Threaded Inserts

I'd like to incorporate brass threaded inserts in my designs (M3), any tips on using on them and UK supplier suggestions for small quantities ?

Chris

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Scratch built MDF chassis printer
RAMPS 1.3 + RaspPi + Full Graphic Smart Controller
Pronterface/Slic3r/Marlin
E3D Chimera/Cyclops
Flex3Drive
PrintBite

I've used plenty of threaded inserts. There's no real trick, print a hole slightly smaller than the od of the insert, thread the insert onto a long bolt just a little bit, heat using a lighter/blowtorch and press into the part, wait for it to cool and unthread the bolt. You don't need to heat them up massively, just enough to soften the plastic.

We sell them in packs of ten over at precisionpiezo.co.uk

Idris

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{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.

To be used only when you need to screw/unscrew often. Most of the time self taping screws are better, if possible designed for plastic. Od PC, printers etc.. are a good source for all these AND threaded inserts too.

Avoid this non sense of making square holes to accommodate hex nuts. It makes the parts complicated and fragile, will drive you crazy when trying to put the nut and screw unless you have three hands. When you see that, you know you are dealing with a poor design.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

Agreed. I either design for insets, if he forces are high and the thread is used multiple times, or i just design the thread in the print. Threading ABS is actually a very valid option if the forces involved aren‘t to high.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2018 04:39PM by Srek.

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[www.bonkers.de]
[merlin-hotend.de]
[www.hackerspace-ffm.de]

I have printed screw threads a few times to much success down to around m5, you could probably go smaller. Works on any plane as well (with the layers or along them).

Also used threaded inserts from ebay which worked really well. Captive nut designs are also useful, and often work better. The only downside is that it slows down your printing output and inserts are quicker if making batch parts.

I try to use common nuts if I want durable threads.

I model a hex cavity and thruhole feature then press in the nut, it works like an insert, but is very easy to source.

If I needed to, I could print the cavity, drop one in and print over it like mentioned above. I try and design so that the nut is a slight press fit into the hex cavity and the force is pulling the nut into the cavity.

Installation can be as simple as sticking the bolt thru the assembly and tightening it up to draw the nut into the cavity.

To clarify the wrong use of regular steel screws and hex nuts in an assembly, here is just one typical example found in the 3D printer world: [www.thingiverse.com]

Here self tapping screws or even a regular Mx can be used. To 3D print the thread is useless and time consuming, taps are cheap and in fact not even necessary to tap. Eventually, a bit of filing of the screw will make it self taping.

Enclosed nuts are sometimes used in plastic parts assembly, but not like that. First, nuts are bigger, square or in strip form to prevent rotation and reduce the strain on the plastic part which is properly reinforced, NOT WEAKENED !

And that is the key point, it must be simple and strong ! So why make it weak and complex ?

To embed a nut when printing or by heating like for a threaded insert is OK too provided there is enough "meat" around. I do that too.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

I use them on my bits and buy small quantity from ebay.
I use a soldering iron to insert mine.