ABS Glue/Juice/Slurry evaporation

I have had some good success with printing direct to glass recently, using a squeegee trying to create an even thin layer on cold glass. However one problem is the time limit from pouring some abs glue onto the glass, Spreading time is very short so it can congeal very quickly. Making it patchy, is there any way to prolong evaporation..

Are you making the ABS juice too thick? Mine is mostly acetone with a few sticks of ABS thrown in - when I wipe it on it just leaves a matt film on the glass.

Try the ABS Puck method - so much easier and it can be the same color as your filament.

using each color of filament that you have, you print a small puck, about 40mm diameter.
When you want to print, make sure the bed is clean, drop a few drops of acetone on the bed ( I have a syringe full of clean acetone stored in a glass jar ) and then rub the puck over the acetone. The concentration of ABS to acetone should be a lot higher than that in a slurry.

Just use the correct puck for the color filament that you are printing with, and there's no color change on the bottom.

I found it in this page :
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/abs-slurry-puck-mallet

My abs mixture is quite thick, really I was looking for a way to silk screen a perfect layer without air bubbles, If the abs glue is smooth as possible you get a clean mirror finish on the prints. I will try a thinner solution tomorrow

white spirits turn the abs juice white.
Isopropanol will seperate most of the abs from the acetone mix into a globule, after drying is rubbery. I'm thinking could be useful for moulding nema gasket.

Why use a goop at all. Invest in a print surface as soon as you can, youll be glad you did.

Talked to a guy that prints directly on aluminum plate using a very diluted abs juice applied with a chicks square facial pad thingy. I'm going to try it. Glass and tape are a pain not to mention the weight.

Quote
elwood127
Talked to a guy that prints directly on aluminum plate using a very diluted abs juice applied with a chicks square facial pad thingy. I'm going to try it. Glass and tape are a pain not to mention the weight.

I use the ABS Puck method on my aluminium plate. Plate temp 85C and never had a problem. Advantage with the puck is that the 'juice' you create is the same color as the filament you are about to use.

I only print ABS now and I have got it down to a fine art. I have a series of small bottles of different coloured ABS juices. All except black which I have given up on. I can't find a good black.
I dissolve the ABS first so it is fully saturated in the acetone, I then separate the solid ABS pieces out and dilute the liquor back to 50% saturation. It works better more dilute. I have printed a lot on glass with kapton and more recently on aluminium with kapton after I fitted a new 24v bed.
I used to apply it with a small paint brush but now I use disposable cotton buds. I have applied it at various temps to gauge the effect. but I have settled on room temperature. The film only needs to be thinly applied. Higher temps result in too rapid drying and a poor finish. I touch up after every print. The bed needs to be wiped clean with acetone and juice applied fresh every 6 prints or so.
I have not tried the puck method so will give it a go.

You don't really need anything for ABS but a flat, thermally conductive build plate (1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate), a layer of clean kapton tape (I like 5 mil thick tape because it lasts for months), a 3 point leveling system that actually levels the plate instead of flexing it or the undercarriage, a bed heater with sufficient power to get it up to and maintain print temperature (105C), and an enclosure (a combo of clear polycarbonate and foam insulation board in my case) that allows the print chamber temperature to get to about 45C to prevent delamination/warping. A rigid printer frame and minimally flexible guide rails helps, too.

Here's a 210mm long, straight part printed in ABS with all the above, (this one on a raft):





The final part is 40mm tall, no warp, no delamination.

Here is a ~200 mm dia L-type timing belt pulley:



Video

No magical incantations, no prayer, no messy glue, no hairspray, and no ABS juice are required or used.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Just a note, I made the mistake of buying some "Dark Blue" painters tape for printing PLA on glass. It would not release at all. Pissed me off so I used my purple Elmers directly on the glass @ 70c and it worked great.

Hi The Digital Dentist.
It seems like magic indeed. Obviously the heat chamber is the key so I have to make a difficult upgrade of my 3D printer (RapMan 3.1). I already have the rest.

Just two questions:

• Did you notice the difference (I mean thickness, material, glue, etc.) between the 5mil and the "usual" kapton tape? I wonder whether shall I invest in another tape.
• Is the printing temperature important? If yes, then which temperature do you use for bottom layer and which for the rest?

Thank you anyway, you saved me from frustration since others wrote on the Internet, that ABS will always warp, delaminate, and create bubbles under the tape.

Warning: Pay attention if building the heat chamber. The extruder stepper may be too hot even without it. Fortunately I can set lower PWM on it, it is strong enough.