Slic3r v1.2.9 over-extrusion issues

Just a heads up for all those who are using slic3r 1.2.9 (by default installed with the latest version of Repetier Host). Basically it over-extrudes when slicing thin walls like 1 to 2mm. The gap infill extrudes too much filament in many cases giving some artifacts that's visible on the outside and causing a buildup of filament making a mess of the top infill.

I've seen more reports from users that have this issue on this forum. Hopefully the issue will be resolved soon!

See this github issue:
Slic3r github

I'm using 1.2.7 which seems to be good and stable enough for me. Some would rather use 1.1.7. You can use the slicer manager in repetier host to add other versions to try and see what works for you.

Cheers!
Imqqmi

I'm having the same problem with top fill, and there also seems to be gaps between the outer and inner perimeters, which makes parts quite a bit weaker.

I crashed my 3D printed quadcopter the other day, and one of the arms snapped between perimeters, which i've never seen before (they usually cleanly snap straight across).

I always use slic3r 1.2.9 for spiral vase things, because the result is better than Curas.
But I also had gapping top infill when I print solid parts and tick all the fancy boxes like:
Combine infill every X layers
Solid infill every X layers

I thought it was my inexperience with slic3r.....
-Olaf

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2015 02:12AM by o_lampe.

Gap infill is not the same as gaps in your infill But I know what you mean. Slic3r can at times put too much distance between perimeter lines. I usually play with the extrusion width which seems to help. A gap between infill and perimeter and in the infill can also point to backlash.

Gap infill is the infill that's too small to use a rectilinear or honeycomb pattern, it should calculate the gap width and adjust the extrusion width to it to fill the gap. 1.2.9 fills this gap with a default width regardless of the actual gap width which over extrudes in most cases.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2015 08:56AM by imqqmi.

Thanks for the heads up!

I ran into this exact problem. It kept jaming my head/stripping the filament on an unusually thin wall object.

I'll try an older slic3r.

My extrusion multiplier is set from 1 down to .85. Between that and a layer height of .26 my 25.4 mm test cube was within .02mm of perfect. When your first layer goes down you can see if there are gaps between rows or ridges on the edges of the rows. Play with those settings until a smooth solid surface is achieved. My nozzle is a .4.

Same problem.

Nozzle literaly swimming into small parts.

Im gonna try 1.1.7, and come back for report.

Thanks

Totally perfect with 1.1.7

I printed it from SD card, so i have not tryed 1.2.9 from SD card, but, im tired of testing, so i will keep with Slic3r 1.1.7 and remote printing from the SD card.

I went back to 1.2.6 and saw a major difference in quality.

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e270889o
Totally perfect with 1.1.7

I printed it from SD card, so i have not tryed 1.2.9 from SD card, but, im tired of testing, so i will keep with Slic3r 1.1.7 and remote printing from the SD card.

I will try 1.2.6 then

Improvements from 1.1.7 worth change?

I've also had problems with Slic3r 1.2.9 and have gone back to 1.1.7. One example: I was trying to print Emmett's cube gear at 50% size, and got messy prints, in particular over extrusion on the top points of the gear (the corners of the cube). I could not find any combination of settings in 1.2.9 that made this go away and also tried with several different filaments. Switched to 1.1.7 and it was perfect.

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See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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e270889o
I will try 1.2.6 then

Improvements from 1.1.7 worth change?

Not sure what changes there were from 1.1.7 to 1.2.9. 1.2.6 was the version I was using before 1.2.9 and had been getting good results from it.

EDIT: Nevermind, that setting is there on 1.2.6 too.
Rolling back to 1.2.6...

I know this thread is old, but I was just fighting with this myself, and I think I've figured out why 1.2.9 behaves this way.

There's a new setting, under Advanced, called Overlap.
It creates an overlap between infill and perimeters for better bonding, and it's set to 15% by default.

I turned that down to 0, re-sliced, and got an output that looks a lot more like 1.2.6.

This would tend to be a problem when doing intricate prints with a high surface-to-infill ratio. And it explains why all of the miniatures I've been trying to print for the last few months have been failing! On the plus side, my printer got a LOT of upgrades as I tried to get reasonable outputs.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2016 02:35PM by maso.

At least one of the over-extrusion bugs has been fixed recently, see [github.com]. The dev branch doesn't seem to be working well (as of about a week ago), but stable seems to be quite good (currently 1.2.10-dev)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/02/2016 05:22PM by JamesK.

Thanks for this guys. I had installed the newest Repetier (1.0.2) and it kept clogging and stripping my hotend/extruder. I figured out it was the gap fill that was causing it. Set the speed for gap fill to 0 (disables it) and prints were working albeit without the gap fill. Installed Slic3r 1.2.7 as mentioned here and it's back to printing pretty .

You can use the 'Load Modifier' feature in Slic3r to change extrusion settings in the problem areas. It's located in the object's settings dialog.

p.s. I hate workarounds, but sometimes there is no choice.

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pmaier
Thanks for this guys. I had installed the newest Repetier (1.0.2) and it kept clogging and stripping my hotend/extruder. I figured out it was the gap fill that was causing it. Set the speed for gap fill to 0 (disables it) and prints were working albeit without the gap fill. Installed Slic3r 1.2.7 as mentioned here and it's back to printing pretty .

If your extruder is stripping filament due to a clog (in this case, back pressure due to over extrusion), the pinch wheel tension is too low. The motor should slip rather than chewing a divot into the filament. Tighten up the screws to push the filament harder against the drive gear.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Am having very high over extrusion big balls are formed on the nozzle.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2017 05:03PM by paul12.

I've been testing the new Slic3r Prusa edition (it reports version 1.34.1-prusa3d) that comes with repetier v2.0.1. It's usually a big deal to change slicer for me since I've spent a lot of time tuning and some variables my need to be retuned. But the transition to version 1.34 seems to be smooth. The settings files that I use for 1.27 also work for the new version. That saves a lot of time.

I can report that the over extrusion is fixed in this version, the speed of slicing is a lot faster and it seems the support structures have also changed from those pillars that sometimes collapse during printing to a more robust honey comb structure. It also seems to detach easier, especially with PETG I've been printing lately. I like PETG a lot and is fast becoming my go to filament. It's strong, doesn't warp a lot, is easy to print overall and layer adhesion is almost as strong as along the layer axis. It sticks well on the varnish I use on glass and releases reasonably easily when cooled.

Anyway, more testing is needed but so far it seems very stable, slices nicely and prints come out great.

I haven't tested any new features yet though.

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Kind regards
Imqqmi

NFAN CoreXY printer:
[reprap.org]