Any Sumpod feedback yet?

Emmanuel Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Didn't seen their new models... I'm wondering if
> they are sharing some source files or any
> informations
>
> (I'm interested by the rack-pinion they are using)

I have the later Basic model that uses R&P. I can post some photos if you'd like to see.

- k -

Quote
KelOfTheRockies
I have the later Basic model that uses R&P. I can post some photos if you'd like to see.

There is also some pictures on the webshop, but I'm looking after a supplier to buy the same R&P to play with

Thank you Andrew, that moved me on a big step, I am now getting what I think are compile errors :-
core.a(main.cpp.o): In function `main':
C:\arduino-0023\hardware\Gen7\cores\arduino/main.cpp:7: undefined reference to `setup'
C:\arduino-0023\hardware\Gen7\cores\arduino/main.cpp:10: undefined reference to `loop'

For the sake of completeness the spec is
Sanguinololu rev.1.3a
ATmega 1284p (1100 on the label on the chip)
Arduino 0023
Windows XP SP3

Cheers
Andy

I think those are because you have an older version of Arduino and a newer version of the gen7 package.

I have read that for Marlin V1 firmware I need Arduino 0023 and no later, I downloaded the oldest Gen7 files described as being compatible with Arduino 0023 and before and picked ATmega 644p board since that set doesn't know about the 1284. Should I be using the most up to date versions of Arduino and the Gen7 support v2.1 despite warnings about Marlin compatibility?

Sorry for all the questions.
Andy

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/08/2013 02:35PM by andrewp.

Andrewp;- While I have no qualms tackling the mechanical build and wiring, I too am new to all the software /firmware stuff, so keep asking the silly questions because you have an attentive audience, because no one has published "Sumpod basic for dummies" as far as I know!

Mine is going through the paint stage at the moment, and doing it correctly, with careful sanding between each coat is a mammoth task! The missis is already asking why the entire garden is MDF coloured.
I gave the bare MDF two good coats of sanding sealer from Toolstation, and am following that with their aerosol industrial primer and ditto gloss white paint. I have some old Ikea wooden dowels that do a good job of blanking off important holes, and small plastic rawlplugs that can be stuck into holes to act as standoffs during the painting stages.
If I eventually get bored with white then I will give it a vinyl wrap, and if the wrap takes the paint off when I remove it, then I will be looking for a tall building to jump off!

I have replaced the 8mm stainless steel bar with 8mm silver steel rod as it provides an accurate ground finish on high carbon steel, so should be better in lots of respects except rust (

The files and instructions to install the driver are here:

[www.sumpod.com]

Well fmg! I hadn't seen that link, for anybody else in the dark the line 'Sanguinololu Flies' contains a link under the second word to a zip with all the files necessary and most importantly instructions from think3dprint3d including driver installation.
I seem to have a successfull load to the board, not tested yet.
Thank you tom tom, you have probably saved most of my hair!

Cheers
Andy

Oops...those bars are 10 mm! No idea why I got 8mm in my head.

The bars on mine were a really tight fit, had to be hammered in and I wouldn't like to have to take them out again - just a heads up!

Sumpod now moves in all the right directions and homes driven by Pronterface. End stops don't seem to work other than for homing - more experimentation needed.

Andy

A good way to get round the hammering is to get the bar to hone it's own way in! To do this, get yourself some new bits of 10mm silver steel (which is accurately ground), or stick with the standard sumpod rods. face the rods off neatly in a lathe. This gives a nice edge to the end of the bar. While it is in the lathe, drill and tap one end of each bar M6 thread for about 20mm deep. This gives you the ability to turn the rod with a bolt, and also extract the rod from the blind holes if the need ever arises.

Next, at the opposite end to the tapped hole, take a small round file and cut 4 equally spaced cuts into the rod end, holding the file at say 45 degrees. this gives simple cutting edges to the faced off end. (They should look like tiny hammock shaped scallops with enough of the original edge in between each scallop so things are equal. This gives somewhere for the small amount of MDF dust to go as the bar slides into the hole. Remove any burrs on the rod end.

Fit a bolt into the bar and as you push the bar through the hole the cutting edges will trim the hole diameter to exactly the size required for a nice tight fit. when the bar is securely located at both ends, remove the bolt......Simples!

For the record, my new bars were cut to 229mm, 290mm and 316mm, which makes my 229mm "bed" bars 9mm longer than standard? They fit exactly from the blind hole in one support side to flush with the outer edge of the other support side, note that the Z bars can be over length if you want, as any extra can just stick out into the base cavity!