Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level

Thanks for the reply - I am using the release from folgertechs site, and when I bring the carriage down it it works just fine - I can bring down to z1 and it doesn't complain at all. That's what perplexes me

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Rattfink
Thanks for the reply - I am using the release from folgertechs site, and when I bring the carriage down it it works just fine - I can bring down to z1 and it doesn't complain at all. That's what perplexes me

Use this one, I just updated it a few hours ago and printed the following item on my printer after. I try to keep this up to date with the official Marlin repository. For your motors, check to verify your voltage is set properly and that the plug on the end of the wiring is correct, sometimes they get put into the loop incorrect (match the wire color -> plug at the end of the wire plug to a working one). If that doesn't work try switching motors and seeing if it's your motor or your RAMPS.

https://github.com/thevisad/Marlin

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Koenig
I'm in the same situation myself and I've found this: [delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com]

It also seems one of my towers is a bit off, my prints come out a bit skewed. I thought getting the aluminium-corners would help against this, how wrong one can be...

And still no heated bed above 90C, think this has something to do with the RAMPS (Duet underway)

Koenig, check out the latest version of the firmware I uploaded. I remembered seeing this post and as I was rechecking my printer last night. I decided to add the offset options for fixing the towers (not sure if you added this)

Tower Offset options

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 10:35AM by thevisad.

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Rattfink
Hello

I finally competed my build and I think I'm getting close on calibration. Just have a question about g29 auto probe. When I send the command, (after sending g28), two of the three axis move down while the y carriage stays. I hear a stutter, (like the motor is trying to move past its extent) and then the auto probe sequence starts on the build plate. But off as much as the y axis was "held up" from the start of the g29 command. Seems like the two carriages were movin with the expectation that the third was coming along for the trip.

Any ideas?

And I am glad to have found this forum, I will have to adjust my voltages on my extruder, it was skipping.. (Must be the low voltage)

That 'stutter' is the carriage hanging on the rail. The G29 feed rate (speed) is running at the highest allowed by your firmware setting, and you probably aren't running that high a feed when you bring the effector down with the Z1 height. As tadawson suggested, see what happens with G1 Z25 F3000 . The F3000 is the feed rate. Keep bumping up the feed and you will start to see the hang.

With the power off, grab each of the carriages and slide them up and down the full rail length. I'd expect your Y carriage to feel rougher than the other two.

What to do? A couple of drops of high quality oil like gun oil and work the carriages up and down the rails with the power off to distribute the oil on the rails and ball bearings. May have to tear down the carriages and rails for a thorough cleaning and lube.

BTW, raising the voltage to overcome the skipping only works to a point. Yes, the voltage has to be high enough to provide the needed torque to slide the load. If the rail/carriage is sticking, then higher voltage and brute force will jump the rough spots but you still won't have smooth movements.

Rick

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thevisad

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Koenig
I'm in the same situation myself and I've found this: [delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com]

It also seems one of my towers is a bit off, my prints come out a bit skewed. I thought getting the aluminium-corners would help against this, how wrong one can be...

And still no heated bed above 90C, think this has something to do with the RAMPS (Duet underway)

Koenig, check out the latest version of the firmware I uploaded. I remembered seeing this post and as I was rechecking my printer last night. I decided to add the offset options for fixing the towers (not sure if you added this)

Tower Offset options

I did add it, but I couldn't get it to work, the prints came out identical whater value I added to those lines....

Did you only add those 3 lines?

Or did you add these as well?
"// Effective X/Y positions of the three vertical towers.
#define SIN_60 0.8660254037844386
#define COS_60 0.5
#define DELTA_TOWER1_X -SIN_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER1_CORRECTION) // front left tower
#define DELTA_TOWER1_Y -COS_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER1_CORRECTION)
#define DELTA_TOWER2_X SIN_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER2_CORRECTION) // front right tower
#define DELTA_TOWER2_Y -COS_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER2_CORRECTION)
#define DELTA_TOWER3_X 0.0 // back middle tower
#define DELTA_TOWER3_Y DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER3_CORRECTION"

Or was that supposed to go somewhere else?

If so that might be why it did not work for me...

Later I found this way also: [www.thingiverse.com]

Wich also can correct for different lengths of rods, and according to that guide the lines should be added to "marlin_main.cpp"

Wich made me thinking that those lines I quoted up there should be added to just "marlin_main.cpp" and only the other three lines should be in "configuration.h".


Haven't tried it yet though, I'm waiting for some new parts, was not happy with the igus-rails either, their carriages gave some lash so I have ordered some new MGN12-rails (and carriages) and bigger motors.

Ahhh!! I will definitely try the gun oil, I can feel a little resistance on all of them anyway. I'll report back - thanks for be help!!

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Koenig

I did add it, but I couldn't get it to work, the prints came out identical whater value I added to those lines....

Did you only add those 3 lines?

Or did you add these as well?
"// Effective X/Y positions of the three vertical towers.
#define SIN_60 0.8660254037844386
#define COS_60 0.5
#define DELTA_TOWER1_X -SIN_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER1_CORRECTION) // front left tower
#define DELTA_TOWER1_Y -COS_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER1_CORRECTION)
#define DELTA_TOWER2_X SIN_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER2_CORRECTION) // front right tower
#define DELTA_TOWER2_Y -COS_60*(DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER2_CORRECTION)
#define DELTA_TOWER3_X 0.0 // back middle tower
#define DELTA_TOWER3_Y DELTA_RADIUS + DELTA_TOWER3_CORRECTION"

Or was that supposed to go somewhere else?

If so that might be why it did not work for me...

Later I found this way also: [www.thingiverse.com]

Wich also can correct for different lengths of rods, and according to that guide the lines should be added to "marlin_main.cpp"

Wich made me thinking that those lines I quoted up there should be added to just "marlin_main.cpp" and only the other three lines should be in "configuration.h".

Haven't tried it yet though, I'm waiting for some new parts, was not happy with the igus-rails either, their carriages gave some lash so I have ordered some new MGN12-rails (and carriages) and bigger motors.

Yeah that stuff goes into marlin main to be processed, your changes should be reflected on the print using the new firmware now.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 01:08PM by thevisad.

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thevisad
Yeah that stuff goes into marlin main to be processed, your changes should be reflected on the print using the new firmware now.

I see.

That explains it.

Thats how it is beeing new to stuff, but it's great to learn.

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Koenig

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thevisad
Yeah that stuff goes into marlin main to be processed, your changes should be reflected on the print using the new firmware now.

I see.

That explains it.

Thats how it is beeing new to stuff, but it's great to learn.

Lol, yeah I love to tinker! I am actually working on an add on fan controller for the motors that will branch off of the RAMPS to add an additional thermistor(s) to monitor the motor temps. I want the printer to enable and disable the motor fans as needed to keep them cool, but only when they reach a certain temperature. Metal corners might be nice and also be a heatsink, but they do not solve all of the problems.

I found that it appears that Folger gives incorrect drive voltages that cause severe motor heating on the axis, and far too little power on the extruder. Folger has not yet given me a direct confirmation, but if the motors in the kit are those they sell on thier web page, the axis motors are .4A rated, and the setting of .35v drives at .88amps . . . way, way too much! Using the recommended 70% factor, I get a more appropriate calculated setting of .22v, and have been running .25v, and things are quieter, smoother, and my corners are no longer deforming due to heat (the motors are now warm to the touch, and no longer painful as they used to be, even with heat sinks . . .). The extruder appears to be thier 1.4A motor, and (at least on mine) it wouldn't feed worth a damn at .55v, and again, the calculated value is much different, closer to .8v . . . and for what it's worth, I run my extruder at .85v, and it is just barely warm to the touch even after 12+ hour print runs . . . and feeds anything without skipping steps.

Perhaps this is done to overpower the gritty Chinese linear rails (I did have some issues when mine were 'virgin', before I got them lubricated and worn in), but destroys the lower corners in the process!

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 01:57PM by tadawson.

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tadawson
I found that it appears that Folger gives incorrect drive voltages that cause severe motor heating on the axis, and far too little power on the extruder. Folger has not yet given me a direct confirmation, but if the motors in the kit are those they sell on thier web page, the axis motors are .4A rated, and the setting of .35v drives at .88amps . . . way, way too much! Using the recommended 70% factor, I get a more appropriate calculated setting of .22v, and have been running .25v, and things are quieter, smoother, and my corners are no longer deforming due to heat (the motors are now warm to the touch, and no longer painful as they used to be, even with heat sinks . . .). The extruder appears to be thier 1.4A motor, and (at least on mine) it wouldn't feed worth a damn at .55v, and again, the calculated value is much different, closer to .8v . . . and for what it's worth, I run my extruder at .85v, and it is just barely warm to the touch even after 12+ hour print runs . . . and feeds anything without skipping steps.

Perhaps this is done to overpower the gritty Chinese linear rails (I did have some issues when mine were 'virgin', before I got them lubricated and worn in), but destroys the lower corners in the process!

- Tim

I would check your math, if you are using the cheap Chinese steppers and not stepper drivers made by Pololu then the sense resistors are .1 not .5

Note 1: for StepStick, the Rs=0.2 ohm, so you'd get 4 times the Vref at the same current.
Note 2: most "Made in China" A4988 Pololu knock-offs have Rs=0.1 ohm.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 02:32PM by thevisad.

Folger explicitly states that thier sense resistors in the modules they source are .5, and the meltdown of the printed corners coupled with perfect operation atthe calculated values goes a long way in confirming that nothing is off by a factor of 5 . . . . were that the case, we would be having even bigger problems . . .

And no matter what the resistors, deforming the corners of the printer is running too damn hot!

Just using the mfg's own docs . . . and confirming with observation . . .

- Tim

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 03:36PM by tadawson.

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tadawson
Folger explicitly states that thier sense resistors in the modules they source are .5, and the meltdown of the printed corners coupled with perfect operation atthe calculated values goes a long way in confirming that nothing is off by a factor of 5 . . . . were that the case, we would be having even bigger problems . . .

And no matter what the resistors, deforming the corners of the printer is running too damn hot!

Just using the mfg's own docs . . . and confirming with observation . . .

- Tim

Again, I am going to state that you should check your math. You can read here on the stepsticks here

Digikey R100 .1 Sense resistors

Chinese knockoffs




True Pololu drivers


Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 03:50PM by thevisad.

And again, if you were correct, I'd either be on fire or skipping all over. And I have this nasty tendency to accept mfg's spec sheets over folks I don't know, coupled with 100% consistent observations, as well as 100% success . . .

My current calcs are *exactly* as per the driver mfg's published specs and procedure, and frankly, I don't give a good crap what others think - I'm no longer melting chassis parts, and am printing flawlessly. I even had a Z tower motor lockup due to the heat at .35 . . . and you can't seriously be claiming that that is correct! While Folger didn't confirm the specs of thier motor, they did confirm that backing down was not a bad idea, and .35/.25 is a hell of a lot less that a 5:1 error . . .

And while that is a nice photo, it isn't of the driver I am running, so pretty well means nothing, otherthan that there is inconsistency in the supply chain!

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 03:48PM by tadawson.

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tadawson
And again, if you were correct, I'd either be on fire or skipping all over. And I have this nasty tendency to accept mfg's spec sheets over folks I don't know, coupled with 100% consistent observations, as well as 100% success . . .

My current calcs are *exactly* as per the driver mfg's published specs and procedure, and frankly, I don't give a good crap what others think - I'm no longer melting chassis parts, and am printing flawlessly. I even had a Z tower motor lockup due to the heat at .35 . . . and you can't seriously be claiming that that is correct! While Folger didn't confirm the specs of thier motor, they did confirm that backing down was not a bad idea, and .35/.25 is a hell of a lot less that a 5:1 error . . .

And while that is a nice photo, it isn't of the driver I am running, so pretty well means nothing, otherthan that there is inconsistency in the supply chain!

- Tim

I could care less if you burn your own stuff up or if you listen to me at all. However, other people here listen and take advice. I suggested you look at your math because if you are not using Pololu steppers then your sense resistors are not .5 which what all of the math is based on. Red boards, Green boards, whatever the case they are Chinese knock offs and do not have the voltage. This includes the ones that are sent by Folgertech themselves. One of the pictures I am providing is the driver you are using. Not providing enough current will also heat your motors. They should not be quiet either on the 4988, there should be harmonics. If you want quiet, jump to the DRV8825 drivers.

You can flat out see that the sense resistors in this stepper driver are .01, not .05


In this one they are .02!


Pololu Black sense resistors are .05!


Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 04:09PM by thevisad.

In addition to this, the POT and the Resistor for the POT are mismatched, meaning a really crap tuning process. BTW, every bit of what I am stating here comes from Reprap wiki and other posts, so take my word for it or go look it up yourself, makes me no never mind.


Per the A4988 datasheet, the calculation for the maximum trip current is:
I_TripMax= Vref/(8*Rs)

With Pololus, the sensing resistors are Rs=0.05 ohm, so a Vref of 0.4 should produce a maximum current of 0.4/(8*0.05)=1A. Clockwise increases the current which will make the motor run hotter and counterclockwise reduces it which will cool it down (see forum thread 159081).
As another example, aiming for 50% temperature rise on 1A rated steppers by using max 0.7A, so rearrange it as:

Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
or
Vref = 0.7A * 8 * 0.05 = 0.280V
With a measured Vref of 0.273V, I should expect 0.6825A, and I measured the current through one coil as 0.486A in full step mode, which should be 0.7071 of the full trip current, or I_TripMax= 0.486/0.7071= 0.687A, which seems close enough.
The Vref signal is accessible as the "VREF" pin on the carriers with voltage regulators, as the through-hole via on the carriers without, and also as the wiper on the trim pot itself on both carriers.


example of a v-ref checking, + probe on the turnpot and - on a ground pin
Note 1: for StepStick, the Rs=0.2 ohm, so you'd get 4 times the Vref at the same current.
Note 2: most "Made in China" A4988 Pololu knock-offs have Rs=0.1 ohm

http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 04:08PM by thevisad.

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thevisad
In addition to this, the POT and the Resistor for the POT are mismatched, meaning a really crap tuning process. BTW, every bit of what I am stating here comes from Reprap wiki and other posts, so take my word for it or go look it up yourself, makes me no never mind.


Per the A4988 datasheet, the calculation for the maximum trip current is:
I_TripMax= Vref/(8*Rs)

With Pololus, the sensing resistors are Rs=0.05 ohm, so a Vref of 0.4 should produce a maximum current of 0.4/(8*0.05)=1A. Clockwise increases the current which will make the motor run hotter and counterclockwise reduces it which will cool it down (see forum thread 159081).
As another example, aiming for 50% temperature rise on 1A rated steppers by using max 0.7A, so rearrange it as:

Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
or
Vref = 0.7A * 8 * 0.05 = 0.280V
With a measured Vref of 0.273V, I should expect 0.6825A, and I measured the current through one coil as 0.486A in full step mode, which should be 0.7071 of the full trip current, or I_TripMax= 0.486/0.7071= 0.687A, which seems close enough.
The Vref signal is accessible as the "VREF" pin on the carriers with voltage regulators, as the through-hole via on the carriers without, and also as the wiper on the trim pot itself on both carriers.


example of a v-ref checking, + probe on the turnpot and - on a ground pin
Note 1: for StepStick, the Rs=0.2 ohm, so you'd get 4 times the Vref at the same current.
Note 2: most "Made in China" A4988 Pololu knock-offs have Rs=0.1 ohm

http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

And now you agree with me! Wonderful! I have said from the get-go, that the drive voltage of .35v gives a current of .88 (actually .875) amps, which is far too high for a .4A rated motor . . . Your math above confirms this . . . so no error there.

For the same .4A motor, using the .70 factor to get to full trip current, that means that I want full trip at .57 amps . . . giving a VRef of .22 . . . exactly as I had initially stated.

So frankly, I have no idea what you are arguing about . . . your last post just confirmed *MY* math!

And you keep writing ".5" . . . I assume you meant ".05" and keep having repetitive fingercheck errors?

And, since it seems that you are not paying attention, I have made these changes *BECAUSE* stuff was overheating using the figures from Folger . . . I'm trying to *PREVENT* that, which I have!

I may well revisit this and go back up a bit once (if ever?) I get metal corners for this thing . . . for now, I need to preserve the parts I have, and the overheat damage has already been so bad that the motors are tilted by (I'm guessing) 15 degrees, and I can either wait out the metal, or try to run new corners, but need to limit the damage in the mean time if I am to have a chance of doing that.

And yes, there is still noise, but a more reasonable amount. I work with automated lighting gear (read: a s**tload of steppers in a very hot place - I have units with 40 motors in them . . ) and have a pretty good feel for what normal stepper noise is . . .

So, no excess noise, no excess heat, no failing plastic parts == epic success at this point . . .

And I just though I would mention that there may be an issue, such that others may want to consider a change to avoid destroying their printer frames, but apparently some (you?) are more interested in arguning the math than preserving the parts . . .

Also, now that I realize that you have been trying to type ".05" and not ".5" (and apparently repetitively failing), I see that the error would be 2x not 5x . . . so not sure what is up. I may well be underdriving, but even with the .1 current sense, that would have the .35 VRef giving a drive of .43, and with the .70 factor correction, would correspond to .306A motor drive . . . And I really have a hard time believing that these run that hot at 75% of rating (in an air conditioned space) . . . . It just doesn't make much sense . . .

- Tim

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 04:28PM by tadawson.

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tadawson

Quote
thevisad
In addition to this, the POT and the Resistor for the POT are mismatched, meaning a really crap tuning process. BTW, every bit of what I am stating here comes from Reprap wiki and other posts, so take my word for it or go look it up yourself, makes me no never mind.


Per the A4988 datasheet, the calculation for the maximum trip current is:
I_TripMax= Vref/(8*Rs)

With Pololus, the sensing resistors are Rs=0.05 ohm, so a Vref of 0.4 should produce a maximum current of 0.4/(8*0.05)=1A. Clockwise increases the current which will make the motor run hotter and counterclockwise reduces it which will cool it down (see forum thread 159081).
As another example, aiming for 50% temperature rise on 1A rated steppers by using max 0.7A, so rearrange it as:

Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs
or
Vref = 0.7A * 8 * 0.05 = 0.280V
With a measured Vref of 0.273V, I should expect 0.6825A, and I measured the current through one coil as 0.486A in full step mode, which should be 0.7071 of the full trip current, or I_TripMax= 0.486/0.7071= 0.687A, which seems close enough.
The Vref signal is accessible as the "VREF" pin on the carriers with voltage regulators, as the through-hole via on the carriers without, and also as the wiper on the trim pot itself on both carriers.


example of a v-ref checking, + probe on the turnpot and - on a ground pin
Note 1: for StepStick, the Rs=0.2 ohm, so you'd get 4 times the Vref at the same current.
Note 2: most "Made in China" A4988 Pololu knock-offs have Rs=0.1 ohm

http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

And now you agree with me! Wonderful! I have said from the get-go, that the drive voltage of .35v gives a current of .88 (actually .875) amps, which is far too high for a .4A rated motor . . . Your math above confirms this . . . so no error there.

For the same .4A motor, using the .70 factor to get to full trip current, that means that I want full trip at .57 amps . . . giving a VRef of .22 . . . exactly as I had initially stated.

So frankly, I have no idea what you are arguing about . . . your last post just confirmed *MY* math!

And you keep writing ".5" . . . I assume you meant ".05" and keep having repetitive fingercheck errors?

And, since it seems that you are not paying attention, I have made these changes *BECAUSE* stuff was overheating using the figures from Folger . . . I'm trying to *PREVENT* that, which I have!

I may well revisit this and go back up a bit once (if ever?) I get metal corners for this thing . . . for now, I need to preserve the parts I have, and the overheat damage has already been so bad that the motors are tilted by (I'm guessing) 15 degrees, and I can either wait out the metal, or try to run new corners, but need to limit the damage in the mean time if I am to have a chance of doing that.

And yes, there is still noise, but a more reasonable amount. I work with automated lighting gear (read: a s**tload of steppers in a very hot place - I have units with 40 motors in them . . ) and have a pretty good feel for what normal stepper noise is . . .

So, no excess noise, no excess heat, no failing plastic parts == epic success at this point . . .

And I just though I would mention that there may be an issue, such that others may want to consider a change to avoid destroying their printer frames, but apparently some (you?) are more interested in arguning the math than preserving the parts . . .

- Tim

Actually, I didn't argue at all, just stated for you to check your math based on the resistors that are on your stepper driver and pointed out the math. You seemed to have taken offense and have an attitude about the whole thing, so have fun, you know where to stick your attitude and personal attacks

No, I just don't tend to instantly discredit manufacturer documentation. And it wasn't an attack - you *DID* consistently write ".5", which *DID* throw off my response . . .

And in any case, the math was always right, the only question was one of the *VARIABLES* being used . . . not to mention your having totally and completely ignored the physical evidence offered.

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 08:00PM by tadawson.

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tadawson
No, I just don't tend to instantly discredit manufacturer documentation. And it wasn't an attack - you *DID* consistently write ".5", which *DID* throw off my response . . .

And in any case, the math was always right, the only question was one of the *VARIABLES* being used . . . not to mention your having totally and completely ignored the
physical evidence offered.

- Tim

HAHA, that was a copy/paste from Reprap wiki, so go blow your chunks on them, not me. I pasted the link for you twice in there, just on that article alone they flip between the numbers (.5 vs .05) multiple times. The motors in my XYZ Davinci 1.0a run hotter then the motors in my Folgertech. You state in your post that you are guessing at the specs since you do not have them and folgertech isn't responding. They did the same exact thing to me when I asked, I had daily communication with them until I asked about the motors and they stopped responding. Which, btw, the specs are etched into the bottom of the motor end cap, at least they are on mine. I did the math originally with the specs on these and the information for the stepper drivers that I have (and subsequently replaced). What you were posting did not seem correct from what I could remember, which is why I suggested to check your math, I never once stated you were wrong. I remembered digging into this issue when I first got my kit. I bought dozens of stepper drivers, in 4988, 8825 and simple step, to make sure I had spares so i could play around. Plus I have the raw components to make hundreds more with steps from full to 256 micro steps, so trust me I read the manufacturers docs as well. Everyone uses the specs for the Pololu drivers, not the Chinese knockoffs, which have a couple of changes from the original. It has been posted that simply using the formula to obtain the "right math" to get the voltage reference will not be correct since it ignores any and all mechanical issues (your reference to overcoming the performance issues of rough rails etc).

Motor in my kit, looks to be the .4 amp like you suspected, no etching on the extruder motor.



Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 07:02PM by thevisad.

Thanks for the image, and sorry for being bitchy . . . My motors have heatsinks glued to the endcaps (one time thermal adhesive pads), and as you noted, no marking on the extruder motor, so I assumed that was the case. My question to Folger was 'are the motors in my kit the ones on your web page' (which are rated .4A/12V, as I am certain you noted), so not really much to duck, but they still pretty much did. And other than not having the '.4A' etched into the motor, your motor matches the spec of what they have on thier page, so I'm going to declare it certain that they call these .4A motors . . .

I guess what set me off was a comment that came across more like "hey stupid, you can't do simple math" vs. the actual question, which was more like "Hey Tim, are you sure your drivers have .05 ohm sense resistors" which likely would have sent me digging, since I know I had the correct equations, and datasheets to back up the values used . . .

In any case, I have no issue setting current on these drivers . . . a bit fiddly on the pot, but I can usually get within .005 of what I am targeting, so I have no urgent desire to make that change any time soon, but have been working up a 32bit solution.

I just have a problem with the motors running hot enough to deform my corners . . . and my rails are smooth and do not bind at all now, confirmed somewhat by my not skipping steps running a VRef of .25 . . . and for now, I split the difference and came back up to .30 . . . at least until I get my metal parts which both won't deform, and will also sink off more heat.

In any case, no hard feeling, and thanks for trying to help.

I still think new users of this kit might want to run a bit below .35, if for no other reason, to save the plastic parts . . .

- Tim

Quote
thevisad
Use this one, I just updated it a few hours ago and printed the following item on my printer after. I try to keep this up to date with the official Marlin repository. For your motors, check to verify your voltage is set properly and that the plug on the end of the wiring is correct, sometimes they get put into the loop incorrect (match the wire color -> plug at the end of the wire plug to a working one). If that doesn't work try switching motors and seeing if it's your motor or your RAMPS.

[github.com]

Thanks - i updated to this and after some reconfig it is moving down without that rattle -
i had lubed it up a little and it seems to be running a little smoother.
tried to print, but the extruder was going backwards - assumed that it was something with the new config - found that #define INVERT_E0_DIR true was set to false, so that fixed that.

but the G29 code.. pronterface says:

SENDING:G29
G29 Auto Bed Leveling
?Probe (F)ront position out of range.

found the homing limits were a little goofy - i had put an odd number in there

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/24/2015 10:29PM by Rattfink.

You need to make sure that your radius, probable radius, and probe offsets are set correctly *and* correctly signed. There is also a minimum spacing between points (10? I don't recall for certain . . . ) so if you ask for too many points to probe, it chokes . . . (I could not get more than setting 5 or 6 to work).

Myself, I found a good manual calibration worked as well or better, and was far less fiddly . . . although I may come back and play with auto at some point.

- Tim

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2015 01:07AM by tadawson.

I think that i will mess with the manual calibration. thanks!

Heya... I made some corner trim caps. I was looking for something like this on Thingiverse but couldn't find anything so, I thought maybe others with a FT Kossel could use these also.

I've already printed out the wider style for all 3 towers. - I plan to use these and plexi-glass to enclose the machine -which I'm finding is a must to print ABS without the lifting and curling.
Just scale on the Z accordingly for whatever length you need. (I printed 3 per side at 200mm - which leaves a 20mm gap) - maybe play with the Z length and print 4 per side -might work better.




Kossel_Corner_Caps.zip
3xCorner.zip
3XCap.zip

*edit* I included the 2 parts set up as 3 parts each aranged as 1 print... or um yeah -like from the first pic. Also you want to print these with 2 shells/walls (0.8mm) and 0% infill - with the thin parts and the thick shell they print pretty much solid anyway.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/25/2015 09:05PM by Flish.

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thevisad

Quote
Koenig
I'm in the same situation myself and I've found this: [delta-calibration.s3-website-us-west-2.amazonaws.com]

It also seems one of my towers is a bit off, my prints come out a bit skewed. I thought getting the aluminium-corners would help against this, how wrong one can be...

And still no heated bed above 90C, think this has something to do with the RAMPS (Duet underway)

Koenig, check out the latest version of the firmware I uploaded. I remembered seeing this post and as I was rechecking my printer last night. I decided to add the offset options for fixing the towers (not sure if you added this)

Tower Offset options

It worked real nice!

I reprinted the asterisk and now I'm within 0.2mm on all axis and it cannot get better than that cause of the lash the igus carriages gives , my goal is to be within 0.07mm.

New rails underway.

I need a little help. My extruder stopped working, I check the motor (Works) I check the wiring harness (Works) I checked the driver (looked good but replaced it anyways) and im still getting nothing. You can see that the motor is getting power cause when it click to extrude it twitches, but doesnt spin and it hardens up so you can spin it by hand anymore. Any idea what I can do to fix this? Thank you

Quote
NeckBon3
I need a little help. My extruder stopped working, I check the motor (Works) I check the wiring harness (Works) I checked the driver (looked good but replaced it anyways) and im still getting nothing. You can see that the motor is getting power cause when it click to extrude it twitches, but doesnt spin and it hardens up so you can spin it by hand anymore. Any idea what I can do to fix this? Thank you

Are you trying to extrude when the hotend is still cold?

There is safeguards in the firmware to prevent that, but you could use M302 to bypass it.

Quote
Koenig

Quote
NeckBon3
I need a little help. My extruder stopped working, I check the motor (Works) I check the wiring harness (Works) I checked the driver (looked good but replaced it anyways) and im still getting nothing. You can see that the motor is getting power cause when it click to extrude it twitches, but doesnt spin and it hardens up so you can spin it by hand anymore. Any idea what I can do to fix this? Thank you

Are you trying to extrude when the hotend is still cold?

There is safeguards in the firmware to prevent that, but you could use M302 to bypass it.

Koenig, Did even think of that I'll give that a try

Quote
Koenig

Quote
NeckBon3
I need a little help. My extruder stopped working, I check the motor (Works) I check the wiring harness (Works) I checked the driver (looked good but replaced it anyways) and im still getting nothing. You can see that the motor is getting power cause when it click to extrude it twitches, but doesnt spin and it hardens up so you can spin it by hand anymore. Any idea what I can do to fix this? Thank you

Are you trying to extrude when the hotend is still cold?

There is safeguards in the firmware to prevent that, but you could use M302 to bypass it.

wow that was a noobie mistake Thank you Koenig, it works