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question about using a 24v heat bed

Posted by tanner331 
question about using a 24v heat bed
July 24, 2014 11:39AM
Hi
I am working on a Rostock 3d printer and I had a question about the heat bed. I am looking to use a 240mm round heat bed from Ultibots, but it is 24v instead of 12v, what would it take to run this heat bed on the ramps 1.4?
Here is a link to the heater for the heat bed
24v kapton heater
Thanks
Tanner
Re: question about using a 24v heat bed
July 25, 2014 02:56AM
If you can Handel having two power supplies

Replace the 11amp poly fuse with a thick wire. Plug the 24v supply into the 11amp ramps plug via a inline 24volt car fuse. Plug the Bed in to D8 as per normal.

If you want to upgrade to be 24volt only, that to can be done, but is a lot more work...
Re: question about using a 24v heat bed
February 16, 2015 03:48PM
I'm trying the same... How many amperes must be the car fuse?
Thanks
Re: question about using a 24v heat bed
February 16, 2015 08:07PM
That heat bed has a resistance of 2.4 ohms, so it will draw 10A @ 24V. I suggest a 14A fuse.

RAMPS is not ideal for 24V systems, because most RAMPS boards have 16V capacitors. But this doesn't stop you using a 24V supply for the heated bed only, and a 12V supply for everything else. Both my printers use Duet electronics, which can go up to almost 35V.



Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: question about using a 24v heat bed
February 17, 2015 06:44AM
Quote
tanner331
Hi
I am working on a Rostock 3d printer and I had a question about the heat bed. I am looking to use a 240mm round heat bed from Ultibots, but it is 24v instead of 12v, what would it take to run this heat bed on the ramps 1.4?
Here is a link to the heater for the heat bed
24v kapton heater
Thanks
Tanner

Hi Tanner,
+1 to what Dust answered.
Please note that the link you have provided is for a heater, you will still need an aluminum heat spreader and a piece of borosilicate glass. An alternative, simpler and less expensive solution is to buy a 12V / 24V PCB heatbed for the Rostock, which gives you the option of starting with a simpler 12V setup and upgrading to a 24V power supply (for the heatbed only) at a later time. There is no advantage to having a RAMPS board running at 24V for the electronics and steppers, actually imho it's a PITA and a major risk, considering the currents involved.
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