Duet wifi heating issue

Hi, I am new to Duet wifi and I have been using Ramps 1.4 for 2 1/2 years and the mks sbase for a while now on my custom built corexy remixed d-bot, but I decided to upgrade to duet wifi. I am very new to reprap and even though I have read the wiki like 20 times! I still can't seem to get things going right. I had an issue getting the bed prob configured, I got that sorted. Now I am having an issue getting the hotend to work, I don't think I am entering things right in the config. I got the whole machine dialed in except the hotend! If someone could look at my configuration and see if they can assist that would be amazing. I have attached a copy of my config, Thanks in advance Kevin

When you command the hot end to heat up, does the E0 HEAT red LED light up?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I am not at home right now but when I get there I will check and see, I will also post my firmware diagnostic results.

I took a quick look at your config.g. I can't see anything obviously amiss that would prevent the heater from working so it may be a wiring issue but let us know about the E0 HEAT LED.

A couple of observations though. I see you are using PID settings in M301. A better way is to tune the heater using M303 then enter the process parameters in M307 (instead of using M301). The other thing is that you set the active and standby temperatures to 200 and 170 using G10 P0 in config.g then at the end of the config.g you select T0. I'm fairly sure that this will have the effect of heating the hot end as soon as the machine is switched on, which may not be desirable. I usually set the active and standby temperature to 0 in config.g then change them in the slicer start gcode. The other thing I noticed is that you've used M106 P0 to set the hot end fan to switch at 60 degrees C but P0 is usually the print cooling fan. The hot end fan is usually P1 so you should use something like M106 P1 F200 H1 T60 (instead of P0).

Edit. May I also suggest that you post further question in the dedicated Duet section [forums.reprap.org] or even join the Duet3d forum [www.duet3d.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2017 03:07PM by deckingman.

Thank you for the input and I am sorry for posting in the wrong area, as far as the E0 heat LED, no it does not come on when I command it to start heating. I have gone over the wiring at least 50 times and to be honest this is the cleanest my electronics compartment has ever looked! I even labeled the wire connectors and have a Duet WiFi diagram laminated directly above the compartment to reference in the future! I will go over the config file apply the changes that you have suggested and I will report back. Also is it OK if I continue to post about this problem on this thread instead of making another? or can a moderator move the thread? If not I will make another in the dedicated Duet section, and I tried to join the Duet forum but when I try to sign up it tells me that the site is not excepting new registrations at this time. I have also attached a copy of my firmware diagnostic to this post if that would assist in anything.

I was going through the heater tuning wiki and tried to go through the auto tuning process, I figured it could give me a better starting point as far as the heater portion of the config. After imputing the M303 H0, I received this (Error: heater 0 reported error 'sensor open circuit' at start of auto tuning). I have tore into my printer and rewired everything even replaced the thermistor. I can not seem to find any fault in my wiring. and I also cannot seem to get the heater light to light up on the board I am assuming it has to do with the open circuit error. Any thoughts as to what this means or what could be causing it? I found this thread [www.duet3d.com] I am going to look into my VSSA fuse for the thermistor.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/17/2017 01:02AM by Kevin37.

Which revision PCB is your Duet? It's printed on the top. If it's 1.02 then the VSSA fuse is self-resetting. It it's 1.0 or 1.01 then it will have blown if there has been a short between VSSA and +12V or +24V. See [duet3d.com].

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

The board is a 1.02 im a little confused now! Lol. How do i check for a short?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/18/2017 01:43PM by Kevin37.

If you have a VSSA short on a 1.02 board and you are running firmware 1.19 or later, you should get a message in Duwt Web Control telling you about it.

What temperature readings do you get when you supply USB power only to the Duet?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

So I re-wired everything on the printer which took for ever! but, this was something I had been meaning to do anyway to make everything look more professional and clean. After doing so and testing the board for shorts and coming up short! I still had the fault error and the hotend would not heat. So I was looking at the config on the web interface and couldn't find any errors and saw in the corner Heater 1 fault (T0) I then remembered deckingman posting something about the last line T0 being selected, so seeing I had changed everything else he suggested already I just commented this line out to see what would happen if anything......BOOM that fixed my issue. Thank you all for your support in this endevor switching from Marlin to RepRap and Duet, without the help i would have been stuck. I am going to start my first test print and I will let you all know how it goes. I will also post any further questions in the Duet section! Thank you all again, Kevin

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 02:10AM by Kevin37.

Quote
Kevin37

.....................................So I was looking at the config on the web interface and couldn't find any errors and saw in the corner Heater 1 fault (T0) I then remembered deckingman posting something about the last line T0 being selected, so seeing I had changed everything else he suggested already I just commented this line out to see what would happen if anything......BOOM that fixed my issue. ..................

Sorry to disappoint you but that hasn't fixed your fault - merely hidden it. In your config.g you had set the active and standby temperatures (which I said was not ideal) then at the end you select the tool (T0). What that means is that as soon as the tool is selected, it will become active and because you had set an active temperature, it will start to heat straight away. So by commenting out the T0 command, all that is doing is not selecting a tool so it won't start to heat. However, when you do start to heat it, (e.g. at the start of a print), the fault will rear it's ugly head.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2017 02:47PM by deckingman.