FunBot a accidentally created reprap mini printer

Made a little progress today. I got the aluminum plates drilled. Screwed things together to get a feel for it. Have a look, and tell me what you think...

Cliff, your build instruction videos are spot on and a big help.









Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/20/2015 08:25PM by madmike8.

I think its cool and maybe a bit thick plate you found
If I had a workshop and the same tools as you so would I probably do something similar
Iam thinking about looking for a company here nearby that could cut some aluminium plates for me
The x axis looks a bit long and could make your x carriage extremely miss aligned at the far end ???
I would recommend you to cut some of it off to be sure
Its very fun to see wath others do with the design I do so keep posting pictures of the progress
Iam going to upload to modified pieces today and one of them is the main z carriage that I added the function to use a adjustement screw to finetine the endstop for the z axis.
Very simple and works as it should and also the adjustement holes to stiffen the x carriage is on them but neads to be drilled up with a 2.5 mm screw if you use them.
I recommend 8-10 mm long m3 screws for them and maybe a bit longer for the z carriage adjuster.

Iam currently printing and printing to find new flaws to fix on the design and the main problem is old and hard to solve with a mk8 direct drive extruder,its some of the spols for filament have some weird material on the spols that make them rotate very hard on my spol holder
It will then lift the nozzle with 0.2-0.6 mm and give artefacts when this happens.

PS...........
Thanks mike for the feedback on the build guide and it feels great that my hard effort with my limited budget works

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/21/2015 07:51AM by Cliff Mellangård.

Here is my first attempt at an extruder holder.







And I made some feet that screw on the longer M3 screws that stick out underneath.
Remixed from a table foot scad. Thingiverse - Table Foot
It's made to seat an o-ring in it.


Made a larger opening on top to clear the nut.




Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2015 05:03PM by madmike8.

Great upgrades mike and I like them
Intresting extruder solution
I nead to test that when I get some time over
iam on my way to upload the latest marlin release with all funbot settings so its easier to get started also
Its for the mk8 but easy for you to change

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2015 05:42PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Basically, I made a plate that mounted over the spool plates that extends out and mounts the extruder at a 45 degree angle. I'm not sure how well this is going to work. It should be basically in the same plane as the hotend, so maybe the bowden tube won't twist. I've got to make a hotend holder first.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2015 06:35PM by madmike8.

Looking forward to it and I have a all metal one to test your design with
I have it left from when I bought the wrong one for my delta

I've started wiring a bit on it. I'm still waiting on my 5mm x 5mm coupler, and I need to order the smart LCD. Hopefully in a couple weeks I'll have this thing moving.

Sounds great mike
I have uploaded the first beta release of marlin for the funbot also.
Should get you started faster when you have your parts
I have got 4 weeks of work at a factory where I will work 6 day weeks and its a pain but will give me neaded funds for the project

Hey, is the LCD stuff included in the Marlin files, and did you create a custom Funbot logo for the LCD?

Got the hot end and fan mounted. I have the steppers mounted correctly and the belt on the X axis. I also got the Z axis threaded rod cut down and the Y axis tubes.

That Bowden solution looks very nice
Please let me know when the files are released so will I download and test it also
But will probably take a while as iam swamped with work
I should complain as its money in the bank
But the working hours make me so tired that I don't get much done during this time

Iam also thinking about a better endstop solution as I also want the same thing as you that I want the bushings centered in the sockest in height on the z axis.
But couldt think of a good solution to attach them then the old trusted prusa version.
I added a small update to the z axis piece that I haven't uploaded yet so you can use a adjustable screw to tune the endstop triggering that will solve some of the problem.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/25/2015 04:02PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Yes its a all go version in the marlin I uploaded
The only thing there is that you nead to remember that the hotend fan behaves like a print cooler and is controlled in slic3r now.
So you don't forget to start the fan in there and get a clogged nozzle
I love the new marlin logo so I never made a lcd logo

Well, I've gotten a bit of the wiring done, and the firmware loaded on the arduino. I got the LCD and 5mm coupler in, so I got those installed. Cliff can you post some closeups of your end stop mounting?

Here's pics...

Doh, I can't find my ptfe tubing... So I had to order more...

Left to do list
I need to figure out my endstop mounting
Wire endstops
Put connector on thermistor wires
Add 2.1mm power plug and on/off switch (I'm using a external 12v 8a power supply with a 2.1mm plug)
Install bowden tube.
Adjust stepper drivers
... Something I'm forgetting ...

Looks truly great mike
Wich endstop do you mean???
The lonely small hole on the z carriage closest to the x carriage is supposed to be drilled with a 2.5 drill and then simply use a m3 screw to create the threads to mount the endstop for the x carriage
I found a single m3 screw is enogh to hold it there
Have you checked my build guide on how I placed them ???
Sorry for the late reply I worked a 6 day working week last week and are completely exhausted after work
Iam working on some better solutions I haven't had the time to finish but will try this week to upload all the ones I have bin working on.

My endstops are not the same as yours, so I'll have to make them work... But that's the good thing about having 3d printers... Make what you need to get the job done...

Ice here today, so no work... I got the Bowden tube installed today... Finished up the wiring and fired it up for the first time... I'm having issues with the endstops, when I home the axis the motors don't stop when the endstop is triggered. M119 shows Triggered, but axis is still moving....

Ok, I got all my endstop problems worked out. All axis are moving and homing correctly. Hotend heats up. Wife says it's family time now, so I gotta stop. Feel good about how far I got today. I just have to calibrate it all now... And then Print!

Sounds cool mike
I would love to hear how it ends up for you
I have lately worked a lot on the printed bushings that is a mayor problem.
some printers do them to tight some to loose.
Some dimensions gets to loose and some dimensions make them micro stop at slow speeds.
I made a huge overhaul of the enture bushing design and its looking promising so far

I would love if you share your modified marlin code as a zipp file on your remix page for the ones that will follow your remix version
I would love to get my hands on your hotend attachment for the x carriage

Post some images or even better update your remix channel so I can forward your updates to my channels
I got requests for some more funbot news from that Croatian 3d printer blog

Happy testing mike

Prusa i3 Bowden Mount

It works really well with the Funbot mounting plates.

I used this OpenSCAD file for the grooved hotend holder and adjusted it to fit my MK1 Regpye Hotend.

I narrowed up the Fan holes to match my 25mm fan and made them pass all the way through the mount as a second set of mounting holes to the plate.







Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/06/2015 02:15PM by madmike8.

First print.

First Print Video

Prints Good! Didn't make any changes to your Marlin files other than to reverse a stepper because I was too lazy to turn the plug around, and set build volume to 155x155x120.
Downloaded the newest Slic3r and set the build volume, nozzle size, temp to 175 for PLA. Sliced a 20mm configuration cube and sent it to the printer.

20.1 X, 20.1 Y, and 19.3 Z so a bit more work on the Z.

I can't thank you enough for your work... This is going to be great for my office desk.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2015 12:16AM by madmike8.

did you change your z steps to 2267.72 for 5/16 threaded rods you use in us ???
I think the eu m8 turns to much and there for could you get a to low z height ??
It would make it stop to soon I belive with the print
And also so could it be as simple as the bed is to close to the nozzle in the beginning that gives such a large difference

And its me that thanks you
Please share any more videos you do with it printing

Printer still untuned...







Funbot printing Zombie Hunter Video

Printed with a 0.4 layer height mike ???
I printed mine with 0.3 and that removes many of the layer lines I see on yours
I tend to now days usually use 0.3 as a middle thing of fine detail and speed
So its the second object after assembly and no tuning mike
Great to see it works good for you

Z height is dialed in now. I just have to get the retraction right for the Bowden setup. The Bowden extruder setup is working great though.

Are you intrested in testing a gt2 bearing upgrade on yours to see how it works on yours
I found on my second funbot that it had huge problems to move smoothly on the x axis so I have investigated that a lot this weekend and made some small bits that are easy to replace but will make your printer work a lot better
The 624 bearings are actually a bit to small but I made a gt2 pulley cap wheel for them that seams to do wonders with making the motors work a lot easier.
I simply started to think like how it works on a bike
I don't know yet wath it does to the precision on dimensions???
But when I put them on so can I feel by hand that the carriages are a lot easier to move then before by hand
My trouble funbot also prints better with them on
The print for the neaded parts takes less then 30 min
Uses exactly the same bearings and screws and nuts in the guide

Ps...
this is also something I found they have done on the prusa rework that uses a bearing cap to make the bearing have a radius of 24 mm
My have 22 mm only .

Your build looks great mike
My 2 versions looks like something the cat dragged in as iam forced to use wath pla I have at home and from different fabricators and I have limited funds
But as soon as everything is reaching final state so are I going to reprint all parts with a single roll of pla so everything have the same color shade

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2015 04:46PM by Cliff Mellangård.

Post the parts. I'll print them out and try them.

I will upload them to the thing page today
Seams to do wonders for printed bushings so far

Printed them tonight. I'll get them installed tomorrow.

I haven't tested how it affects the dimensions so iam intrested in wath you get ??