ABS PRINTING

Hi I've been having problems printing out ABS on a heated bed (110) with hairspray.

Would you guy's recommend printing ABS on blue painters tape?


Thanks in advance.

Printing on Knapton tape and Dissolved ABS in Acetone solution (ABS GLUE)

also i have has success with ABS GLUE straight on the glass, it cleans up nice

Quote
sAyin
Hi I've been having problems printing out ABS on a heated bed (110) with hairspray.

Would you guy's recommend printing ABS on blue painters tape?


Thanks in advance.

What exactly is the problem?

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Waitaki 3D Printer

He is probably having 'lifting issues'
its all about the first layer,
perhaps he is not printing with a brim,
or not printing at a right nozzle temp.

he also asks 'Would you guy's recommend printing ABS on blue painters tape? '

For printing ABS on blue painters tape
I'd say

no

like i said, i was using the knapton tape,
but... I don't want to waste knapton tape, although its cheaper than blue tape, I just use abs glue straight on the glass

Ive had good results with abs glue, abs juice or slurry amoung the names its known by but not for everything ive tried.
Kapton tape was the only thing i could get a newly printed extruder gear wheel to print on without warp.
Something about the density of the print i think.
Parts less dense, more voids or more complex shapes were fine on abs juice.
Ime using iust ghe tape nothing else like abs juice ot hairspray on top and find it sticks really well especialy with s brim.
The brim seems to keep a bit more heat around the printed part.

I bought a roll of 200mm wide kapton tape that fits my mirror glass exactly.
I find if you give it enough time to cool the part will come off but if you try while its too warm and pry it off you damage the tape.
The one im using at the moment has lasted over a week and ive been printing on average about 5 hours a day.
A lot of those have been small testing or tuning prints that have had to be repeated several times.
The tape is now starting to show divots and marks where i havnt been careful enough to wait for it to cool.
It sticks with abs so well it can be difficult to get the smaller parts off.

So so far its not been too expensive.
The roll cost about £25 or so on ebay. I think its just over 33metres long.
Ive only used 20cm of it so far. I did two beds worth and havnt used thd second one yet.
So thats a lot of print beds worth for reliable bed adhesion.

Gordon

HI thank you for the recommendations.

I'm planning to make ABS juice, but finding it hard to find pure acetone. Where would you buy your acetone?


Thanks in advance

Cheapest ive found is on ebay.
Just bought 5 litres as it was a fraction of the cost by litre.

Gordon

As long as you don't get the stuff that is mixed up with oil or fragrances as nail varnish remover it should be fine. I alway get the cheapest stuff rom the DIY market and it works fine.

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[www.bonkers.de]
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Thanks, I've managed to find pure acetone.


What method do you guys use to apply the kapton tape to the heating bed?

I use Pritt Power stick and i keep parts on bed like mad.
Just put layer on cold table, wait till dry and use your bed

I put the kapton tape on with soapy water.
Loads of demos on youtube.
Works very well, no bubbles or creases.

Gordon

You could switch to PETG. It hardly warps and sticks to glass without tape and goo.

Here is some PET info:

[forums.reprap.org]

It's been more than 4 months since I used Kapton or painters tape for my prints (have 3 rolls 200mm wide getting dust)

1. Plain glass from Lowe's ( 8 for 9 bucks)
2. Purple PVA glue from Elmer's
3. The "secret" level your bed to 0.1 from nozzle

I might have print failures to other things but not to warping or bad adhesion to the bed.

I print ABS on hairspray just fine.
Bed at 120° for the first 2 layers, then down to 90°. First layer at 0.3mm (everything else is 0.2mm) with 105% extrusion rate. And a big cardboard box to cover the whole printer. Sticks extremely well, but when the bed cools to below 30° after the print, the parts simply pop off the bed. Literally pop off, some even bounced off my printer.
If I print parts with a small footprint, I use a 15 line brim.

Blue tape no hairspray, works better then blue tape and hairspray and just hairspray on glass for me, but now I use neither, I gave that airwolf stuff a try and it works pretty good. When it cools down the prints start loosening up and it sounds like breaking glass, if the part is unbalanced and wants to tip without support it just falls over at about 30-40.

try smush your first layer onto the bed, you can use slic3r to slightly lower the Z height..

You want it just close enough to smush it onto the bed but not to close that it will not be able to extrude, will cause a jam quick smart.