Rostock Mini - Homing Issues (video)

Please help me with my brand new Rostock-Mini build. I'm so exited to get my new printer going but I come from the sheltered MakerBot land. I'm very new to Marlin, Pronter, Sanguinolou and Rostock. Using the Thing-o-matic to print the Rostock has been fantastic fun thus far but I'm struggling to move past the homing procedure.

Here is my issue surrounding homing:
The printer built and sitting upside down on my table and I'm testing the homing procedure and initial Marlin settings.

When I click on the homing button it goes through this procedure (video):
[www.youtube.com]

This is the output of my attempt of testing the endstops. First try they are all open. Then I click on one endstop (y) and they all look triggered. The last attempt is me letting the switch go and calling M119 again.

SENDING:M119
Reporting endstop status
x_max: open
y_max: open
z_max: open
>>>m119
SENDING:M119
Reporting endstop status
x_max: TRIGGERED
y_max: TRIGGERED
z_max: TRIGGERED
>>>m119
SENDING:M119
Reporting endstop status
x_max: open
y_max: open
z_max: open


My hardware is:
Sanguinololu Rev 1.3a Atmega1284p + A4988 + Endstop 3D Printer Kit


Here is my configuration.h settings:
[docs.google.com]


Thank you, thank you, in advance for all your help and this forum. I'm lost.

Okay, figured out the issue. My issue was caused by the over complication of the Sainsmart endstops.

Here are my exact endstops:
[www.sainsmart.com]

In that link you will find this image:



Notice that this version has 4 connections. Most of the material refers to hard-wiring the endstops to the switches. To simulate this I only connected the S and (one of) the GND wires from theSainsmart mechanical endstop to the SIG and GND on the Sanguinololu. By using the M119 command I could test the endstops to see if I chose the correct GND wire from the endstops.

Now I have what seems to be the incorrect number of steps. When my machine homes it almost vibrates off my desk and goes way over 1mm when I tell it to move 1mm. Perhaps something to do with microsteppng?? I will search this forum for help in other posts.

Thank you all very much!! This forum and the members rock or shall I say "rostock"... ---said with pinky near mouth and one eye-brow raised.

Dear Mike

(i am not an expert but i'll try)

first, is the marlin you'r using the latest one?

i found many difference between what i have and urs (i dwl the latest for my delta)
there is many things in ur config file and i think you should adjust

first:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 -1

if you dont have (thermocouple with AD595) change the value to 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0

second:

you have

#define INVERT_X_DIR true // DELTA does not invert
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true

this should be as mentioned

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // DELTA does not invert
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false

third:
you have

#define X_MAX_POS 400
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 400  
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 400
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

and this should be

#define X_MAX_POS    DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define X_MIN_POS    -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MAX_POS    DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Y_MIN_POS    -DELTA_PRINTABLE_RADIUS
#define Z_MAX_POS 192      MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

(delta printable radius) for your build

max position should be +
min position should be -

z max position is (Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing)
z min should be 0

fourth:

you have commented out

//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

comment them

#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

fifth:
you have

#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 100

again this (Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing) same as z max mentioned before

and you have

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {40, 40, 40, 760*1.1}

mine is working well

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80, 80, 80, 100}

this what i can notice in ur attached config file

and i did not find those line:

#define XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION 80
#define XYZ_MICROSTEPS 16
#define XYZ_BELT_PITCH 2
#define XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH 20
#define XYZ_STEPS (XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION * XYZ_MICROSTEPS / double(XYZ_BELT_PITCH) / double(XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH))

Again as Andy suggested for me:

1- dwl the latest marlin and adjust exact measurement for ur built

2- is all the jumper under stepper driver on your board populated? (i am using the same with 1/16 micro steps with full jumper occupied)(mine is ramp1.4)

now for your endstop

you should be very careful with them, if you shorten VCC + and GN mostly you will loose your board (i read many thread about people damaged their boards)

for me its (mechanical endstop v1.2) geeetech (attached image and Component Silkscreen)




002.pdf


i only ignored one GND
Connect SIG to S on my board
connect one GND to - on my board
connect VCC to + in my board

(before you do anything refer to your board manual wiki and never shorten VCC and GND)

you can find my configuration file attached

Configuration.h

off course you have to change your board to 62

and i have this LCD ((http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller))

if you don't have comment it out

//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

if you have other model comment it

hope this will help

Regards

LB-3D

Wow, thank you so much for taking the time to do that comparison.

Missing jumpers were the issue. I must have been running full steps and almost vibrating my machine apart. I know how this happened, too. I'm new to the board and the use of the Polu boards so I stuck them right in when I got the kit and had since then forgot that there are jumpers under the stepper boards. Ran out to Radio Shack, bought the jumpers for 2 bucks and now it is running very smooth and homes well.

I'm a little slow so I'm going to look at each of your suggestions above and let you know how it goes. Everything you commented on makes perfect sense, too.

BTW, how do I manually find the Z distance? With my MakerBot TOM, I was able to place the nozzel in the center on the plate, run a script, and it would set the x, y, and z values. Being a delta I can calculate the x and y but is there are command in gcode to set current position as 0,0,0 and then home the machine and then send another gcode command to tell me what the new z value is? I'll search the forum for that, I guess.

Thanks again. I'll post my results asap.

Mike

Mike
glad that you got it homing (i can imagine how nice when first homing correctly )

BTW, how do I manually find the Z distance?

i believe that for delta printer its slightly different

as i know once homing this mean
X = 0 bed center
Y = 0 bed center
Z= Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing (positive value)

you should measure Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing and put this value to your firmware

once uploaded and connected with pronterface

send G1 Z 010

your nozzle should be at (X 000 Y 000 Z 010) in the middle of the bed and higher 1 cm (10mm) (measure the actual distance to be sure)

try to lower Z 005 if its accurate then your Z value is right if not you should adjust your value in firmware

(if you are sure from the real distance between nozzle/bed but your printer is not moving accordingly then you have to revise - pulley diameter - NB tooth - belt - steps - ext...)

go slightly 1 mm each time until it reach 1 mm between nozzle and print bed

for example: in marlin its Z 400 but on real its 398 so adjust

#define Z_MAX_POS 400      MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS

to

#define Z_MAX_POS 398      MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS

now try again until Z in marlin match real world

after you finalize this u'r ready to start calibration

for better info check this link

[www.robertshady.com]

(if you have a z probe ur printer will calibrate itself )

regards

Endstop wiring arrangment


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2014 09:19AM by nationaleventphotography@gmail.com.