Printy 3D printer working group Facebook

[www.facebook.com]

Mission Statement:
3D printer project
Goals:
1 Open source design
2 the Design has to be 3D printed and the size of the machine outside diameter is 200x200x200mm
3 low parts count
4 low cost
5 ramps/arduino electronics
6 NEMA17 motors
7 Rack and Pinion drive x and y axis
8 quality documentation. this means solid CAD models. Proper engineering layouts.
9 FDM process
10 minimal to no support material for printing
11 low cost linear guides. Printed or machined bushings. as much off the shelf as possible if round guides.
12 No open builds extrusions.
13 lasered parts can be used.
Inspiration the M3D printer, but as a printable design.with plotterbot inspired mechanicals

What's the point about rack & pinion?
In paragraph 11 you say: as much off the shelf components for the bushings, so why not use pulleys and belts?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2017 02:21AM by o_lampe.

Self replicating is a great hook and you get more engagement with it but I've not yet seen a 3d printed frame for a 3d printer which can produce the same results as a metal frame.

Inevitably once you've bought your first printer you either get bored or get into it, and seek to improve the output you produce, and you do that inevitably by using stiffer frames, fewer 3d printed components, higher quality motors/extruders/hotendsmlinear guides and more precision in the build.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2017 08:31AM by DjDemonD.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

There is all ready a "Printy"

Printy Update: An Open Source DIY 3D SLA Printer

[forums.reprap.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/18/2017 10:52PM by cozmicray.

200 x200 x 200 exterior?

Leaves maybe a 120 x 120 x 100 build volume

Save the frustration:

220 x 220 x 240mm printing volume $150

Anet A8 Desktop 3D Printer Prusa i3 DIY Kit
[www.gearbest.com]

A small print volume isn't really a problem, I strongly suspect that 75% of objects that are 3D printed can fit into a 100x100x100 print volume, but as with all things "bigger is better" especially when it comes to marketing. I have a micro delta printer which turns out surprisingly (from a received wisdom point of view) good quality prints for little calibration effort, which I put down to its small size and therefore inherently higher accuracy (less amplification of error in the build). I use it for a lot of printing which does not require a machine with a 300x300x460mm build volume to be powered up and heated, to print an object the size of a marvin, or a benchy.

Its the desire to 3D print a frame that I think is basically the wrong approach, its marketable and interesting but unlikely to result in a good quality printer. I like the idea of making a delta from PVC drainpipe, [forums.reprap.org] which meets with the reprap ideals of sourcing/reusing common parts, and will invariably be stiffer/truer than a 3d printed frame.

Heres my microdelta design the top and bottom parts are printed but they are substantial to try to achieve good stiffness and joined by stainless steel linear guides, which are obviously very stiff. Attempting to connect the lower and upper frame with 3d printed parts is pointless, as you'll need metal linear motion parts in this design anyway, so the 3d printed verticals would essentially just be cladding, not structural.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/19/2017 07:15AM by DjDemonD.

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Simon Khoury

Co-founder of [www.precisionpiezo.co.uk] Accurate, repeatable, versatile Z-Probes
Published:Inventions

You know cable ties get a bad rap...have you seen the bamboo scaffolding in China used to build very high skyscrapers...

So you can probably make a frame good enough by strapping some broom handles/dowel or whatever you have into a cube.
But you will need to strap some metal to it somewhere to fix stuff to, maybe you could get away with plastic.