Delta auto leveling

Now that I finally got my effector tracking true, I'm going to start calibrating. I have been out of the latest advancements in bed autoleveling as Ive primarily been using my I-3 derivative printer and "if its not broken" theory for keeping my z height manual.
Now that im going forward with my delta Id like to implement the autolevel features that I see in Marlin. So....Where do I start, what needs to be made (probe wise), etc.
Thanks!
Jeff

I believe that the available probe options that are working today are:

1. Allen wrench, as on the Kossel.
2. Force Sense Resistors (FSR), using JohnSL's adapter board, an Adafruit Trinket, or wired to your controller.
3. AndyCart's Cherry Pi III effector, using a switch and hinged hotend, based on Holoped's original design.
4. Various proximity sensors being tested.

Neither of my printers have been stable enough to get repeatable results using Holoped's original probe or FSR's, so I cannot comment on the functionality with any of these options.....

This would be under the proximity sensors, but the Hall-o effect sensor z-probe (others would be optical sensor z-probe) is one that I implemented on my printer when I first got it up and running. The downside is that it has to be manually deployed. I will say that I no longer use it because I prefer to manually calibrate, but I do recommend using this design because it is a good design and it was a really cool way of sensing when the probe hit the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2014 10:41AM by Wildcard.

I just wasnt sure whats out there - I was planning on manually calibrating but after I saw the "hopping" videos for calibration I figured Id ask if its worth the extra time NOW as im printing my adapters for my hot end and would incorperate something if needed. Id like something thats non obtrusive and doesnt have to move via a servo or motor of some sorts - seems like too much BS and might not stay true as well.

The johann mini kossel version along with the other versions don't have servos and doing add too much weight. I originally wanted to use autocalibration because I felt that it would be a great way to get things calibrated for its first print, but the autocalibration is only effective if you have a good/nicely calibrated machine to begin with. Many have said that the autocalibration feature is not a substitute for first calibrating the machines towers and center. I have multiple all met hotends with different nozzles and heights that require me to change the z height, so in theory it might benefit me. I've got my machine tuned exactly the way that I want it to be, so I wouldn't like my parameters being changed every time I turn on the machine and run the G29 code. Although, there are many people who love the autocalibration feature, I guess it is really down preference.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2014 11:36AM by Wildcard.

I just re-mounted the heated bed on my printer after an effector/carriage change without the FSR's connected. I spent more time trying (unsuccessfully) to get auto-calibration working than I did manually calibrating, so I left the connectors unplugged to avoid the temptation to waste more hours of printer time trying to get it working.....

I' a great believer in keeping it simple. The hinged hot end mount and microswitch combination in my Cherry Pi effector just works