Best Delta nowdays

I'm looking for your opinon. Whats the best DELTA (rep rap) nowdays?
Tell me why you think it's the best and what is bad about it. Just tell me Pros and Cons of that printer please.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2014 07:25AM by AFK-er.

Most deltas around here are either self designed or self tweaked.

You have options and varying costs.

The best design IMHO is in the eye of the beholder.

However the options are.
kossel
cherry pi
Rostock
3dr

Personally I went ahead and designed my own. Delta printers have not caught up as much as the other types. People seem to prefer prusa derivatives, makerbot clones etc etc.

I still think Delta is the way to go for my needs. But its not for everyone.

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My Personal Blog. Build blog.
[engineerd3d.ddns.net]

Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

Direct experience:
Rostock - Problematic and NOISY, the wood reverberates sound. Good rods/bearings are not cheap, and cheap are noisy and short lived.
Griffin OS - Cheap, simple, sturdy, any size you want (within reason), well documented, well supported.
Griffin Pro - A bit more, but available as a kit, better resolution than almost anything else. Not shipping just yet, and no O.S. files until it ships.

Minor experience:
Kossel Mini - A bit flimsy to be honest, it's under built, expensive, and the upper frame assembly is a bit silly from an engineering standpoint.

Opinions on others:
3DR - seems a bit silly to use extrusion and linear rails, and I disagree with using fishing line entirely. Good rods/bearings are not cheap, and cheap are noisy and short lived.
Cherry Pi III - Looks kind of like a hybrid/improved Kossel, using larger extrusion. However the joint system is a bit complex, good, but complex.

If I were building a new printer today, it would be a Griffin, Cherry Pi, or a hybrid of the two.
Designing your own is great, except it can take a VERY long time to get right.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/12/2014 05:42PM by sheepdog43.

Note to the OP: Sheepdog created the Griffin and has a kickstarter for the Griffin Pro. There's obvious bias above.

Further more, there is far more communal support for the Kossel Mini than any other Delta Printer out there.

3DR is good if you want to build from the Printrbot Simple.

AndyCarts CherryPi delta printer is good as well.

Hi,
I had the similar question a few weeks ago and decided to build a Hexagon.

The base has 6 edges and fits my heated 20x20cm bed. I am writing a build report here. Maybe this design is interesting for you, too. It is still a work in progress. It uses Igus Linear rails and Igus Rodends as they are "cheap" in germany. Hopefully I will get first print results in 2 weeks...

Manu

Edit:
Sorry, I forgot to say: the original Design is not for Igus linear rails and E3D hotend, optical Endstops etc. I changed a lot of the original parts to fit my needs. If anyone needs the, please let my know...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2014 07:08AM by Protoprinter.

I don't know about other delta models, but can tell you about my Kossel:

I own a Kossel mini and I like it very much, but it is a bit too mini for me,
the AVR is lacking, it struggles at higher speeds and lots of small moves.

I have had problems with the extruder motor, the direct drive did not work for me,
I had to replace the motor with an expensive gearboxed one which works great.

My next printer is going to be a Kossel XL with a RepRap Duet controller,
this board has an ARM CPU running at 84MHz, ethernet and web interface.

Currently there is no delta firmware for this board, but I expect this to exist soon

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Kossel Mini - A bit flimsy to be honest, it's under built, expensive, and the upper frame assembly is a bit silly from an engineering standpoint.

Can you explain what you mean? I probably don't know what I am missing...?

It is rock solid, I don't have a bed probe and don't need one, I turn it on and it prints great.
The upper frame assembly works for me! Screws to lift the top to tighten the belts are easy...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2014 08:56AM by 3D-ES.

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RS-Online Ormerod #263, Kossel mini with Minitronics, Prusa i3 MK2

Yes, I heard a lot about problems with direct drive extruders and I will use an airtripper with geared NEMA 17 as well...The printing dimesions of the Hexagon will be about 20 x 20 x 50cm. Enough for me. The original Kossel was too small for me as well - I wanted at least the build room of my Prusa i3...

Manu

I am not sure about the short lived cheap linear rails. My rods are just as the day I bought them with no wear. The printer admittedly has about 200 hours on it +-50 hours. The only thing I did was grease the rods once every 100 hours of use. As for the linear rods being short lived, time will tell, but IMHO if properly greased they will live long enough.

I designed my own printer in this aspect. I do not like the extruded aluminum solution. I can say this, I can put my 180lb frame sitting ontop of my printer, and she wont move a mil. Just saying woden designs are not always bad. As a material its easy to work with.

One thing I would do if I were to redesign my printer, besides going with larger still print surface, is to use linear rails. Those should provide an easy mounting solution with some noise reduction.

One more thing I can say is that my linear rails although stretched and mounted to wood, do not resonate much. There is more noise coming from my PSU than the rails.

---

My Personal Blog. Build blog.
[engineerd3d.ddns.net]

Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

You could check out my Cherry Pi IIIS design on Thingiverse

[www.thingiverse.com]

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3DRapidClone
Note to the OP: Sheepdog created the Griffin and has a kickstarter for the Griffin Pro. There's obvious bias above.

Further more, there is far more communal support for the Kossel Mini than any other Delta Printer out there.

Op asked for opinions, opinions are always biased, that's why they are called opinions, not facts.

Our Kickstarter has ended.
I make nothing on open source.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2014 06:45PM by sheepdog43.

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3D-ES
Can you explain what you mean? I probably don't know what I am missing...?

It is rock solid, I don't have a bed probe and don't need one, I turn it on and it prints great.
The upper frame assembly works for me! Screws to lift the top to tighten the belts are easy...

Moving the top to tighten belts compromises the frames structural rigidity and effects alignment.
You have to make a choice, you can either twist the entire frame to tighten a belt, or you allow some slop to allow for the top to be twisted without effecting the rest of the frame. Not both, at least not with how the Kossel does it. Every time you alter that top frame, you alter the geometry of the frame, the more off your belts are, the more twist you introduce into the frame.

The upper frame is extremely important to the structural strength, it should be clamped solid, not used as a tensioning device and moved about. Besides that, it uses what, one m3 screw to hold each tower? We use three M5s, giving us seven times the clamping force (I once stood on the mini). Also the horizontal rails on the Kossel are held in place only by four m3 screws, the Griffin uses four M5, plus a tapered tongue to lock it in place, the bolts can be finger tight and the frame will still be rigid due to the tapered tongues. I once missed tightening one of them once and didn't know until the bolt fell out while carrying it.

I'm not saying the Kossel Mini is bad, it works, but there are better ways to do things.

I got a Mini-Kossel kit from Think3d Print3d and while it ain't bulletproof if you follow their instructions and take your time with the calibration it will print very well.

Of course the frame could be stiffer but I have no evidence that stiffness is an issue. With a genuine J-Head 0.1mm layers and 0.3mm both print very cleanly.

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sheepdog43

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3DRapidClone
Note to the OP: Sheepdog created the Griffin and has a kickstarter for the Griffin Pro. There's obvious bias above.

Further more, there is far more communal support for the Kossel Mini than any other Delta Printer out there.

Op asked for opinions, opinions are always biased, that's why they are called opinions, not facts.

Our Kickstarter has ended.
I make nothing on open source.

And that is perfectly fine. But OP should have full disclosure on what he is being presented. Not one con came from you speaking about the griffin.

All I gave him were facts minus my opinion about the cherry pi.

1.) You are the creator of the griffin printer. Check.
2.) You had a kick starter for the griffin pro. Check.
3.) The kossel mini has far more communal support than any other delta out there. Check.

The griffin delta is a great printer. No need to get defensive as I wasn't accusing you of hiding anything to promote your own design. But facts are facts and if it is going to be opinions that sways him he should have the full scope of it all.

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sheepdog43
Moving the top to tighten belts compromises the frames structural rigidity and effects alignment.
You have to make a choice, you can either twist the entire frame to tighten a belt, or you allow some slop to allow for the top to be twisted without effecting the rest of the frame. Not both, at least not with how the Kossel does it. Every time you alter that top frame, you alter the geometry of the frame, the more off your belts are, the more twist you introduce into the frame.

The upper frame is extremely important to the structural strength, it should be clamped solid, not used as a tensioning device and moved about. Besides that, it uses what, one m3 screw to hold each tower? We use three M5s, giving us seven times the clamping force (I once stood on the mini). Also the horizontal rails on the Kossel are held in place only by four m3 screws, the Griffin uses four M5, plus a tapered tongue to lock it in place, the bolts can be finger tight and the frame will still be rigid due to the tapered tongues. I once missed tightening one of them once and didn't know until the bolt fell out while carrying it.

I'm not saying the Kossel Mini is bad, it works, but there are better ways to do things.

You are correct, if one of the tower screws unscrews itself, there is a problem, no backup there,
but I think that the screw that is used to lift the top keeps it from lowering if it comes loose..?

Since building it I only had to tighten the filament spur gear, which almost fell out while printing.
I don't move the printer around, that probably helps a bit to keep the printer fine-tuned as it is...

My Kossel uses Delrin V-rollers instead of rails, it is easy to setup and runs perfectly smooth.

That Griffin printer looks solid and that gorilla glass is nice! Shipping to Europe is probably expensive...?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2014 05:47AM by 3D-ES.

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RS-Online Ormerod #263, Kossel mini with Minitronics, Prusa i3 MK2

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3DRapidClone
And that is perfectly fine. But OP should have full disclosure on what he is being presented. Not one con came from you speaking about the griffin.

The griffin delta is a great printer. No need to get defensive as I wasn't accusing you of hiding anything to promote your own design. But facts are facts and if it is going to be opinions that sways him he should have the full scope of it all.

Yes, because the one voice mentioning Griffin is totally going to sway him.
Actually I should have mentioned it, but I had just woken up and was on my way out. Also, I wasn't trying to get defensive, just trying to keep it from turning into a half page response like this keeps trying to be (and thanks!).



At any rate, cons for the Griffin OS... (I did say some cons for the Pro)
Yes, it has a smaller community, but you can attribute much of that to age and the fact that the Kossel Mini requires that community, it was released without much documentation and the community has had to rely on each other for almost everything when it came to building one. Other than that and personal preferences, I'm at a loss. I'm not saying the Griffin is perfect, I know where it can be improved, and people do have their preferences, but in terms of cons or problem areas, I can't really come up with anything significant. I spent the last year pretty much beating it up as much as I could and subjected it to criticisms of multiple engineers and it's come through with flying colors. If someone does have some criticism, I'd be happy to listen so long as it's reasonable (we've had some absolutely insane requests and criticism!).

Oh, and since it was mentioned, you can build a Griffin on a PrintRbot as well. It wouldn't be the first, or second for that matter. Just be prepared, it can take quite a while to print the lower frame connectors on one.

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3D-ES
You are correct, if one of the tower screws unscrews itself, there is a problem, no backup there,
but I think that the screw that is used to lift the top keeps it from lowering if it comes loose..?

Since building it I only had to tighten the filament spur gear, which almost fell out while printing.
I don't move the printer around, that probably helps a bit to keep the printer fine-tuned as it is...

My Kossel uses Delrin V-rollers instead of rails, it is easy to setup and runs perfectly smooth.

That Griffin printer looks solid and that gorilla glass is nice! Shipping to Europe is probably expensive...?

One top screw does the actual adjustment, the other locks the top frame in place, which is great for a belt tensioner. The problem is that neither does much to tie the top into the rest of the frame as a cohesive unit to add rigidity, as a result, almost all of the Kossel Mini's strength lies in the lower frame and that little bit of grip that one screw at the top provides. At low speeds (which many seem to use), that's fine, but run that printer at high speed or a tall object and see what it does. Most delta owners, particularly the ones I know, seem scared to print tall objects.

Not moving it certainly helps keep it in check, I've seen a few printers that can't even handle being bumped without losing calibration. V-rollers in T-slot is a compromise, it works, Delrin is tough, but it's clearly not the right way to do it. I'm curious to see how long before they show wear. Given the choice of that or sliders, I'd do that. When I built the first Griffin XL, the sliders alone were going to cost me $600. Then I found V-slot, awesome stuff.


Thanks, picking up the Mini, is like picking up a cinder block, it could qualify as a deadly weapon if you hit someone with it.

Shipping on Gorilla Glass? To the EU is probably about $10-$15 (just a guess). It should be up on our site soon, we have 170mm and 300mm diameters in stock (square is planned for the future). Price is a bit more than Borosilicate, but not a lot.

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sheepdog43

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3DRapidClone
And that is perfectly fine. But OP should have full disclosure on what he is being presented. Not one con came from you speaking about the griffin.

The griffin delta is a great printer. No need to get defensive as I wasn't accusing you of hiding anything to promote your own design. But facts are facts and if it is going to be opinions that sways him he should have the full scope of it all.

Yes, because the one voice mentioning Griffin is totally going to sway him.
Actually I should have mentioned it, but I had just woken up and was on my way out. Also, I wasn't trying to get defensive, just trying to keep it from turning into a half page response like this keeps trying to be (and thanks!).



At any rate, cons for the Griffin OS... (I did say some cons for the Pro)
Yes, it has a smaller community, but you can attribute much of that to age and the fact that the Kossel Mini requires that community, it was released without much documentation and the community has had to rely on each other for almost everything when it came to building one. Other than that and personal preferences, I'm at a loss. I'm not saying the Griffin is perfect, I know where it can be improved, and people do have their preferences, but in terms of cons or problem areas, I can't really come up with anything significant. I spent the last year pretty much beating it up as much as I could and subjected it to criticisms of multiple engineers and it's come through with flying colors. If someone does have some criticism, I'd be happy to listen so long as it's reasonable (we've had some absolutely insane requests and criticism!).

Oh, and since it was mentioned, you can build a Griffin on a PrintRbot as well. It wouldn't be the first, or second for that matter. Just be prepared, it can take quite a while to print the lower frame connectors on one.

Actually, I do have a question since I've been pondering whether or not to build the Griffin due to its high speed capabilities. How does v-rollers handle that kind of high speed, i.e. (300mm/s +) Because I am willing to pay that extra money for linear rails if it helps, though noisy?

I'm looking forward to build new delta printer because i'm not happy with my Rostock. It's very loud and not stable enough to print fast. I wanted to build extended version of 3DR printer but i'm kind of curious about that Griffin. The only big problem is [us.misumi-ec.com] They are overpriced in poland and cost A LOT. And is Griffin a reprap? Because i can"t find any site or anything about how to build it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2014 06:38AM by AFK-er.

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AFK-er
I'm looking forward to build new delta printer because i'm not happy with my Rostock. It's very loud and not stable enough to print fast. I wanted to build extended version of 3DR printer but i'm kind of curious about that Griffin. The only big problem is [us.misumi-ec.com] They are overpriced in poland and cost A LOT. And is Griffin a reprap? Because i can"t find any site or anything about how to build it.

[griffinprinter.org]

Here you go, everything is neatly documented. It's a reprap, It's a Kossel Mini derivative that uses V-slot, and different ball joints, its similar to Ultibots, but ultibots uses a PG35L micro direct drive extruder. Griffin is designed for Geared Stepper motors.

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3DRapidClone
Actually, I do have a question since I've been pondering whether or not to build the Griffin due to its high speed capabilities. How does v-rollers handle that kind of high speed, i.e. (300mm/s +) Because I am willing to pay that extra money for linear rails if it helps, though noisy?

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AFK-er
I'm looking forward to build new delta printer because i'm not happy with my Rostock. It's very loud and not stable enough to print fast. I wanted to build extended version of 3DR printer but i'm kind of curious about that Griffin. The only big problem is [us.misumi-ec.com] They are overpriced in poland and cost A LOT. And is Griffin a reprap? Because i can"t find any site or anything about how to build it.

The frame and linear system on the Griffin can handle higher speeds than the electronics can handle. That is to say, your Ramps and stepper drivers will run out of steam before the frame and linear system shows a problem. We actually had to develop a new bowden and extruder setup to push the frame to it's limit and when we did, we broke the hot end. We rarely run the Mini below 200mm/s and the XL at 100mm/s. The XL is still using the original wheels I put on it, and probably have at the very least 1000 hours on them. They are pretty much zero maintenance, no oily rails, no tracks to lube... When we started looking at laser cutters and decided to build our own, it wasn't even a question that it would use V-slot as will our next generation printer we are planning.

The reason most linear systems are noisy is that you have metal to metal contact, the Rostock has it worse because the wood amplifies it. The Rostock is a very loud printer in my experience. The Griffin has neither wood or metal to metal contact. You can sleep in the room while it's running at 100mm/s, I often watch tv while sitting right next to the XL running at that speed. At printer meetups where we have a dozen printers, people comment on the lack of noise from it. We usually have 2 Griffins running at once, and the cartesian 10 feet away is louder and it uses Igus bearings.

If you build one and decide you want a probe, you should use the Traxxas joints/Kossel diagonals and effector, rather than the listed Losi joints. The Losi joints are lighter, but probing is very hard on them. To use the Traxxas ends, you can either drill the carriers or, I have some adapted to use them that you can download. For the effector, you just use the stock Kossel one. That was one concession I made on designing it, I wanted it to have a compatible effector so various probes and such designed for the Kossel Mini would fit.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2014 10:27PM by sheepdog43.

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3DRapidClone
[griffinprinter.org]

Here you go, everything is neatly documented. It's a reprap, It's a Kossel Mini derivative that uses V-slot, and different ball joints, its similar to Ultibots, but ultibots uses a PG35L micro direct drive extruder. Griffin is designed for Geared Stepper motors.

The extruder is a dual system, it can use a standard Nema 17 or a geared Nema 16/17stepper. I don't recommend the normal Nema if you plan to run fast, I made it that way because I planned on going geared eventually, but also it allows people to build it a bit cheaper.

It's not a Kossel Mini derivative.
I started out trying to scale up the original Kossel and Cerberus as well as incorporate things I learned from the Rostock and it was a disaster. When I started designing it, the Kossel Mini and Cerberus Pup hadn't even been revealed to the public yet. When I gave up scaling those, I started designing my own from scratch. About this time, the Mini Kossel came out, but it mostly just reinforced that I was going the right direction, as I had a pretty good idea of where I was going with my own design. I'm not saying it had no influence, but if you were to look at the prototypes, it's obvious that it took it's influence more from the Kossel legacy and Cerberus.

Many things look similar because they were natural progressions of things done at the time, but because I spent months getting things dialed (mildly O.C.D.), by the time I released the Griffin, people thought everything was just taken straight from the Mini.

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sheepdog43

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3DRapidClone
[griffinprinter.org]

Here you go, everything is neatly documented. It's a reprap, It's a Kossel Mini derivative that uses V-slot, and different ball joints, its similar to Ultibots, but ultibots uses a PG35L micro direct drive extruder. Griffin is designed for Geared Stepper motors.

The extruder is a dual system, it can use a standard Nema 17 or a geared Nema 16/17stepper. I don't recommend the normal Nema if you plan to run fast, I made it that way because I planned on going geared eventually, but also it allows people to build it a bit cheaper.

It's not a Kossel Mini derivative.
I started out trying to scale up the original Kossel and Cerberus as well as incorporate things I learned from the Rostock and it was a disaster. When I started designing it, the Kossel Mini and Cerberus Pup hadn't even been revealed to the public yet. When I gave up scaling those, I started designing my own from scratch. About this time, the Mini Kossel came out, but it mostly just reinforced that I was going the right direction, as I had a pretty good idea of where I was going with my own design. I'm not saying it had no influence, but if you were to look at the prototypes, it's obvious that it took it's influence more from the Kossel legacy and Cerberus.

Many things look similar because they were natural progressions of things done at the time, but because I spent months getting things dialed (mildly O.C.D.), by the time I released the Griffin, people thought everything was just taken straight from the Mini.

Are the traxxas and losi joints equal in terms of handling that kind of speed? Im not sure if the cherry pi effector design can handle that speed either.

My apologies on the kossel mini derivative assumption. It just looks very similar (the motor vertex triangular design, dual extrusion on those bottom vertexs, bottom mount motors, exposed belts holding on the the carriages, single frame upper vertex like on the XL, geared stepper extruder, interchangeability with the kossel mini effector, exposed metal frame)

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3DRapidClone

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AFK-er
I'm looking forward to build new delta printer because i'm not happy with my Rostock. It's very loud and not stable enough to print fast. I wanted to build extended version of 3DR printer but i'm kind of curious about that Griffin. The only big problem is [us.misumi-ec.com] They are overpriced in poland and cost A LOT. And is Griffin a reprap? Because i can"t find any site or anything about how to build it.

[griffinprinter.org]

Here you go, everything is neatly documented. It's a reprap, It's a Kossel Mini derivative that uses V-slot, and different ball joints, its similar to Ultibots, but ultibots uses a PG35L micro direct drive extruder. Griffin is designed for Geared Stepper motors.

Thank you for your reply. Can you tell if it's possible to build it without using v-slots on top and bottom? Or maby can you tell me some desing without using any v-slots? I can't manage to buy too many of them

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AFK-er

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3DRapidClone

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AFK-er
I'm looking forward to build new delta printer because i'm not happy with my Rostock. It's very loud and not stable enough to print fast. I wanted to build extended version of 3DR printer but i'm kind of curious about that Griffin. The only big problem is [us.misumi-ec.com] They are overpriced in poland and cost A LOT. And is Griffin a reprap? Because i can"t find any site or anything about how to build it.

[griffinprinter.org]

Here you go, everything is neatly documented. It's a reprap, It's a Kossel Mini derivative that uses V-slot, and different ball joints, its similar to Ultibots, but ultibots uses a PG35L micro direct drive extruder. Griffin is designed for Geared Stepper motors.

Thank you for your reply. Can you tell if it's possible to build it without using v-slots on top and bottom? Or maby can you tell me some desing without using any v-slots? I can't manage to buy too many of them

The Griffin Printer printed parts have grooves in them to have better contact with the V-slots. So unless you modify all the files, which would be horribly inefficient. I would say go with something else.

If you go with Cherry Pi, I believe those are also v-slot but (can support regular 2020 t-slots?) or the Kossel Mini standard version which is 1515 T-slot extrusions or the 2020 modified versions up online.

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3DRapidClone
Are the traxxas and losi joints equal in terms of handling that kind of speed? Im not sure if the cherry pi effector design can handle that speed either.

My apologies on the kossel mini derivative assumption. It just looks very similar (the motor vertex triangular design, dual extrusion on those bottom vertexs, bottom mount motors, exposed belts holding on the the carriages, single frame upper vertex like on the XL, geared stepper extruder, interchangeability with the kossel mini effector, exposed metal frame)

No worries about the Kossel Mini, it's easy to see why people think that. Put them next to each other and the differences really start to show up, equally sized, the Kossel Mini looks dainty/delicate and the Griffin industrial. If someone shows up this Friday to the St. Louis 3d Printer Meetup with a Kossel Mini, I'll try and get a side by side picture. Some nights we get two of them, other nights none.

The Losi joints have a greater range of motion and they are lighter, the Traxxas are stronger. Both handle the speed.
The Losi joints just cannot handle a ton of probing as it puts a lot of load on them, depending on sensitivity, you may get 2000 taps or you may get 10,000 taps before they show a lot of slop. That sounds like a lot, but if you use Rich's Autocalibration on an XL sized Griffin, it can take several hundred iterations, with 10 taps each. I also made some changes to help reduce that load, but the Traxxas ends do handle it a bit better, if only due to the M4 setscrews rather than using M3, which wallow out the printed diagonal rod ends.

Remember, none of these ball joints were really intended for that sort of impact.

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3DRapidClone
The Griffin Printer printed parts have grooves in them to have better contact with the V-slots. So unless you modify all the files, which would be horribly inefficient. I would say go with something else.

Standard 20x20 might fit, I will have to look. As mentioned though, it would eliminate some of the benefit of the Griffin design.

There are V-slot retailers all over now, you don't have to buy directly from Open Builds if that's the problem. I know there are at least 4 other places in the US and at least one in the E.U.


Update: I just checked, Misumi 20x20 will not fit, the frame would need changing to do it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2014 05:31PM by sheepdog43.

I am very interested in making the griffin printer, i think the design looks very stable, however, i've not seen much in the way of prints that it has done, is there pictures of the quality of prints that it produces? I currently have a Prusa i3 and i am suffering from Z banding (despite months of attempts to sort it), Ive not seen Z banding on other delta printers so I assume that the Griffin doesnt suffer from this issue?

No Delta printer has Z-banding issues!

---

Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Delta printers don't really have to deal with ghosting either in their prints, we don't have the same kind of oscillation you get from swinging a heavy carriage around quickly.

Some deltas do have banding issues, just not the same way as cartesians. In both cases though, I think some of it is due to the digital nature of 3d printing, look at banding on low color pictures, same thing. The finer your step resolution, the better your prints will be.

As for quality, it's pretty simple.
Most printers of similar design will always print similarly because they use the same electronics, motors and drive systems, the big differences are going to be the frame (stiffness/acuracy), firmware and the person tweaking the settings. The Griffin is one of the more stout designs out, this allowing higher speed and greater accuracy.

At any rate, here is Adalinda the singing dragon, one of our favorite prints. We scaled it up to about 10inches tall (250mm). This was done on our Pro XL @ 100mm/s, 0.05mm layer height, and I think 20% infill. It took about 24 hours. There's no post processing done other than removing the brim, this is how it came off the printer. Unfortunately, I can't get a better full picture, that was a text message I sent shortly after it was made a couple months ago, since then someone broke it while at a demo and we haven't made another since. The head should give an idea though, it feels silky.

Note that this is the decimated (low res) version, if you look at the cheek, you can actually make out the triangles/diamonds in the print. I don't remember if Cura couldn't handle that size print (we later found a bug preventing huge print processing), or if the computer we used to run the printer couldn't but the full version refused to print at that size so we had to use the decimated version.