Hex nut options for leadscrews

I'm currently working on sourcing the parts for a custom build and am planning on using leadscrew(s) to drive the z-axis. I've been looking at [www.roton.com] because of the relatively lower prices when compared to Mcmaster and the cut to length options.

I would like to use M10 lead screws but am having trouble finding a hex nut with a matching pitch. Most M10 hex nuts have a 1mm pitch instead of the 2mm these leadscrews have. Roton does offer sleeve nuts with matching threads but the round shape makes me doubt they will working in a trapped nut method to move the z-stage.

Are there any other setups I could use with their leadscrews and sleeve nuts? Or anywhere else I could source metric leadscrews from?

I am using the circular sleeves with my setup - they bolt to the X ends so they work just fine. If you're going to go the extra mile of using lead screws, then I don't feel you should introduce the error of a hex nut possibly shifting within its trap if it is not 100% snug. A lot of people leave the nut loose to act as a "release mechanism" if the head ever crashes into the bed, but leaving it loose enough to offer that protection introduces a bit of inaccuracy because the bolt may shift.

How did you bolt the sleeves to the x-ends? Roton has plastic flanged nuts available as well as steel as well as threaded mounting nuts and compatible mounting flanges but this would be a pretty expensive solution.

Use anti-backlash nuts!!!
Make your own nuts, threading a block of delran, or nylon.

Why are you using a rare leadscrew?

Find a leadscrew / nut set combination made by same supplier.

Keep in mind to run in leadscrew / nut to loosen it up
takes a lot of torque to move rider on screw fast!
esp delran or plastic anti-BL nut

I'm using the leadscrew on the z-axis and am not too worried about backlash because the movement will always be downwards.

I'd prefer to use metric leadscrews and that's where the issue comes in it seems, as the trapezodial thread shape requires a larger pitch than your standard m10 threaded rod.

Your screws are trapezoidal (as they call them - ACME) so you will never be able to turn a Tr10x2 (as you wrongly mention them M10x2) nut on a M10 screw. You need a Tr10x2 and you can find the hex version on e-Bay. The Bronze versions are something like 40$ (yeah, it's not quite cheap but there is a cheaper ones)... I'm watching for a while this forum and I saw many hobby enthusiasts that are calling the ACME screws M10 or the smooth rods (M8 or M10). It's absolutely understandable, but it's wrong in technical point of view...
[www.ebay.com] -> The extended version. For now I can't find tinier, but I'm buying them from my local hardware store...
Best regards,
Bobby

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2014 04:09PM by BoByS.

Quote
Marty56
How did you bolt the sleeves to the x-ends? Roton has plastic flanged nuts available as well as steel as well as threaded mounting nuts and compatible mounting flanges but this would be a pretty expensive solution.

I designed my own x ends that have a recess for the circular flange and three m3 holes with nut traps for the bolt/nuts. I haven't posted the design because it is for a completely custom printer design. I could post a picture if you'd like.

I also generally agree with your comment about not too worried because the movement is always in one direction. At one point, I actually had lift/hop enabled in my slicer and this seemed to become an issue. I still do not like to leave play in any element within which I am striving towards accuracy and repeatability.

Marty

Look here for Acme screws/nut's I have some Delrin nuts on there way to me $22 for 3 Tr 10 x 2 nuts which I didn't think was to bad?

Doug