3DR "Simple" Delta Printer

Jeromelab, the older files are still on Github. Here is how you can find older files. First, go to the history section. For example, here is a link to the STL folder history:

[github.com]

In this case, you want the check-in that says "The first check-in of all files." After this check-in, I modified the parts to be stronger. Once you see this history, in the lower-right you can click "Browse code" and you will then see all the STL files from that date. You'll find those older STL files here:

[github.com]

I've been doing more work on my updated design since I had mechanical problems with the design you're printing. Right now I'm printing out the first set of parts for the base. So before the end of the weekend, I hope to have the new base built and tested.

It's been a while since I posted a progress report. A couple weeks ago I tore apart the first version of my design and started to build the new version. I've recently finished the base and the new carriages, as you can see here:



I fixed a number of issues I was having. Most importantly I provided more clearance between the spools and the base parts as I was having a lot of problems with binding. I also increased the strength of the spools a lot over RichRap's design to try to avoid the warping I was getting around the screws and nuts used to hold the spool in place.

You can also see I've moved the extrusions farther from the center, to provide more usable print area, while keeping the parts small enough to be printable on a Printrbot Simple. I've also increased the height of the carriages and made some other changes to reduce the amount of play in this part of the design. This time I've printed them in black because I ran out of yellow filament, and my new roll got sent to a non-existent address (FedEx assured me they left the package at the front door, even though the address doesn't exist).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2013 03:39PM by JohnSL.

I finished printing all the parts for the top and assembled them, as you can see here:



This time I included slots for zip ties so I can hold wires in place. I'm hoping that after I have all the wires in place it will look much neater this time.

I'm almost ready to finish the assembly. I can reuse all the remaining parts (the extruder, effector plate, and hot end holder), so I just need to cut some carbon fiber rod to length and glue them to the Traxxas joints. Then I'll need to update the dimensions in the firmware, and I should be ready to print!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2013 11:01PM by JohnSL.

Nice work. I have used your spiral bed hold downs on my mini Kossel.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2013 01:54PM by jaydmdigital.

So with the Makibox stating to ship, its got me wondering if this could be printed on a Makibox?

I'd like to get a cheap printer to learn on, but I like the idea of being able to build a bigger one

Will these pieces fit on the Maki print bed? (Printing Output: 150mm wide x 110mm deep x 90mm tall)

I'm in Aus so a lot of the printers are quite costly to ship here (~$100 for the simple) but I can get the Makibox HT (ABS) with 3 x 1kg spools (plus it ships with a spool so 4kg all up) for just under AUD$400

Yes, all the parts are designed to be printed on a Printrbot Simple, which has a 100mm x 100mm bed. I don't know the maximum height off the top of my head, but it's less than 90mm.

Quote
JohnSL
Yes, all the parts are designed to be printed on a Printrbot Simple, which has a 100mm x 100mm bed. I don't know the maximum height off the top of my head, but it's less than 90mm.

lol FYI you can squeeze 100mm on z in the printrbot simple....

Here is a quick update of my progress. I've started the final assembly and hope to have it printing again soon. In this photo, you can see the jig I've used to ensure the rods are all exactly the same length. I found this jig on Thingiverse here: [www.thingiverse.com]. This part works like a champ, and once I've finished adding the last rod, I'll remove the jig and reuse the T nuts to mount the extruder.



I've continued to make changes to the design. The most recent change is to the effector. I discovered two things. First, my first one warped a little, so I made the ring thicker. I also made the ring larger in diameter so it will be a little more removed from the heat. Finally, I rounded the tops where the joints attach to the effector because I discovered that it was binding here. Once I rounded the tops, I managed to get the full motion possible out of the joints.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2013 11:35PM by JohnSL.

Hi JohnSL,

Thanks for the update on your build.
I notice you are not using the spiral bed clamps from your GitHub files.

Watching your build updates and making prints from your Thingiverse files for my Simple.
Maybe next year I will convert my Simple to a 3DR like you did.

Thanks

Im interested in using the 3DR, and use it with using Openbuildstore v-slot for my supports (So does the grove mount, its a 20x20 extrusion), then I can do my own carriage based on
[www.thingiverse.com] with belts.

Any comments or views?

Is there a BOM for Simple-DR?
Ie how many parts I need to print of each component.
What "Vitimins" are needed?

JohnSL is the only one with the details for Simple-3DR Delta,
He posted earlier:

…….. the older files are still on Github. Here is how you can find older files. First, go to the history section. For example, here is a link to the STL folder history:

[github.com]

In this case, you want the check-in that says "The first check-in of all files." After this check-in, I modified the parts to be stronger.
Once you see this history, in the lower-right you can click "Browse code" and you will then see all the STL files from that date.
You'll find those older STL files here:

[github.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2013 03:57PM by RTurnock.

Quote
glennswest
Is there a BOM for Simple-DR?
Ie how many parts I need to print of each component.
What "Vitimins" are needed?

i don't want to answer for JohnSL, but I’ll explain from my perspective, appears if you’re not using the simple to print the delta, then you print 6 main platform parts,3 top 3 bottom, then you print off 12 of the rod ends, one carriage, the bearing sleeve/belt mounts, you'll need 3 of those, the 3 pulleys for the neema stepper motors.. i think that's all, I’m sure John will have a complete How to when he's finished, I however, with some careful prodding, convinced John to make the parts printable on the simple's 100x100x100 mm build volume, and use the nuts and bolts from the simple along with the rods and bearings, pretty much all you'd do is buy a simple for 299$, assemble it, print out the delta parts then disassemble the simple and use it's printrboard, stepper motors, rods, bearings, wires, nuts and bolts... pretty much everything but the wood pieces (lol I’ll find a use on the delta for those yet), then assemble your delta flash new firmware and BaNg! you now have a simple Delta capable of being scaled up by printing special extension blocks to make a bigger X/Y print area, as far as Z your limited to the rod length so you can buy new rods to increase that.... hope all that helps hay john correct me if I’m wrong on anything as this was your brain child and i just threw ideas at you to see what would stick...lol

OH and pick a Bowden extruder of your choice and print/assemble it for use on the “simple delta”

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2013 08:33PM by ProfessorBean.

Hi John --

Great work you are doing here. Really nice to see that one can bootstrap to a better machine. I am just getting into this!

David
Victoria

It's been a very busy few weeks at work. With the long holiday weekend, I finally had time to finish up the "final" version of my printer. I've gotten it printing, and it prints very well, so I've started to put together a series of blog posts on building the printer. I've just published the first in the series on building the 3DR "Simple" Delta printer: [trains.socha.com]

I spent quite a few hours on writing up this first post, so I'm going to take a break before I write the next post. In any event, here is what it looks like:



Some of you may notice there is a fan mount attached, but not fan. I need to go to the store and get a connector so I can extend the wires on my fan, as they're way to short now to reach the Printrboard. Also, this is a preliminary version of the fan mount--I plan to replace it with an improved version that will hold both the fan and an LED ring light.

-- John

JohnSL,

I really appreciate all the hard work you have put into the build and then following through on the documentation.
Absolutely fantastic for those of us with Printrbot Simples. Thank you.
I have the parts and will build a Mini Kossel in December/January and will then have the experience to convert the Simple into a Simple 3DR using your documentation.
Thanks for all your hard work.
Richard

Very nice!!! Ill use your design, thanks

I do not like the extruder assembly on Simple the filament jams and the gear can not push the filament into the hot end and I get failed prints unless I babysit and push down on the filament when needed.
Do you have that problem?

RTurnock-

I read your question, and hope that you might make it more clear:

1) Are you printing with a copy of the 3DR Simple Delta?
2) Are you printing with a PrintrBot Simple?
3) Are you printing with a Printrbot compact extruder?
4) Are you printing with a Bowden-tube filament feeder?
5) Which filament are you printing with, PLA, ABS, or another filament?
6) At what temperature(s) is your PrintrBot hot-end set?

It may also be relevant to know the feed rate for your set-up. I have a PrintrBot Simple and plan to use it as a RepStrap for several different 3D printers. The Simple has been reliable with PLA and a non-heated bed. My PrintrBot hot end has not malfunctioned while set at 190 deg C for the initial skirt and 185 deg C for the object printed. I use a default feed-rate of 4800 mm/min. After initial calibration, I get reliable prints, no warping, and no miss-feeds unless the filament runs out. The only jams I have experienced were my failed attempts to continue a print after the filament ran out. So far, I have used only PrintrBot filament, and it feeds reliably. I have not made any modifications to the Printrbot compact extruder other than the trivial filament guide above the feed gear (Thingiverse Thing 128240 by johnbiehler). I am not using a Bowden tube. -Phuzzy

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2013 12:25AM by Phuzzy Logic.

Great Questions by Phuzzy Logic,

1) Are you printing with a copy of the 3DR Simple Delta?

No, printing with a Printrbot Simple V2 received Oct 16, 2013, assembled and have been printing. I have a box of many failed prints. Printed Y carriage modification to raise extruder by 15 degrees and tighten up the Y carriage.
Printed vibration dampening for under the base. Printed many other things too but I have not had what I would call a successful print. I have always had to babysit the extruder.
None of the things I have printed happened without the extruder at some point failing to push filament through the hot end.

2) Are you printing with a PrintrBot Simple?
Yes, see above.

3) Are you printing with a Printrbot compact extruder?
I don't know what that is. I have the direct drive extruder assembly with the Ubis hot end. I have a fan.
I can post pictures if you wish. I have the "old" extruder wood assembly without the plastic tube. See below.

4) Are you printing with a Bowden-tube filament feeder?
No, but that is a possible modification I am considering.

5) Which filament are you printing with, PLA, ABS, or another filament?
Printing with 1.75mm PLA from KBell Enterprises. The black, very rough, ugly, free stuff that came with the Printrbot Simple is sitting in the closet.
I do not have a heated bed.

6) At what temperature(s) is your PrintrBot hot-end set?
Well, I have been experimenting with different temperatures.
I have printed mostly at over 200C, but I was searching for a reason why the extruder wasn't working properly and thought I had the temperature wrong for the filament I was using.
205C mostly lately. I am going to try printing with 195 and see what happens.
Using Repetier-Host for MAC, the data for the temperature of the hot end looks very accurate. It holds the temperature perfectly.
The only possibility that I have not investigated is if the feedback loop between the resistor and the heater is giving me a high or low reading compared to the actual temperature on the filament.

So, after taking the extruder apart completely three times and partially a few times. Here are the conclusions:
1. Operator error on my part, I had tightened down on the screw holding the bearing that pushes against the MK7 gear and so it was not turning. Ooops. Fixed that and will make sure it is turning now.

2. Printrbot sent me the "old" extruder wood assembly. In August 2013, they announced a new extruder assembly with a 1/2 inch long white guide tube and different wooden parts. I received my kit on October 16. No quality control.
So I ended up with two problems. First, the wood parts were limiting the push of the bearing against the gear. So I pulled out my knife and shaved off a little wood, now there is a very slight gap that I can see between the bottom of the bearing and the wood. Second, I have no 1/2 inch white plastic guide tube on the top of my hot end below the gear/bearing. I tried putting two different tubes in there myself but pulled them out and will try tomorrow without a guide tube.

3. Printrbot sent me a 3mm extruder gear. As a newbie, inexperienced, not knowing what I was doing, I installed the gear they sent me. That was frustrating trying to get 1.75mm filament through a 3mm gear when the bearing was not pushing against the gear back then…..and the gear had such sharp teeth that they filled up with filament. Can't believe I actually printed things with that gear.

Regarding fix for item 3. I was ordering parts to build a Mini Kossel, so I ordered three MK7 1.75mm gears, thinking I might need an extra one for the Simple. When I got the new gears, I compared them to the one in the Simple. Oh, that was an awakening. That's what learning feels like. I learned to tell the difference between 1.75mm and 3mm. So, I installed the 1.75mm gear, wrong. Then realized I need to put the set screw closest to the motor and the gear teeth farthest from the motor.
So, installed the correct size gear in the correct position.

Tomorrow, I will try printing again.
My deadline is Thursday evening. I have a presentation at a school for about 100 parents and first through 8th grade kids, who are being encouraged to create a science project. They purpose is for me to talk about my First Attempts in Learning (FAIL) and using the scientific method and using engineering methods and prototyping……none of which I am using….I am intuitively working my way through unfortunately.
My purpose is not to "sell" them on buying a Simple as a science experiment.
I am just to talk briefly and have the printer running, as three groups rotate through every 20 minutes.

OK, well, I have spilled enough of my frustration. But I have learned a ton of things about CURA, Repetier, all the settings, the Simple, turning the POTS down on the motors, how to get the first layer to "squish" and lots of other things.

Richard

Great post John! I've just started printing the lower frame on my Mendel and plan to order the remaining hardware this week. Looking forward to testing this design out, thanks for all the time and detail you've put into this project thus far!

RTurnock-

Thank you for the prompt reply. The PLA I received from PrintrBot was the clear translucent variety. Sorry to hear about the complications from the mismatched extruder parts. I have the direct-drive extruder, V2, July edition. It works well. I am reading about the Prusa I3 and mixed-up my terminology.

You may be running hot. I get good results at 185 deg C. I have read that filament failure may occur at the top of the extruder from a too-hot hot-end; convection (not conduction through PEEK) was blamed. My 2 cents...

PrintrBot will rapidly replace a shipment error, free of charge, if you e-mail or use their complaint ticket process.

I sincerely hope your presentation goes well. -Phuzzy


JohnSL-

You have an excellent project! I will keep watching until I can afford the new parts. -Phuzzy

@RTurnock

In my experience, the gear sent by printrbot for the direct drive extruder, can be used with either 1.75mm or 3mm filament, however there a few things to note, many of the wooden parts on the printrbot simple v2 need some attention with sand paper, files maybe even a dremel tool, the Y sags and causes slanted prints so you have to level your bed relative to the Y axis, then there is the problem of too much power going to the extruder motor and causing it to heat the filament, you have to turn the power down a lot, then the idler Bering, it can push pretty hard on the filament before it damages it so give it a good crank down to make sure it's pushing the PLa onto the teeth of the hobbed gear, also yes the set screw goes closer to the motor. also find and follow the guide to glue sand paper on the shafts of X and Y so the string doesn't slip, you won't be able to see the slip with your naked eye, but it shows up horribly in slanted prints, there are a myriad of adjustments that can be done, some need to be done some don't. (all the a fore mentioned subjects are the base reasons i endeavored to "upgrade" my simple v2 to the Delta)

@JohnSL

AWESOME!! i'm DLing the newest parts now, i'll be deltaing it up by next year!...lol

Hi JohnSL,

Thanks for all the documentation on the "Simple" 3DR Delta conversion.

"many of the wooden parts on the printrbot simple v2 need some attention with sand paper, files maybe even a dremel tool, "
Yes, I have been doing that too.

"the Y sags and causes slanted prints so you have to level your bed relative to the Y axis,"

Yes, I have made the Y Carriage modification and now my Y carriage is level. Before the bed was "level" as you say relative to the Y axis and was tilted.

" then there is the problem of too much power going to the extruder motor and causing it to heat the filament, you have to turn the power down a lot,"
My motor is running cool mostly and is protected from the filament by a piece of wood.

" then the idler Bering, it can push pretty hard on the filament before it damages it so give it a good crank down to make sure it's pushing the PLa onto the teeth of the hobbed gear, also yes the set screw goes closer to the motor. also find and follow the guide to glue sand paper on the shafts of X and Y so the string doesn't slip, you won't be able to see the slip with your naked eye, but it shows up horribly in slanted prints, there are a myriad of adjustments that can be done, some need to be done some don't. (all the a fore mentioned subjects are the base reasons i endeavored to "upgrade" my simple v2 to the Delta)"

ME TOO!
Look forward to converting my Simple to a 3DR Delta and follow your path in 2014.
First I have to build a Mini Kossel……should have the plastic parts by Friday.

Richard

Thanks everyone for your kind words. I just posted Part II on building the 3DR "Simple" delta printer: [trains.socha.com]. I've also updated Part I because I realized I was missing some parts in the parts list.

One thing I should note is that I'm using the hobbed bolt that came with my original V1 Printrbot Simple, rather than the V2 drive gear. The hobbed bolt and geared extruder seem to provide more than enough force to push the filament through the Bowden tube. I have doubts that the V2 drive gear would work well enough, but I haven't tried it. Also, the hobbed bolt works with Wade's extruder, whereas I'd have to modify the design to work with the V2 drive gear.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/04/2013 01:00AM by JohnSL.

I just discovered the root cause of problems with my extruder has been too low a current to the motor so the gear would not drive the filament. Have to run the motor hot and cool it with a fan and heat sinks.

Quote
RTurnock
I just discovered the root cause of problems with my extruder has been too low a current to the motor so the gear would not drive the filament. Have to run the motor hot and cool it with a fan and heat sinks.

are you sure? your hot end may just be clogged. have you tried cleaning it(i mean full disassemble remove any and all plastic bits), and soaking it in acetone? from my experience, the filament should easily flow through the hot end with just gentile pressure from your fingers, the motor provides WAY more torque then that even on a low power setting, IF the hot end is at the right temperature, you may want to try and stick a probe type temperature gauge under the insulation and measure the temperature at the thermistor, it may be off and the heat might be much lower then what your showing.

ProfessorBean,

Yes, quite sure. Sorry for the delayed response.
As soon as I moved the potentiometer clockwise, the extruder started pushing the filament, consistently through the hot end.
I probably do not have it set on the optimum value, but it finally started working.
The Printrbot Simple has so many design flaws that I had to overcome that calibration and operational settings have been slow for me to get accurate.
Closing in on two months, since receiving kit on Oct 16, of making design changes, learning how to setup the software and now I can finally turn my back on it without worrying about it messing up a print.
Richard

RTurnock,

Regarding the extruder motor yes, I've placed heat sinks on mine and have a fan rigged up blowing onto the hobbed bolt/filament area and providing some air across the heat sink. Mine jammed all the time until I got the fan on it. Now I can comfortably walk away and let it print. Longest session has been 5 hours straight. I know what you mean about baby sitting it cause I'd use the same term prior to the fan.

Am excited that I just found this thread and will likely look into printing your parts as I've just started reading up on the delta printers.

I'm building a 3DR Simple with magnetic arms and printed PLA linear bearings. You'll see it moving soon.