Precision Piezo bounty
Posted by Moriquendi
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Re: Precision Piezo bounty September 11, 2017 11:52PM |
I doubt you need one for my printer...will it be as tidy as the one I saw on the BIQU Delta
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Re: Precision Piezo bounty September 12, 2017 12:06PM |
That's definitely a Force Sensitive Resistor, completely different tech, more delicate and less accurate. You also have to contend with fitting it over any gunk that ends up on the nozzle or heaterblock. Of course I'm biased but I've used FSRs and deployable probes and nothing comes close to the accuracy, ease of use and durability of piezos.
I have a fully integrated piezo delta effector that I use on my kossel mini but I don't think I could sell it at a price where people would buy it. The other problem is that because it includes connectors for the heater cartridge there would be liability issues if anything ever went wrong.
Idris
{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.
I have a fully integrated piezo delta effector that I use on my kossel mini but I don't think I could sell it at a price where people would buy it. The other problem is that because it includes connectors for the heater cartridge there would be liability issues if anything ever went wrong.
Idris
{Precision Piezo} Accurate, repeatable, versatile z-probe plus piezo discs, endstop cables, pt100, 50w heaters.
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Re: Precision Piezo bounty October 26, 2017 06:34AM |
Custom corexy based on this TaoBao model
Custom mount made from 3mm acrylic, lasercut on a cheap 40W CO2 laser, can also be milled on a cnc machine. DXF can be downloaded here.
From bottom up you need:
1)Hotend is held by a sandwich made of: smaller circle piece, U shape, another U shape (rotated 180 degrees), and another smaller circle piece
*Actually the first part, near the heatsink is 4mm plywood, I use a heated bed (110 deg), heated chamber and nozzle at 230 deg so I thought better safe then sorry. Later on my delta I used only acrylic pieces and no problems so far
2)Put the piezo on top
3)The larger circle piece
4)Put 4 M3x 35/40/45mm and 4 nuts. Pretension the piezo a little like in the DjDemonD's youtube guide. Glue the piezo with a litte CA glue on the margin.
The screws are 30mm apart. If you can, use a flat hotend holder with appropriate sized and spaced holes and make the whole assembly easier to fix.
To hold the bowden is the top part cut from another e3d v6 heatsink (the threaded groove part) held in place by another acrylic sandwich, and again topmost layer is plywood, but can be acrylic.
Running M48 on latest marlin I get 3 micron resolution/deviation:
And another photo of my "sandwich" groove hotend holder, this time on my Tevo Little Monster delta printer. Unfortunately smoothieware hasn't got a probe accuracy test built in. I used 626pilot's branch some time ago, but I've lost the config for it so no accuracy testing done on the delta.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2017 06:50AM by executivul.
Custom mount made from 3mm acrylic, lasercut on a cheap 40W CO2 laser, can also be milled on a cnc machine. DXF can be downloaded here.
From bottom up you need:
1)Hotend is held by a sandwich made of: smaller circle piece, U shape, another U shape (rotated 180 degrees), and another smaller circle piece
*Actually the first part, near the heatsink is 4mm plywood, I use a heated bed (110 deg), heated chamber and nozzle at 230 deg so I thought better safe then sorry. Later on my delta I used only acrylic pieces and no problems so far
2)Put the piezo on top
3)The larger circle piece
4)Put 4 M3x 35/40/45mm and 4 nuts. Pretension the piezo a little like in the DjDemonD's youtube guide. Glue the piezo with a litte CA glue on the margin.
The screws are 30mm apart. If you can, use a flat hotend holder with appropriate sized and spaced holes and make the whole assembly easier to fix.
To hold the bowden is the top part cut from another e3d v6 heatsink (the threaded groove part) held in place by another acrylic sandwich, and again topmost layer is plywood, but can be acrylic.
Running M48 on latest marlin I get 3 micron resolution/deviation:
Send: M48 Recv: M48 Z-Probe Repeatability Test Recv: Finished! Recv: Mean: -0.015469 Min: -0.017 Max: -0.014 Range: 0.003 Recv: Standard Deviation: 0.001298 Recv: Recv: X:200.00 Y:200.00 Z:1.00 E:50.00 Count A:32000 B:0 Z:640 Recv: ok
And another photo of my "sandwich" groove hotend holder, this time on my Tevo Little Monster delta printer. Unfortunately smoothieware hasn't got a probe accuracy test built in. I used 626pilot's branch some time ago, but I've lost the config for it so no accuracy testing done on the delta.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2017 06:50AM by executivul.
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Re: Precision Piezo bounty October 26, 2017 09:27AM |
So, I designed a mount for the Tevo Tarantula's stock hotend. You can find it here: [www.thingiverse.com]
Video of the unit working:
[youtu.be]
I also ran a lot of tests yesterday and found out it's pretty damn precise. Pictures attached.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2017 10:33AM by Heracles421.
Video of the unit working:
[youtu.be]
I also ran a lot of tests yesterday and found out it's pretty damn precise. Pictures attached.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2017 10:33AM by Heracles421.
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Re: Precision Piezo bounty January 11, 2018 04:25PM |
There must be something wrong with my setup...
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Over the inaccuracy of BL Touch January 19, 2018 02:08AM |
Have you got any of these kits still available for free for testing in order to make up units/test for new printers?
Just finished designing up a set for the Tevo Little Monster to suit the 27mm and 20mm discs and now looking to give it a test run. The design incorporates some heat shielding/insulation as well as keeping the piezo as far away form the heated bed as possible. Initial tests show on the Tevo LM running for 6 hours with a bed temp of 150 * Celsius and full enclosure with air temp of 60* Celsius the piezo is not exceeding 39 degrees (keeping in mind the ambient room temp is 32* Celsius to begin with). The piezo disc I bought locally seems to have plenty of trigger sensativity with the springs I am using for bed levelling (springs are out of AA battery holder spring for the negative side of the battery). The only downside is the lack of access to readily available 40mm M2 bolts, or should i say you have to purchase a pack of 50 from china for $10AUD which adds to the $50AUD for piezo board.
The lower part is attached using existing M5 thread in the bottom plate outside the printer and holds the piezo via a screw in cap. It is printed with only 15% infill with a full layer every 5 layers at 0.8 layer height and does touch the plate with the bulk of the part (except the thread), this ensures maximum insulation from the heat. The M2 bolt then runs down through from the top to allow you to set the initial pressures and height of the piezo triggering which of course can also be used to fine tune the sensitivity on top of any adjustment of the board (i.e. you can leave an air gap between M2 and piezo, or just touching or add a little pressure). With the stainless bolt I am using I am not getting more than a couple of degrees of heat coming down into the piezo chamber from the 60 degree air temp in the enclosed print chamber so no issues with heat transfer there.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2018 11:59PM by Redemptioner.
Just finished designing up a set for the Tevo Little Monster to suit the 27mm and 20mm discs and now looking to give it a test run. The design incorporates some heat shielding/insulation as well as keeping the piezo as far away form the heated bed as possible. Initial tests show on the Tevo LM running for 6 hours with a bed temp of 150 * Celsius and full enclosure with air temp of 60* Celsius the piezo is not exceeding 39 degrees (keeping in mind the ambient room temp is 32* Celsius to begin with). The piezo disc I bought locally seems to have plenty of trigger sensativity with the springs I am using for bed levelling (springs are out of AA battery holder spring for the negative side of the battery). The only downside is the lack of access to readily available 40mm M2 bolts, or should i say you have to purchase a pack of 50 from china for $10AUD which adds to the $50AUD for piezo board.
The lower part is attached using existing M5 thread in the bottom plate outside the printer and holds the piezo via a screw in cap. It is printed with only 15% infill with a full layer every 5 layers at 0.8 layer height and does touch the plate with the bulk of the part (except the thread), this ensures maximum insulation from the heat. The M2 bolt then runs down through from the top to allow you to set the initial pressures and height of the piezo triggering which of course can also be used to fine tune the sensitivity on top of any adjustment of the board (i.e. you can leave an air gap between M2 and piezo, or just touching or add a little pressure). With the stainless bolt I am using I am not getting more than a couple of degrees of heat coming down into the piezo chamber from the 60 degree air temp in the enclosed print chamber so no issues with heat transfer there.
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2018 11:59PM by Redemptioner.
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