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Help with cantilevered printer design

Posted by aEx155 
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
April 24, 2014 04:55PM
So here is the latest version of the model (with dimensions added to help gauge scale):





And a closeup on the X-axis and Z-carriage:



I managed to move the belt to align it with the X-rods to completely eliminate the torque on the idler end, which is not only mechanically desirable but also aesthetically pleasing IMO. I'm still trying to tackle how to couple an M8 nut with the Z-carriage, and that is the only remaining change the Z-carriage needs.

The X-carriage is next.
A2
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
April 25, 2014 12:47AM
You might be able to use only one LM bearing on each of the shafts of the X-axis, and increase the X-axis length, depends on the fit up.
If you switch the hot end to the other side to avoid the Z-axis lead screw you also might be able to increase your X-axis print window.
X-axis end bracket looks good.
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
April 25, 2014 03:49PM
Quote
A2
You might be able to use only one LM bearing on each of the shafts of the X-axis, and increase the X-axis length, depends on the fit up.
If you switch the hot end to the other side to avoid the Z-axis lead screw you also might be able to increase your X-axis print window.
X-axis end bracket looks good.

I currently have 215mm of exposed rod, so I get 159mm of travel with a 56mm wide carriage, which is just enough for a 150mm bed. I could gain 25mm of travel by removing one of the bearings, but I don't know if that's worth the reduction in rigidity. If in the future I acquire a pair of 350mm then increasing the print area to a full 200mm2 is relatively simple, as long as the X-axis doesn't sag.

Here is my first attempt at an X-carriage (this is assuming a bowden setup):



The three linear bearings are held in place with single zip ties. A second piece would clamp on the J-head extruder, held in place with two screws.
A2
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
April 25, 2014 07:09PM
If you have room, to counter creep between the 56mm span, add a cross member to tie the two half's together.
Consider adding a feature to hold a fan.
If you have the room, move the hot end closer to the center of the X-axis.
Might be easier to print if you move the two gussets flush to the side wall.
To reduce tie wrap creep, bracket deformation, and improve cinching force, radius the tie wrap groves.
There are two grove mount standards, consider designing a module to account for both styles.
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
May 12, 2014 06:12AM
Haven't posted in a while but development has continued.





Since my last post, I revised the X-carriage, taking inspiration from the Prusa i3 x-carriage. The bearings are friction-fit, and the extruder clamps onto the carriage via two 3mm holes. I also rearranged the outer frame to make it easier to mount the Z- and Y- motors, and the Z-axis rods now have holders to attach them to the frame.

There are currently 14 printed pieces; I forgot to add a Y-axis idler and all the joining plates for the extruded aluminum, but I think I'm really close to a final design that can be printed and assembled for testing.
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
May 14, 2014 12:43AM
I would like to see more rigidity for the z rods. Think the x and y are good to go. It will be fun to see this come to life.


ConceptFORGE
Wally, GUS Simpson, LISA Simpson, THOR Simpson, Sextupteron, CoreXZ
Re: Help with cantilevered printer design
May 15, 2014 01:07AM
Quote
nicholas.seward
I would like to see more rigidity for the z rods. Think the x and y are good to go. It will be fun to see this come to life.

Is this what you had in mind?



Rods fit into 10mm deep hole (previously 6mm), 8mm wide 45-degree gussets added, three 3mm holes for attaching to frame (spaced 30mm apart), circular cutouts for strength
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