Cherry Pi III Is Available

Yes, having the connectors at the edges does make the wiring neater.

I couldn't fit the Duet under the heated bed in my original Mini Kossel, because there wasn't enough space between the motors for it. I guess you are using a large Kossel frame? I've now switched to a larger Kossel frame, but as I am using a mains-powered heated bed, I have the PSU and SSR under the bed. So I still have the Duet in an enclosure attached to the Z tower.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Mine is a standard Cherry Pi, so no problem with space for this board. I'm using an XBox PSU so that has to stay outside.

This morning I tried to get the heated bed up to 110C, and the MOSFET (or whatever the device is next to the connector) was getting uncomfortably warm, almost painfully hot (so was the cable to the bed - something else to change!). I think I'll be fitting a SSR (or equivalent) very soon.

The next task is to fit some form of Z-probe. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to fit one of your IR probes - at 25mm across I think it would be too wide for fitting to the obvious location (on the narrow side of the effector's hexagon base). I'm still thinking about the best solution...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/10/2015 11:10AM by David J.

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David J
Mine is a standard Cherry Pi, so no problem with space for this board. I'm using an XBox PSU so that has to stay outside.

This morning I tried to get the heated bed up to 110C, and the MOSFET (or whatever the device is next to the connector) was getting uncomfortably warm, almost painfully hot (so was the cable to the bed - something else to change!). I think I'll be fitting a SSR (or equivalent) very soon.

The next task is to fit some form of Z-probe. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to fit one of your IR probes - at 25mm across I think it would be too wide for fitting to the obvious location (on the narrow side of the effector's hexagon base). I'm still thinking about the best solution...

David

I managed to get one of daves older full sized ones onto my Pi effector in the space on the narrow side and his mini version will be even easier to get in.

I assume you are usewing the version that has the Alloy tubes above the effector?

If so all you need is a small right angled bracket to fit under the effector held in place by one of the screws that attach the tubes etc and step the board out by about 4 mm and it will then fit.

HTH

Doug.

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David J
The next task is to fit some form of Z-probe. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to fit one of your IR probes - at 25mm across I think it would be too wide for fitting to the obvious location (on the narrow side of the effector's hexagon base). I'm still thinking about the best solution...

My intention is that it fits below the effector plate, so that it can be placed closer to the nozzle. It is 19mm high, and the bottom edge should be 1 to 2mm above the tip of the nozzle. So to fit it, you need 20mm minimum between the bottom of the effector plate and the tip of the nozzle.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I've fitted Pointy's effector that allows me to fit the E3Dv6 with its standard fan - this means that the base of the effector is only about 5 or 6 mm above the nozzle tip. I've also tried moving the effector to the limit of its movement and the space between the rods will be very close (or slightly less) than 25mm - too tight to be comfortable.

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Matt,Wheatley
I have a die tap handle I'm hoping the bit will fit into, I'm hoping that will do the job.

Hi Matt. I've been offline for a couple of days so missed your earlier posts. I run mine in a small battery drill but run it backwards. It removes the high spots without actually cutting in. It may depend on the type of mill you have though. I only have one and this works for me.

Andy

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AndyCart

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Matt,Wheatley
I have a die tap handle I'm hoping the bit will fit into, I'm hoping that will do the job.

Hi Matt. I've been offline for a couple of days so missed your earlier posts. I run mine in a small battery drill but run it backwards. It removes the high spots without actually cutting in. It may depend on the type of mill you have though. I only have one and this works for me.

Andy

Another way may be to mount a ball onto a 4 mm shaft and use that to clean out the sockets using either some fine abrasive paste (Car engine Valve lapping paste or similar) or in the case of ABS parts some acetone.

Doug

Nearly got mine all set up. Got it moving flat over the bed, hopefully going to do a test print tonight. Id like to change my hot end to the e3dv6 pretty soon as I have some colourfabb xt carbon fibre. Has anyone got a mount for a v6, keep seeing some people mention it but can't find any links to it.

After cleaning the ball holes I Just managed to run auto auto calibration to 0.03 in around 30 minutes using the hot-end and the bed as the z probe switch. All I have to do now is see if it prints.

@ wiganite
With Zprobe. 10mm/8mm ball bearing
[www.thingiverse.com]
Or
No Zprobe 10mm ball bearing
[www.thingiverse.com]
Or
Look through this thread for more!!! (There is a couple)

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/11/2015 06:16PM by mikes3ds.

Thanks Mikes3d. Looks good!

Hey all, me again haha. I'm still having issues with mine. Here's the latest video of failure:

[www.youtube.com]

I think I might have an issue with the nozzle because sometimes the extrusion "curls" straight after exiting the nozzle. This makes it ball up or cause irregularities, which seem to snowball into bigger issues as the print continues. Should I just get a new hot end?

Oh, and I think I asked earlier if my G-Codes settings were fine because it seemed to take 3+ minutes to travel from the start position to the print starting... So here they are!

Start G-Code

; Default start code
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED}
M107 ; Turn off fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
{IF_BED}M190 S{BED}
; Activate all used extruder
{IF_EXT0}M104 T0 S{TEMP0}
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
{IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0}

End G-Code

; Default end code
;G1 X0 Y0 Z130 ; Get extruder out of way. Uncomment to use!
M107 ; Turn off fan
; Disable all extruder
G91 ; Relative positioning
{IF_EXT0}T0
{IF_EXT0}G1 E-1 ; Reduce filament pressure
M104 T0 S0
G90 ; Absolute positioning
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
M140 S0 ; Disable heated bed
M84 ; Turn steppers off

I don't have any code for before extruder switch or after extruder switch.

Oh, since I wasn't having any luck in actually printed, I mucked around and put together a way to start prints from work...


Screenshot taken from my PC @ work, looking at my PC @ home!

It's the simple combination of Chrome Remote Desktop to handle the RDC, a program called iSpy to view a few webcams at once (which works fine in free mode, since the paid mode only really enables remote viewing of cams... not a big issue since you're sharing your desktop!), Repetier Host obviously, and a couple of cheap webcams (had one already and got the second one for AU$10 delivered). Works really well and is pretty damn cool to show people, since you can control it from your mobile! I actually got an old PC from my friend which I'm running exclusively as a server for my 3D printer (soon to be printers, as I'll have a M3D Micro delivered soon).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/2015 06:50PM by pugzor.

It's not unusual for the filament to tend to curl up as it exits the nozzle, especially for PLA. If it does it when printing the first layer, then I suspect that either the nozzle is too high above the bed, or you have an adhesion problem.

Both my printers run Duet electronics, which provides a web interface, and I often check the print status from my mobile when I am in another part of the house. But I would never start a print remotely unless someone is on hand with a fire extinguisher if something goes horribly wrong. There have been questions raised about whether home insurance would cover damage from a fire started by a 3D printer.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Mine appears to take ages from homing to starting print. Does the start GCode control this or is it usually in the firmware. I have a smoothieboard.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2015 02:37PM by wiganite.

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wiganite
Mine appears to take ages from homing to starting print.

That's usually because it is waiting for the hot end and the bed to reach the requested temperatures. If you monitor the temperatures during that period, you will see it heating up.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Cheers. I'll have a look at that when it's back together. If it was up to temperature before starting, would the speed be set by whatever I set in the file from my slicer?

If you amend the G1 Z15 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED} entry to G1 Z15 F5000 all should be well

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AndyCart
If you amend the G1 Z15 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED} entry to G1 Z15 F5000 all should be well

Thanks Andy

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AndyCart
If you amend the G1 Z15 F{Z_TRAVEL_SPEED} entry to G1 Z15 F5000 all should be well

I assume that'd fix my problem too with the long print start thing?

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dc42
It's not unusual for the filament to tend to curl up as it exits the nozzle, especially for PLA. If it does it when printing the first layer, then I suspect that either the nozzle is too high above the bed, or you have an adhesion problem.

Both my printers run Duet electronics, which provides a web interface, and I often check the print status from my mobile when I am in another part of the house. But I would never start a print remotely unless someone is on hand with a fire extinguisher if something goes horribly wrong. There have been questions raised about whether home insurance would cover damage from a fire started by a 3D printer.

Haha, I was thinking that too... I don't think I'd actually start a print until I was very happy with how things were going, and possibly had a fail safe system of some sort in place.

Could anybody tell me why my motor does this on retraction my settings in cura are speed 30mm/s amd retraction 4.5mm,Here is a link to a video of it.
[youtu.be]

Forgot to say it doesn't do it on every retraction.

Quick question for anyone who might know the answer:

When you buy small 12v cooling fans like this they usually come with a small connector on the wire. It seems to be the same connector regardless of whichever little fan it is.

Does anyone know what this connector is called? I want to buy the matching half to tidy up my wiring.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/17/2015 09:42AM by David J.

David

That looks like a JST connector to me

something like this 2 wire JST Extension lead (picture shows a 3 wire one but you get the idea

Try Rapid electronics for the bare plugs/sockets.

Doug

Thanks - gives me something to aim for (really, I just need any miniature 2-way plug and socket to allow me to remove stuff if necessary).

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David J
Thanks - gives me something to aim for (really, I just need any miniature 2-way plug and socket to allow me to remove stuff if necessary).

Well in that case get a set of crimps from Hobbyking for around £9 Crimps and go with Molex KK connectors which can be had from Molex housing headers and pins

They are much better than the Dupont style that we are used to (They are also the std ones that DC42 supplies with the sensor boards and are fitted to both my Duet's (one from RepRapPro and the other from Replikeo)).

Doug

Reminds me I need to place an order for some housings?

I have a pair of those crimping pliers from HK - they are very good value for money.

I think I have some 2-way housings & pins - I just need a few headers.

Do all the end stops need to be perfectly level to each other ?

I might need to re-print my top holder so it fits my switches fit, or find a better solution. (Cherry 4xl)

SUCCESS AT LAST!! (sorry for shouting, I'm happy! )

You may recall that I was having some problems a little while ago:



At that point I decided that I was fed up with Arduino/RAMPS, and splashed out on a Duet board. Later on I also bought an IR Z-probe from dc42, to make printing easier. Here is my first attempt after wiring everything up:



I am very happy with this result, considering that I haven't got a glass plate yet (and I couldn't be bothered to put kapton tape on my aluminium bed so I used blue tape and a cold bed), and I haven't yet calibrated the extruder. It's curling up at the corner, but that's due to the cold bed. It's also clear that I'm not quite extruding enough as the infill is a bit sparse.

But, considering that I was struggling before, and now with the Duet board and Z-probe it just works, makes me a happy bunny.

Here are a few pictures of the Z-probe mount on my effector (and the effector is quite another story - it's a real mongrel!)



The main body is in ABS for heat resistance as it's so close to the nozzle, and the cover is in so-called clear PLA so I can see the LED (although in reality I can see it through the ABS anyway). Ignore the fact that the wiring colour scheme doesn't match dc42's instructions - my wiring harness is full of red and black wires, so I chose something different - brown for vcc, blue for ground, orange for signal.

Apart from all that, I had to rearrange my power wiring because my XBox PSU wasn't man enough for the job, cut off the really neat braided sleeving that covered the wiring from the effector to fit in the extra wires, learn OpenSCAD to design the new Z-probe mount parts as I'd had enough of FreeCAD, and generally try to keep things as neat as tidy as possible in the process. My Prusa i3 is a real Frankenstein's monster with loads of replaced parts, bits hanging off, and other sundry hacks - I was determined to keep the Cherry Pi build neat and tidy... OK so far!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/21/2015 05:07PM by David J.

I'm glad you got it all working! I've never tested the differential IR probe on blue tape, but I guess it must work OK. Could you possibly publish your Z probe mount on Thingiverse or eleswhere, so that I can link to it in the fitting instructions?

What size print bed do you have, and what heater will you be using to heat it? For my 300mm diameter bed, I found it useful to increase the number of probe points for auto calibration from 10 to 13 - that's 6 near the periphery, 6 half way out from the centre, and the centre.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

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dc42
I'm glad you got it all working! I've never tested the differential IR probe on blue tape, but I guess it must work OK. Could you possibly publish your Z probe mount on Thingiverse or eleswhere, so that I can link to it in the fitting instructions?

I wasn't sure about the blue tape, but I gave it a try anyway. Moved the effector towards the bed, and it registered. It returned the right sort of value, and the value dropped as I raised the head, so I guessed that it was good to go. I'm off to get a piece of glass cut today, so the tape will be removed very soon.

I'll gladly put my design on Thingiverse - but there's a catch. As I said above, my effector is a mongrel; it started off as a design sent to me by Pointy that held the E3Dv6 hot end very well but it put the hot end high over the effector to squeeze in the standard E3D cooling fan, which meant that the nozzle was too close to the underside to allow the fitting of your probe. In the end I hacked an effector design by maso27, mounted 2 parts of Pointy's design (the bits that hold the hot end) on top after hacking one of them in Meshmixer, and this arrangement puts the whole of the E3Dv6 under the effector. I lost some print height, but it meant that I had loads of room to play with.

So, to cut a long story short, I can publish my mount design, I can also publish my changes to Miso's effector (standard practice on Thingiverse), but Pointy's design was unpublished and sent to me privately, and I don't want to publish that and take credit from him without his permission.

My mount could be modified to suit most effectors, as long as the user is prepared to hack OpenSCAD code. I have parameterised it as much as possible. It's probably not a lot of use to others if they're not prepared to change the code.

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dc42
What size print bed do you have, and what heater will you be using to heat it? For my 300mm diameter bed, I found it useful to increase the number of probe points for auto calibration from 10 to 13 - that's 6 near the periphery, 6 half way out from the centre, and the centre.

My print bed is 220mm diameter, one of those circular aluminium things with a PCB heating element on the back.

For the first run I only used the default 5 probing points - 4 near the periphery, one in the centre. In the next session I plan to get more ambitious. I haven't worked out how to change the number of probe points yet - is it simply a matter of adding lines to the config.g file, where it currently shows a list of 4 probe points?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/22/2015 03:00AM by David J.