Can i use the Rostock mini with a Ramps instead of a Sanguinololu ?

Hi everyone !

Sorry for the question but it's my first build of a Rostock Mini and i'd like to know if it is possible to use a ramps instead of a Sanguinololu. In the Manuals, described at reprap.org, they describe it only with a Sanguinololu.
Is this because of the height of the ramps ?

Or is there no problem at all?
And can i use it with Repetier?


Thanks for every reply.



Regards
Daniel

Hello!

Yes, you can.
I have Rostock mini pro with RAMPS 1.4 running Repetier.
But I did not put the electronics under the printer.

Regards,
Martin

Thanks for the reply.
Where do zou have the electronics ?
On top of the printer ?
And i have to use Nema17 with 44 N/cm (4,4 kg/cm) or can i use Nemas with less power ?


Regards
Daniel

I have it beside the printer in a plastic box with the fan.

This is my current setup:

Looks good.

Can i ask you where you got the acrylic plates from ?
Have searched at Ebay, but not found anything.
Only plywood, but i think acrylic is more stable and has less problems with the heat, right ?

Regards
Daniel

I also have Rostock mini pro with RAMPS 1.4 running Repetier, started documenting the whole building process here.

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All about delta 3d printers in one place [www.deltarap.org]

And of-course,
mine also with the Ramps on top :-)



It is Tie-Wrapped spaghetti, but it works fine :-)

Also look at the build plate fixation, which you can find on Thingiverse here:


Thomas

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/04/2014 09:10AM by Replace.

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

Mine is 3DprinterCzar kit.
Sourcing partson mine one would be more expensive and time consuming.

@Replace
@DinoK
How is your vertical (tower) stability?
How bad is the linear bearings and Traxxas joins play?

I had to put 3 bearings per tower to minimise the play in the towers,
and I am not impressed in the Traxxas joints eather....

@RipseR
Would You Say that it is Better with 3 lm8uu on every stainless steel tube?

Is it a Big problem and what about the prints ? Are they getting exact enough ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/05/2014 02:24AM by dkdaniel.

@RipseR

It is my first Delta, not expensive in my opinion.
But way less stable than my Orcabot (Cartesian)

I think that I would go for another Delta if I had to do it again.
Qualiy of Czar parts is bad. I already have printed new HotEnd mountings (as you could see) and am planning to reprint more.

I think a Delta with la profiles and stronger bottom/top would be preferable.

And yes, the traxxas give play. In my build, friction and torque on the bowden will displace the central unit.
But for my prints up till now not really a problem, as long as nobody touches when printing :-)

Thomas.

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www.3daybreaker.blogspot.com

Orca V4.4 rebuild to Ramps with Mk8 and E3D, as well as a Rostock Delta Mini and an OLO in backorder :-)

Thanks for all your helpful reply's.
Csn anyone help me with finding the answer of this question ? That would be great.

I have a nema set from another project. But the holding torque is at 3,6 kg/cm.
Can i use them for a Rostock mini or are they not strong enough for a delta printer ?

And i like to use a Direct Drive Bowden Extruder, is it the best or is a "normal" extruder better ? I built a Prusa I3 with a Direct drive and i think it was faster than the normal extruders.
And how strong or fast should the motor be at such a direct drive if it should used with adult printer ?


Daniel

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2014 01:19AM by dkdaniel.

According to the RepRap website:

Quote

"It is recommended that you get approximately 13.7 N-cm (= 0.137 N-m or 1400 gf-cm or 19.4 ozf-in or 1.21 lbf-in) of holding torque (or more) for RepRap axis motors to avoid issues, although one stepper with less has been used successfully. For Wade's Geared Extruder (most widely used one as of 2012) it is suggested to use motor that is capable of creating a holding torque of at least 40 N-cm."

http://robotics.stackexchange.com/questions/446/how-much-torque-do-i-need-for-a-cnc-machine
http://reprap.org/wiki/StepperMotor#Holding_Torque

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All about delta 3d printers in one place [www.deltarap.org]

Thanks for the reply . I asked because of the fact, that in the Reprap documentation of the Rostock mini , the list of materials is described a nema17 with a holding torque of 44 N/cm. But if i can use the 36 N/cm it's fine. Isn't there a difference between a 3 axis printer and a delta printer according to the holding torque ?


Daniel

@dkdaniel, if you already have the 36 N/cm motors, it doesn't hurt to give them a try. Worst case is you will eventually need to order new ones to swap out, which shouldn't be too difficult.

@Replace, thanks for the Thingiverse link, I have been trying to make something similar to hold my print bed. I also like the idea of the LCD on top.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2014 04:44PM by Kurzaa.

@dkdaniel, I agree with Kurzaa. You may have to accept a slightly lower print speed, but that's probably the only issue you will have if you use stepper motors with a little lower than the recommended torque.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
RipseR
Mine is 3DprinterCzar kit.
Sourcing partson mine one would be more expensive and time consuming.

@Replace
@DinoK
How is your vertical (tower) stability?
How bad is the linear bearings and Traxxas joins play?

I had to put 3 bearings per tower to minimise the play in the towers,
and I am not impressed in the Traxxas joints eather....

I am very satisfied with the kit, sourcing parts would indeed be more expensive.The big money saver was
the fact that I didn't have to pay for shipping and customs so for me it was almost half the price of
buying Printrbot Metal Simple.
LM8UU linear bearings are low quality and I am printing replacement PLA bushings as we speak. Already mounted them
on one tower and am very satisfied with the result(no play,quiet,cheap).
Traxxas joints have developed a slop(backlash) but the rubber bands on the rods will tighten it up.
Have also mounted the extruder on top, changed pulleys from 36-teeth to 20-teeth, adjusted the voltage on motors
and am slowly replacing all carriages for stronger ones. The biggest weakness of the kit is lack of proper cooling from the start
which can cause the hotend mount to melt. Stability has not been an issue for me, I am getting very good results since the printer
was properly calibrated and tuned.

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All about delta 3d printers in one place [www.deltarap.org]