Solid fill on surfaces

So how is it that I have changed rolls of PLA and the new rolls are giving me solid surfaces that are sparse yet the previous rolls filled out perfectly. I guess I can change the Infill over width ratio maybe.

I'm still on SF41. Reprapping sure can be a frustrating hobby

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

The filament diameter must be smaller. Every time you change rolls you need to measure it and put the figure in Skeinforge.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

NelsonRap: The diameter of a single roll might even vary. So if density changes make sure to remeasure....

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Manufacturer of low tolerance Filaments PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG, TPU, PA, PVA,
[www.miafilament.com]
[github.com]

After thinking about it in bed last night I have come to the same conclusion as it felt thinner when I handled it but being in a rush thought nothing of it at the time

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

Yep much better now this roll is only 2.7mm where as the last few rolls have been 2.86mm

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

really solved the problem now, the brass hobbed insert was worn, it had a groove in it so was slipping some of the time. Getting some new ones made tomorrow in stainless steel

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

Stainless will hold up a little better but your best bet is to have the item hobbed from steel (preferable O-1 drill rod or silver steel in the UK) and hardened. Another option is 1018 cold rolled steel or A36 steel and use Kasenit or another hardening compound on the final form. This way the edges are hardened and will not wear as fast. This is only if you know or have someone with the capability. It will save you wear in the long run.
Just a thought from a hobby machinist.

Thanks for the advice will see my step son is making them for me at school with help from his teacher here in NZ, although I know a little about the UK steel as I grew up over there

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

I couldn't get any made locally so awaiting some from overseas. Hope this fixes the problem as it is getting worse without me touching any settings

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

Replaced the hobbed insert recalibrated twice now so the E steps are correct But

I am still getting my Infill too sparse. I have spent the morning double checking my E steps and they are correct. I'm still using SF41 as going to SFact didn't make any difference in fact it was slightly worse so please don't tell me to use it.

If I print a single wall cube with my 0.6 nozzle I get walls of somewhere between 0.6- 0.62 so I know that is correct I use a layer of 0.4 with 1.8 PWOT.

When I get to print something with a solid base the infill lines are too far apart using PLA with a width of 2.8 measured in several places with digital callipers.

Things I have tried knowing my E steps to be correct.

I did the following one at a time and then ran my test again

As a test raised and lowered my E steps 80 points above and below the correct setting
changed the WOT in Fill from 1.5 to 1.8
reduced the filament packing density setting from 1 to 0.9

I'm using a fill ratio of 50% and a feed/flow rate of 40mm/s

As I said it's not the perimeters there fine its only on the infill and none of the above fixes the problem. I'm really stumped on this one

I have had to stop printing before I pull all of my hair out.

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

Quote

If I print a single wall cube with my 0.6 nozzle I get walls of somewhere between 0.6- 0.62 so I know that is correct I use a layer of 0.4 with 1.8 PWOT.

No that is not correct. With 0.4 layers and 1.8 PWOT your walls should be 0.72mm. Unless you get that correct the infill will be too sparse because the threads are not coming out wide as SF thinks they are. You should be able to set the layer height and PWOT to any values within reason and SF should extrude enough plastic to make it so.

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[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]

turns out my hot end was cracked and leaking, it just came apart in my hand, bugger another weeks standdown

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

Just installed my new hotend a J head mk3b and it looks like my problems are solved, i'm even going to have to retune SF as the new hotend is so much more efficient than the original Mendel parts one

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Experimenting in 3D in New Zealand

If you just replaced the hotend on the same extruder, then you don't need to recalibrate. Your e steps per unit doesn't change with the hot end.