FunBot a accidentally created reprap mini printer

10 and 10_5 stands simply for the inner dimension so measure your pipes with a calliper and use the one closest to your pipes dimensions.

Mine where moving tightly until I made a few prints and greased the pipes

Have you lubricated the pipes and tested your bushings before you try another size?

You should also be able to use 10mm rods and lm10uu bearings if that is easier,you might nead to do some mods to make the bearings not slide out of there sockets like lock screws.
lock screws should be easy to do by simply drilling holes where you want them and insert a screw and let it make the threads while you attach it on the printed part.

printed bearings are difficult but well worth it when you get them working

That bushing seams like something mike is using?
Maybe ask him on how well they work???

One thing you could do with various bushings is that you simply print a housing you know fits tighly in my design where you slide in the bushings you ordered.

One last thing you also could do to compensate for variations on printers output on the bushings if they are to tight and loose in there socket is to scale them up slightly in slic3r
increase the scale with 0.2 and see how they fit?
Should now be tight in the socket and a bit looser on the rod

I use bronze bushings on Funbot #1, love them.

Which ones did you use? And how did you fit them?


BTW: I just stumbled upon this thing, and it reminded me of the Funbot.
I wonder if it is any good. The price is interesting:
[www.aliexpress.com]

No, I won't buy one, I'm just curious.
I like the handle at the top, but I have no idea where they'll put the filament spool.

I'm in the U.S. so I used 3/8" rods and oilite bronze bushings. They can be purchased through Fastenal.com or Servocity.com for fairly cheap.

Fastenal - Bronze Flanged Sleeve Bearings

Servocity - bronze bushings

And I made a remix where I made bronze bushings to LM10UU adapters. The open scad file can be found there and adjusted to your needs.

Thingiverse Funbot U.S. 3/8" version

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/16/2015 10:15AM by madmike8.

Quote
uhrheber
Which ones did you use? And how did you fit them?


BTW: I just stumbled upon this thing, and it reminded me of the Funbot.
I wonder if it is any good. The price is interesting:
[www.aliexpress.com]

No, I won't buy one, I'm just curious.
I like the handle at the top, but I have no idea where they'll put the filament spool.

I also posted that Chinese clone of my bot on the thing page
Looks pretty sweet anyway and I don't mind

First video of the pro in action

[youtu.be]

its first ever print


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/17/2015 08:14AM by Cliff Mellangård.

I like the design of the Funbot pro, it's straightforward and self-explanatory.

But: On one hand I like the easy to mount edge connectors, they seem to make the building of the box a piece of cake, but on the other hand they prevent you from closing the housing completely.
And when I'm already building a cube, why not giving it a lid and a plexiglass door?

About the threaded rods that you talked about in the video:
I also bought standard threaded rods (but stainless steel), and I'm not happy with them. Too much backlash.
While looking at the z-axis carriage of the Funbot i1, I noticed that there might be enough space to integrate a backlash prevention, maybe similar to this one: [www.thingiverse.com]

What do you think?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/19/2015 04:49AM by uhrheber.

Its going to be partially enclosed and in my plans but to early to show now.
Yes it could work
Iam going to revisit the funbot and do the i2 that will have a bunch of improvements later this year
If you redo this piece with backlash let me know and post it to thingiverse
Iam gratefull for all help I can get

The thing is, I'm not happy with the standard threaded rods and nuts, so I bought one of the popular trapezoidal lead screws with copper nut from Aliexpress.
[www.aliexpress.com]

It runs smoothly, but has a high backlash. I think that these nuts are meant to be pressed in a precise hole, so their diameter shrinks and the backlash reduces.
It seems to be also possible to tilt the nut, by putting washers below the mounting screws. If you tilt it, the backlash nearly vanishes.
And the vertical alignement comes from the rods, anyways.

In any case it's likely that I'll modify the Z carriage to fit this nut, better two of them. I read in some cnc forums that it's common for cnc machines to just use two nuts and adjust them for minimal backlash manually. You'll have to readjust this here and there, but this is a 3D printer that uses minimal forces, not a heavy metal cnc machine, so it's likely that readjustment will never be necessary.

Why does everybody draw the Igus bushings with 3 outer rims?
The ones I know have 2 grooves instead, so they can be fastened with clips:
[www.igus.eu]

I also ordered a leadscrew with nut but they sent me a 6mm smooth rod instead lmao.
So I cant say how they should be

I might go offline for a while because iam moving to a new apartment soon.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/22/2015 03:07PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Cliff,

is the source file for the Z-carriage available?
I got hold of an Igus anti-backlash nut, that I want to integrate.
Also, I'd like to integrate the bronze bushings directly, without having to print lm10 adapters.

Sadly so do I use tinkercad the free cad prg that exports and edits stl files.
You could always use that to edit the files.

Iam on my way to move to a new place and have most of the stuff in storage and will have a hard time with most updates for a while.
As soon as I have settled in my new apartment so will I do a larger overhaul of almost all files and adapt for more variations.

I hope I will be able to get going with all these stuff as soon as possible as the funbot revision 2 do I have plans on with leadscrews with bronze nuts and more ordinary bearings for it