SWIFT Solar Wide Functional Headlamp

HI everyone! I would like to acquaint you with my project. Hope you enjoy it!

I'm developing a wide functional headlamp. It has li-ion mppt solar charger up to 10W, 5V 3.5A or higher output and led driver - flashlight, supplied from 18650 li-ion battery, external li-ion pack can be attached through the plug. As you can see, everything is placed on the pcb. The main demand is maximum efficiency to all components. So, electrical part is completed and successfully tested as a result I have pcb board. Here's the link below with detailed description.
[budgetlightforum.com]



At the moment I stuck developing 3D model, a question in time. There are also a few issues to be solved.

As you know leds generate heat, that's why total power is limited down to 2W. I suppose it must be enough (about 360lm). You can look at the test video: pcb temperature vs lux, after 10 min the temperature had reached 80C, 1-2 hours - 90C max.
[www.youtube.com]

I would like to print a button using FLEX filament but I have some doubts about adhesion between different materials. Waterproof is important. Any alternatives as for the flexible filament?

The main filament must have enough durability, 80-90С temperature (on the 1st place) and weather resistance, compatibility with FLEX, parts may be glued (optional). My choice lies between Nylon or PET. I'm not sure that nylon meets all requirements, it has UV vulnerability, can't be glued, сorrect me if I'm wrong. But the main issue is about the material's glass transition temperature, heat must not deform the construction while the flashlight is turned on. So, what is the most suitable filament for this device?

It's gonna be an open source project, everyone who has skills will be able to create this device and customization capabilities are great. What you think about that? Would be glad any assistance, are you with me?

Edited 8 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2016 08:20PM by Reyden.

Printed parts always have cavities. High waterproof is unreachable without additional works.

Quote
Andrey_SSh
Printed parts always have cavities. High waterproof is unreachable without additional works.

Yes, as you said a surface would have minor cavities and it becomes rough, than silicine o-rings might not stop the moisture due to weak contact. Probably, the solution lies in using special glues (for screws) and silicone grease, they could fill the connecting area. How do you think, will it help?

Did you mean high waterproof for diving? There's no such necessity but a medium waterproof from rain and up to 2 meters is in priority. Of course I would like to make my device maximum waterproofed.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2016 02:02PM by Reyden.

"Connecting area" is not the whole problem. Soakage trough tiny cavities inside solid walls will take place. Heavy rain drops will produce high dynamic pressure during impact and small amount of water will soak inside.

For simple shapes it is possible to print case with hightened temperature and extruder feedrate. Result will be relatively sealed, but with some aesthetic flaws. (as gray tray there [forums.reprap.org])

Postprocessing with acetone may help also.

I think you need some experiments.

Maybe you can try the "acetone vapour" finishing of the prints. It might help with the insulation of the printed parts. At least it seems like this.

Quote
Andrey_SSh
"Connecting area" is not the whole problem. Soakage trough tiny cavities inside solid walls will take place. Heavy rain drops will produce high dynamic pressure during impact and small amount of water will soak inside.

What if to print with almost 100% filling? I read somewhere, that PET has very strong adhesion between layers, so layer bonding is superb. Assuming that a case thickness will be about 5mm.

Quote
NoobMan
Maybe you can try the "acetone vapour" finishing of the prints. It might help with the insulation of the printed parts. At least it seems like this.

Seems not bad, I thought about that but it could spoil the thread. Thanks, I'll take this method into account

Alright, waterproof is important but what about temperature stability? I mentioned before, there's a led inside, pcb temperature is rising up to 85 C of course not an instant. From that point of view, what filament is more stable and reliable? I know that ABS is rather good for my purposes. But other properties of PET and Nylon seems more interesting than ABS.

Does anyone tested FLEX filament on compatibility with the others? I would like to print flashlight button together with the case. Otherwise, I'll have to glue parts by myself.

Almost done with electronics, hope it's the final straight.


Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2016 10:02AM by Reyden.

About filling [hydraraptor.blogspot.ru]

105% filling needed.

5 mm is too thick and expensive.

I have no expirience with PET. Nylon is capricious material.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2016 08:48PM by Andrey_SSh.

Hey guys! I captured a small video on the days, it shows charging process from the solar panel through this device in a real life. Hope you enjoy it.
[photos.google.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2016 04:06PM by Reyden.