prusa i3 box frame BOM

Hello Everybody,
I want to share my BOM to see if i missed something before i start assembling everything.
Wooden box frame : i will order one from a workshop
Rods: 1meter of M10 threaded rod,1meter of M8 threaded rod,1meter of M5 threaded rod,3 meter of M8 smooth rod.
Nuts,washer,screw: I bought more than needed (it seems I've exaggerated!!), will I need those grub screws?can i just cut long screw?
Bearings: 12xLM8UU, 4x608ZZ and 4x623ZZ. those are the default ones in the STL files in the official repository?cheap ones from eBay are fine?
5mmX5mm coupler to connect z threaded rods with the motors.
Endstop: 4 cheap endstops from ebay.
Motors,RAMPS,drives I will get from my friend.
Hot bed:also from my friend
Extruder: Official Greg's Wade extruder
HotEnd: J Head 0.5mm nozzle size 1.75mm filament from ebay
Printing parts: I knew someone who could print the part. i am supposed to give him STL file with quantities as in mentioned in this file:
[github.com]
for a start I will use PLA filament because it doesn't need a fan and as far as I understood it should be easier for beginners.
Morad

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/22/2014 02:43PM by EEstudent.

Hello EEstudent
If you want to cut some cost you can manage with 3 endstops assuming you drive both z axis motors with ramps, also it is possible to print z-couplers; bunch of stls over the web.. In my opinion I would include few 40mm fans or w/e to your build as if and when you want to experiment with other materials than pla you will need fan in most cases... also the fan improves pla print quality: atleast the quality I manage to create went to another level after just a simple fan installation.. Good luck with your build

I've order 5 fans.
I will use one on the extruder , 2 on the sides to cool the print and more one fan to cool the Arduino/RAMPS.
Fan should blow air into/out of the extruder/printing area?

Here are some photos of my recent i3 build.
It has fans built -in to follow the work piece so that on very tall stuff you get cooling where it is needed.
Also has LEDs 3W that follow the work as well.
Heavy duty spool holder handles the filament delivery well.
I only print in PLA and found that fans are needed and also a heated bed is good to have too.











If you are interested I will take some more photos of other parts.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

That looks wicked regpy

I see that the fan on the extruder is pointed on the printing head, the porpuse of this fan is to cool the head or the print?
In other printers it was pointed in 45 degree angle to cool the print.

Depending on what hotend is being used, some require a fan to blow on the cylinder above the nozzle to keep the filament from melting too high up in the hotend and causing a jam.

---

MakerFarm 8" Prusa i3v
RAMPS 1.4
0.4mm E3D v6 for 1.75mm

I've got mine to the point of powering on and your list is a lot different what I just used.
Were is the M10 theaded used?@ I just used M8 and M5 threaded.
The LM8UU's should only be 10, 3 for Y, 3 for X and 4 for Z.
I presume the 608ZZ are for the extruder, but a standard gregs only uses 3.
I can't see why you'd need 4 endstops, one per axis (3 in total) and if you want to add auto leveling just reuse the Z endstop.

Grub nuts have a small hole for use with a hex key, if you just cut a bolt down it would be a little tricky to work with and near impossible to get out. You could use a small M3 bolt, but it doesn't look as tidy.

Some worth watching out for is the wiki shows wrong lengths for the Y axis for the boxed version, make sure you use the github values it will save a lot of hassle.

---

My Reprap blog

jds-reprap.blogspot.com

Quote
JoeDaStudd
I've got mine to the point of powering on and your list is a lot different what I just used.
Were is the M10 theaded used?@ I just used M8 and M5 threaded.
The LM8UU's should only be 10, 3 for Y, 3 for X and 4 for Z.
I presume the 608ZZ are for the extruder, but a standard gregs only uses 3.
I can't see why you'd need 4 endstops, one per axis (3 in total) and if you want to add auto leveling just reuse the Z endstop.

Grub nuts have a small hole for use with a hex key, if you just cut a bolt down it would be a little tricky to work with and near impossible to get out. You could use a small M3 bolt, but it doesn't look as tidy.

Some worth watching out for is the wiki shows wrong lengths for the Y axis for the boxed version, make sure you use the github values it will save a lot of hassle.

Hi
I've added extra spare parts (bearings).
In Gethub and wiki pages M10 threaded rod is used:
[github.com]
[reprap.org]
there are minor differences some rods length so I will pick the longer one and shorten it if needed.

Quote
EEstudent
I see that the fan on the extruder is pointed on the printing head, the porpuse of this fan is to cool the head or the print?
In other printers it was pointed in 45 degree angle to cool the print.

It is to cool the print, the cowl that is on each fan directs the flow to where I want it. The extruder has it's own fan to cool the hotend at the top. The fans follow the work piece as it is being printed, so for a very tall piece the fans work well as they are always being directed at the newly printed section.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
regpye

Quote
EEstudent
I see that the fan on the extruder is pointed on the printing head, the porpuse of this fan is to cool the head or the print?
In other printers it was pointed in 45 degree angle to cool the print.

It is to cool the print, the cowl that is on each fan directs the flow to where I want it. The extruder has it's own fan to cool the hotend at the top. The fans follow the work piece as it is being printed, so for a very tall piece the fans work well as they are always being directed at the newly printed section.

To sum it up and to make sure I got you.
The fan on the extruder is to cool the upper part of the hot end that is not supposed to be colder.
The fans on the sides to cool the print.
thats correct?

Quote
EEstudent

Quote
regpye

Quote
EEstudent
I see that the fan on the extruder is pointed on the printing head, the porpuse of this fan is to cool the head or the print?
In other printers it was pointed in 45 degree angle to cool the print.

It is to cool the print, the cowl that is on each fan directs the flow to where I want it. The extruder has it's own fan to cool the hotend at the top. The fans follow the work piece as it is being printed, so for a very tall piece the fans work well as they are always being directed at the newly printed section.

To sum it up and to make sure I got you.
The fan on the extruder is to cool the upper part of the hot end that is not supposed to be colder.
The fans on the sides to cool the print.
thats correct?

Yes that is correct, however I am working on an improved version and will post photos after the weekend. All of this is pretty new, so a few changes are needed as it all goes together and is tested.
The fan blowing on the hotend section keeps the top end of the hotend cool, it has a finned heatsink in that section. Never had any jams using PLA with this hotend.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci