Manual mechanical levelling of build platform

Hello everyone,

I am trying to think of an efficient and reliable way to level a build plate manually and mechanically. The usual manual mechanism used is a set of 4 screws, springs and washers at each corner of the plate. Is there an alternative to this? Especially for a large-scale build platform (approx. 1300mm x 800mm). It will be quite heavy so let me know what you guys think please.

Thank you

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The (getting better) Noob

Zapadee zoopidee.

Personally, with such a large bed I would use 4 stepper motors, one at each corner, and write firmware to drive them independently for levelling purposes and together for Z movement purposes. Having four motors will also help with the weight. But if you are not up to modifying firmware, you might prefer a different solution.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Fix your plate to frame, level and move the hotend in XYZ.

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dc42
Personally, with such a large bed I would use 4 stepper motors, one at each corner, and write firmware to drive them independently for levelling purposes

3 points make a plane. 4 points make for endless frustration.

Okay now I don't know what is considered "heavy" for a build surface. I am just assuming that it would be heavy since it will be much larger than the usual build platform. The total mass of the build platform, beds included, would most likely come to approximately 15kg. Is that considered "heavy"? What is the maximum weight that a stepper motor can lift effectively with no errors?

Thank you

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The (getting better) Noob

Zapadee zoopidee.

Quote
cdru

Quote
dc42
Personally, with such a large bed I would use 4 stepper motors, one at each corner, and write firmware to drive them independently for levelling purposes

3 points make a plane. 4 points make for endless frustration.

True, and I use 3-point support for the bed of my Ormerod for that very reason. But the OP is talking about a very large bed, which will probably have some flexibility and need supporting at 4 points. Hence my suggestion of 4 rather than 3 motors.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Quote
3DPrintingNoob
Okay now I don't know what is considered "heavy" for a build surface. I am just assuming that it would be heavy since it will be much larger than the usual build platform. The total mass of the build platform, beds included, would most likely come to approximately 15kg. Is that considered "heavy"? What is the maximum weight that a stepper motor can lift effectively with no errors?

Thank you

A powerful nema 17 can produce about 4.4kg of force..... Translating that into mechanical force is the equivalent of saying how much is allot? For example that 4.4kg stepper can lift multiple tons if geared properly but it would be very very slow.....

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My Personal Blog. Build blog.
[engineerd3d.ddns.net]

Modicum V1 sold on e-bay user jaguarking11

Use a single motor and 3 or 4 screws all belted together. Using multiple motors is asking for endless hours of bed releveling.

If you can live without a glossy smooth bottom surface on your prints, you can skip the bed heater and power supply and cabling and most of the leveling/releveling nonsense and just print on PIR foam. You'll be printing on rafts and for the first layer just bury the nozzle in the foam.

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the_digital_dentist
Use a single motor and 3 or 4 screws all belted together. Using multiple motors is asking for endless hours of bed releveling.

Using standard firmware, that is probably correct. But with the right firmware, the use of 3 or 4 motors would make bed levelling before printing automatic. That might be a significant advantage for a printer with a large bed.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

The topic Manual mechanical levelling of build platform

Everybody is answering with motors, hydralics, micro processors, etc

KISS

HBP Quick Leveler
[www.thingiverse.com]

or
3 Points Leveling for Makerbot Replicator (plenty of support for big table)
[www.thingiverse.com]

or
Three of these?
LEVELING WEDGE
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
cozmicray
The topic Manual mechanical levelling of build platform

Everybody is answering with motors, hydralics, micro processors, etc

Thinking outside the box is rarely a bad thing! Besides, by "manual bed levelling", the OP was perhaps trying to differentiate between true bed levelling done mechanically, as opposed to "automatic bed levelling" that is mistakenly used when what is really meant is "automatic bed compensation".

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I think your biggest problem will be to "build" a plate that is "flat" enough for the first layer. Getting a plate within 1mm over a one meter distance will be a real challenge. If your plate is not perfectly flat, leveling won't do much good.

I apologise, I should have clarified what I was asking more. It is as cozmicray said, I am looking for a manual levelling mechanism. I.e. no motors or circuits, etc. Something to be done by hand in a simple and reliable way. The flatness can be measured with either a flatness measuring laser or a liquid leveller.

Cozmicray, can you explain how the levelling wedge works? How is it used to adjust the level?

Levelling wedge

In any case, thank you.

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The (getting better) Noob

Zapadee zoopidee.

Flatness can easily be checked the old-school way- use the edge of a steel ruler. If the surface is wavy and you can get a piece of paper between the ruler and the surface anywhere, the surface isn't flat enough, though with such a large bed you're probably planning on printing with thicker layers so more deviation from flat can be tolerated. If the surface flexes depending on temperature and as a function of your leveling mechanism, you're using the wrong material or it is too thin and needs additional support.

That leveling wedge has two pieces that slide against each other. As the screw turns the ramp causes the top and bottom surfaces to move closer (loosening the screw) or farther apart (tightening the screw). The top and bottom surfaces remain parallel at all times. Theoretically you could put one of these at each corner of the bed or at three points and you'd be able to level the bed. The problem is that surfaces are parallel, so as you adjust the screws to level the bed, you're going to cause it to flex because the surfaces of the adjusters are and remain parallel.

Adjustment screws and springs are a lot easier to deal with and don't cause the bed to flex.

You'd think that more deviance from flatness can be tolerated for this large bed, however, the requirement specs for this printer are damn strict and they require a maximum flatness of 0.5mm. So it won't be easy. The most logical solution would be to increase the thickness of the plate, yes.

I am not so knowledgeable about the levelling mechanisms so to me that wedge sounds complicated. I would probably have to stick to the adjustment screws and springs. However, I like the HBP Quick leveller. Looks nifty.

Thank you

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The (getting better) Noob

Zapadee zoopidee.