Bowden conversion

I am a newbie.
I have purchased a Geeetech pro c dual printer with mk8 extruders.
I think I want to convert it to a bowden style extruder set up to reduce the axis weight.
Will the mk8 unit support a bowden configuration?
I have read that I should buy a pair of good quality j-heads and ptfe bowden cables.
Just to understand, why could I not just remote the existing heater and nozzle using a bowden cable instead of a j-head?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2015 12:37AM by Chrismolloy.

You need a heatsink on the heat-barrier. Now your aluminum frame acts as a heatsink, but not with a Bowden tube.

Make sure you have a X-carrier suitable for dual J-heads ( or e3d-chimera etc..) before you disassemble your printer.
Maybe you have to print a new bracket or some holder for the steppers.

Then replace the heat-barrier with M6 push fit connectors suitable for 4mm PTFE tube.

Be warned that the so_called_MK8 extruder has not the best torque in the world, because of the big drive gear diameter.
A long Bowden tube will add friction which reduces nozzle pressure even more.

If I were in your shoes, I would print a pair of direct drive extruders suitable for the REAL MK8 drive gear.
It is hobbed and has a much smaller diameter= more torque and keep your dual MK8 extruder for spares. ( or sell it )
-Olaf

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2015 03:29AM by o_lampe.

Thanks, appreciated.
Do you think this will improve speed and reduce wobble enough to make it worthwile?

I started with belt tensioners on my Prusa I3 build. Also sorted out the worst linear bearings.
That helped a lot too.
Actually I'm missing the good print quality I had before I changed to a Bowden setup.
Dual color printing is fun, but not such a big step forward.
I never printed with PVA or HIPS as support material yet.
-Olaf

So you changed over to a bowden setup and print quality deteriorated?

If you want to print faster, you have to use Bowden, but the retraction issues grow.
Maybe flexidrive is the answer?
-Olaf

Hi guys,

Is this the extruder you have ? :

It don't seems to have a proper MK8 gear but any standard gear.
Through, the MK7 have a better reputation than the MK8.

If you want to upgrade to bowdens extruders (I prefer the word "feeder"),
try to install the feeders to reduce the tubing lenght as much as possible.
The much longer it is, the biger retractation you will need, so make it short if you can.
That's also important because you have a dual extrusion.
And the major issue with dual extrusion is oozing (leaks of fused plastic from the unused hotend on the part).
I tryed a lot of techniques to avoid oosing, and my conclusion is you need a Cyclops hotend,
to realy get rid of oozing while cooling properly your printings.

I wish this can help you.

++JM

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2015 07:27AM by J-Max.

The Cyclops ( and other multifeed -hotends ) ooze too, but it gets mixed with the filament "in duty". This can also lead to unwanted results.
-Olaf

Hi guys,

I don't understand Olaf. Isn't oozing what falls on the part from the unused nozzle ?
How is it possible with a single nozzle ?
Obviously it you have some oozing with the Cyclops hotend, it's probably a retractation issue...

++JM