A second Ulti-Printer, this one has a heated bed(silicone 240V) 200x300mm.
In this design I added a fast interchangeable hotend. This hotend is replaced in a matter of seconds.(just two screws to remove)
I did not use linear bearings. I made my own adjustable bearings, so there's no play at all. To do this I needed 56(!) ball bearings.
Made one for myself and a second is made by my pupil.
E3D hotends are rather expensive, especially when I need a handfull of these things for my fast interchangeable hotend system, so except for the heatercartridge and the PT100 I make my own.
Heatsincks already done, heaterblocks to, busy making the heatbreaks now. I make these heatbreaks from M6 SS bolts.
What's man without a lathe...?
Made 12 nozzles, from0.43mm up to 0.8mm
2 attached pictures tell it all.
The green part is printed on one of my older printers. Many people will think, not bad at all.
But looking at the second picture, that black part is printed with my Ulti-Printer, judge for yourself. The quality of that perimeter is far better than the green part.
Busy making 12 E3D hotends for these two printers i just made. Lucky me I have a lathe and a mill.
To give an idea of the prices : Heatbreaks are made out of SS bolts M6. One box 50psc cost about 12€. Buying just 1(!) heatbreak from E3D would cost me 11.50£
Same story with the heatsinck, heaterblock, nozzles.
Now I have to wait to assemble and finish these hotends because the PT100 thermistors are out of stock...
Making these hotends myself saves me 32.4€x12 = 389€
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2017 01:47PM by chriske.
First drilled 1.8mm, followed by a 2mm drillbit. I advanced the 2mm drillbit veeeeeeeeeryyyyyyyy slowly, to simulate a reamer. The surfaces of my heatbreaks are not 100% smooth/clean but It works, until now no issues at all during printing. I have a 2mm reamer but to ream SS is a 'nasty' job. As a matter of fact don't like to work with SS.