I am just gonna throw 2cents out there. If it were me, I think I would remove the bearings at the top of the z lead screws. Just let them float. That will eliminate the noise and from what I have read, z wobble is worse with constrained lead screws/5mm shaft.
Yep, that may be about right.Quote
Wow, this seems really cool. Like it has been out for a while but this is the first I have seen or heard. Seems like you have been working on it for 6+ months rklauco?
It's pretty good. I was thinking about using some screws to stiffen it, but when I tighten the cam shaft mechanisms, the construction is quite rigid. So from my perspective, it's solid enough - I don't see any reason to make it stiffer.Quote
Now that yours is together, how stable is the cube? Will there be any wobble or is it pretty steady?
To cut the bottom part for the spool holder was a STUPID idea - so please, don't do it The upper part is also questionable - I did it in the beginning, because I thought there will not be enough room for the filament bowden guide. And there wouldn't be. However, you can easily rotate the gantry upside-down and therefore shift the X/Y ~10cm down - that would allow enough room for the filament while allowing the upper part to stay solid. Funniest thing here is - even if you decide late, the new table from Ikea costs ~8USB around here, so no problem to change itQuote
I was contemplating NOT cutting out the center of the table, leaving the bottom and top fully enclosed in the nice table tops. Of course that would mean a different design, but I think it would wind up looking nice.
Standard (cheapest) lm8uu. The whole partlist is here.Quote
Are you using lm8uu or igus?
Simple answer - Weight. The mirror alone is 4.5kg. Now add silicone, heater wire, any construction able to hold the 4.5kg and it's clear. Another reason is that if I was about to use cantilevered bed, I would have to use at least 2 bearings on Z axis, probably not LM8UU, but LM12UU (or even LU). Add a VERY beefy motor to the list (as the small NEMA17 would not be able to move it a bit) and you will jump with the price and the construction problems, too.Quote
why did you go with lead screws in 4 corners vs just having 1 lead screw with 2 rods and a cantilevered bed?
I am following the same approach - cam shafts instead of drilling holes and screwing. It's especially useful now in the design part, when it's relatively easy to disassemble and reassemble the whole machine. If I used wood screws, I would have to buy new table 4 times alreadyQuote
The author evidently has a new version that does not require drilling holes in the table, maybe that is the updated version you speak of. Other than the author and you, I have not found others that have built these or blogged about them.
Thanks. I constantly work on it - now that it actually prints it's much more interesting However, I realized with no heated bed it's useless - you can't print 300mm part even from PLA without heated bed as it will simply not stickQuote
Keep going, I am interested to hear how well you can get yours working.
Thanks But comparing to folks like RichRap etc I'm just an amateurQuote
by the way, I love the sketchup, that is AWESOME !!!! I don't think I could do that that is a very impressive sketch. So far I have just modeled individual parts, never an entire machine.