right, and it still stops high, you needto update.

Also be certain that you are not fighting settings in EEPROM that override your changes. M500/M502 is your friend in this regard, or disable the EEPROM until you are calibrated.

Calibration on this machine really isn't that bad if you follow the procedures carefully.

- Tim

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Cryptech

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EdwinCal
Anyone have any tips for calibrating? It seems no matter what I try the printer doesn't seem to want to work with me. And yes I did check my wiring, today I unplugged and rewire everything to make sure my axis where all plugged in where they should be.

Here's the issues I ran into when calibrating.

1: Had the wrong firmware for number of teeth on the steppers. (I had 20 teeth)
2: The calibration guide has you sometimes go into negetive numbers with the G1 Z command, the firmware has a Z Min setting of 0, this will prevent you from going negetive, adjust temporarily to say -20 to allow you to go -20 on Z
3: Be as precise as you can with all your measurements, I input all mine up to the 100/th of a milimeter
4: Re-Home and measure again to make sure you have it right
5: Follow this guide (http://delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/)

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thevisad

Quote
Koenig
Are you about to change your rails?

I tried with some rails from igus, but they were no good, those plastic bearings just have to much clearance which resulted in very inaccurate prints, at least the rails I tried with, $250 down the drain....
So I ended up ordering some middle-cheap MGN12 from china (reading reviews very thoroughly) and they were miles better than the ones that came with the kit, however I looked at misumi here in Europe and they seem affordable at least at a first glance.

Which rails and carriages are you looking for?
The ones I look at now is SSEBV13-70 they are not a direct replacement for the ones that came with the kit as the bolt-holes on the carriages are a bit off, 20X15 instead of 20X20, but as far as I can see they do not have a direct replacement for the MGN12 with the H-carriage (long carriage)

Yeah I am going to replace them I think, these things despite the work I have done on them are just still mediocre. However, I would use the Misumi part number SEBNL20-340 to replace them with. This is the direct replacement rail, but at 122 a pop, I can put that off for a bit. The igus stuff is good, but you have to match the right bearing to the job. There are dozens of bearings and some have more tolerance then others.

Well the carriages of those are not a direct replacement, the boltholes on the MGN12H is 20*20mm CC apart (Width/Height) and misumis carriages are either 25*20mm or 20*15mm, doesn't matter much though it's easy enough to just drill a couple of new holes in the carriages if you choose to with 20*15mm, otherwise you will have design new plastic parts for the carriages.

EDIT: I was wrong about that seems they have long carriages as well but not when you search for SEBNL20 on their site (European version)

BTW, have you gone duet yet?
I have not come around to it yet, I have had so much trouble getting PETG to print with this printer.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 04:02PM by Koenig.

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Koenig
Well the carriages of those are not a direct replacement, the boltholes on the MGN12H is 20*20mm CC apart (Width/Height) and misumis carriages are either 25*20mm or 20*15mm, doesn't matter much though it's easy enough to just drill a couple of new holes in the carriages if you choose to with 20*15mm, otherwise you will have design new plastic parts for the carriages.

EDIT: I was wrong about that seems they have long carriages as well but not when you search for SEBNL20 on their site (European version)

BTW, have you gone duet yet?
I have not come around to it yet, I have had so much trouble getting PETG to print with this printer.

The ones that I selected were 20 x 20 on the mini rails, the long rails don't have them like you indicated. Here is the catalog page for those rails.

I got my Duet the other day and was finally able to compile the firmware on my own. DC42 is shipping me a duet screen controller and I should have that sometime in the next week or two. My next step is to determine where to place the screen unit. I am considering designing an enclosure that will sit on top of the delta, in the "front" of the printer.

I updated all of the wiring for the printer as well and eliminated the single strand wires with looms. I ended up using all igus wiring, with the following part numbers,
CF240-01-04 (26awg, motor only), CF240-03-14 (22awg, hot end (5 amps max, hotend uses 3.3)), CF240-01-07(26awg endstops and LED lighting). This is the stuff that we will be using in our product, it's shielded, torsion resistant to 3m/s, heat resistant to 80c and can travel unsupported for 50m.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/28/2015 05:34PM by thevisad.